I have a 1995 E300 Diesel, which I love more than life itself. I mean, I'd rather have this than any other car, period, end of discussion. Unfortunately, my financial situation is not the greatest.

So you can imagine my upset when I found out that the car was seeping coolant from the head, causing my (MB-Dealer) service advisor to tell me that at some point we will need to do a head gasket job on my 165k mile car. He told me the repair itself is $1500, but while we are inside we should also do the valves and timing chain. Infact, he said that they would not do the job alone, unless the other items did not need replacement. He quoted me $4500 for the whole job. He also stated it could be 3000 miles or 20,000 miles before we actually need to do this.

Does any of this sound reasonable?

Secondly, I'm trying to figure out a way to do this, because spending $4500 on a car is not in my budget at the moment. I might get some assistance from my parents, but I'm not sure. One thing I was contemplating was shoving the car into a garage for a while and buying something whose operative word is "runs" for $2k or less- maybe a retired Police Interceptor or the like. Fix it when I have the cash. Any suggestions on this?

Third: Is this milage wildly out of the norm for this car? I have always believed MB engine last until the end of time, diesels in particular.

Fourth: Is this repair even worth it? Should I tearfully kiss this thing good bye and break down and buy one of the new heaps of crap I hate so much?

Fifth: all of this was found out at the 165k dealer service. When I got the car back from it, late at night, it started, ran for about 5 seconds, and then stumbled and stalled. I managed to limp it home by constantly keep it revving even when stopped. As it warmed up the problem disappeared. The next morning, though, it was back again.

I brought it in to the dealer, and they appologized profusely for releasing the car to me in this condition, promptly issued me another loaner, and sent me on my way. That was last tuesday. I have been in contact with them. They re-replaced the fuel filter, the fuel check valve, the fuel relief valve, and god knows what all. They assure me this is entirely seperate from the head gasket issue. They have told me in so many words that they are not going to charge me for the considerable diagnostic work- which is good cuz labor is $150 an hour. They have gotten it to stop stalling, but its still running, to quote my advisor, "Like a drunken mule". Any advice here?

I seriously doubt the car needs a valve job at 165k. Is this a dealer, or independent mechanic?

Do the head gasket, have the timing chain checked for stretch (replace if necessary) and be on your way. Make sure the head is not warped as well. Unless your car has been neglected or abused, you should not have any issues with the valves for a LONG time.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

Okay re-read you post, it seems it was at the dealer.

Many of them have no idea how to work on older cars like this, and how robust these cars are. They are trying to get as much money out of you as possible. Rather than diagnose and repair, they simply replace everything. My wagon was subjected to this by the previous owner, and had a valve job and new turbo installed when its an almost certainty that it wasn't necessary.

Find a good independent mechanic to do the job for less, and enjoy your car for many years. One of my indy's did a head gasket job on my '95 E320 for $1100.00 at 150k.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

I agree that taking a car this old to a dealer, and then trusting their advice, is less than shrewd. Dealers are really set up for cars much newer than this. A well established independant garage will be able to give you more pragmatic advice.

I have no doubt that they are correct in that there is a leak from the head gasket, and if you're taking the head off, there's a whole heap of extra work that is sensible to do while you're there.

How much coolant does the car use? How often do you need to top up the expansion tank?

I did the cylinder head on my E300D about 2 years ago (for an entirely different reason). Then, the cost of the parts (including new inlet valves and refurished injectors) was about £800. I can easily imagine that at dealership hourly labour rates, you can end up with a bill like the one you mention.

I would say that as long as you're happy with the car's coolant use, and that the rate of coolant use isn't increasing much, then, keep running the car. You might also want to do an oil analysis to make sure no coolant is getting into the oil every now and again.

606 Timing Chains are not as prone to stretching as on previous models.

Consider GP's while the head is off as preventive maint.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I agree with these guys that the dealer may not be your best outlet here ... it's not that they don't know what they're doing or even that they're greedy, but they follow a certain protocol that 1) is not geared for older cars and 2) is not geared for frugality. Find a reputable independent shop and get an opinion from them before moving forward. If you post your location, or go to the "shops" section of the forum, someone may be able to recommend a good shop in your area.

I wouldn't start thinking about getting rid of the car based on what the dealer told you. My 1987 300D went in to the dealer service at 190,000 miles and came out with an estimate that said fixing the car would far exceed its value and it should be "retired." I'm guessing they had $5,000 or more worth of repairs down. My dad took it to an indy who did everything for $2,000 (he charged less and also pointed out that many of the things the dealer listed were unnecessary). My dad gave the car to me that year and I've put over 60,000 great miles on it since ... at 254,000 it's doing just fine.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

If it is leaking coolant externally and not into the cylinders or oil, then Bars Leak is your friend. (This may be controversial, so listen to everyone's opinion and decide for yourself.)

Hell, even if it's leaking coolant into the cylinders or oil, Bars Leak could buy you months or more of happy motoring.

I've been astonished at how will Bars Leak works on even seriously blown head gaskets. If your leak is external, Bars Leak may be a nearly permanent solution.

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1987 W201 190D

GML,
You have recieved sage advice, I do not know your wrenching level, but you have an extremely high level of compent assistance on this board.

I never pulled the IM or GP's but have just sucessfully completed with help of these dedicated enthusiasts.

I would consider that if you add Bars Leak, it has a good chance of plugging the leak. IMHO if your radiator is nearly obscured, it will possibly plug as well. Your decision.
I would remind the dealer that your car is a diesel not a gasser. The latter would be in line for a valve job at your mileage.

Best of Luck with your endeavor.

Gary

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Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW