for a 87 300 SDL
Without CUTTING THE rubber section on the oil COOLER LINES first
Does anyone know What size brass barbed Tee will fit ??

I need to put a Tee on a high pressure side to run to a centrifuge oil filter.
[U]http://www.dieselcraft.com
This seemed like the likeliest point for me to run off from without disturbing the rest of the plumbing. figure i can get a brass tee fitting and a couple adapters to run the line.
I could just cut the line and take it to match for sizes, but i would rather have the tee fittings and get it all done while changing the oil. measure twice cut once.
Thanks

ps sorry about the caps, kid in playing with the button over my shoulder

If you are interested I will be posting pics as i go - there is a handy spot to mount the unit right next to the ABS unit
Please mention my Name (David in Sacramento, CA) if you get one as I promised to try and bring referrals to them, they are local guys (Auburn, CA) and have what I believe is a great product. The Auto makers don't use these because they want the engines to wear out.

Why don't you tap a fitting into the lid or sidewall of the filter housing?

Spare us the conspiracy theories.

LOL, yeah, no filters, just an oil covered housing to scrape out by hand!

would there be any inside interference problems in either of the above locations?


also, which would be the "clean" side of the filter to draw from?

No conspiracy theories, these type of units are used elsewhere in the world, just not here in the states so much.
and it is a simple bypass filter-
no amazing claims of 100+mpg and the like where the government makes the pattents and their inventors disappear,
just the likelihood of cleaner oil for a car I would care to keep for a long time - and I drive 50k+ miles per year so makes the 3000 mile oil change difficult, wouldn't feel as guilty dragging out the changes maybe...

Nope. Its where I tap my bypass filter source.
There is no easy access to clean oil unless you tap a banjo fitting and the oil cooler lines are on the unfiltered side of the oil system too.

Not at all true. I have yet to see a car sold with one, here or elsewhere. Only on commercial/industrial equipment where its sometimes an option.

As I said, please spare us the conspiracy theory bull. Nobody cares that a few unstable people think the government is "covering up" physics defying inventions even though the reality is the "inventions" are nothing but scams dreamt up by con artists to take advantage of people gullible enough to believe in such claims. Modern examples can be the "Tornado" and any of the 5 million variations of the "HHO generator" or fuel line magnets, why hasn't the government made them "disappear" too? They all work just as good as a 100mpg carb, that is, not at all. Also, if a 100mpg carb is reality and we all know "plans" are commonly available, where is yours?

So, 5-15,000 miles using synthetic oil isn't an option? The factory OCI is 5,000miles. The 3,000mile interval is a marketing scheme pushed by oil change shops to increase business.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Just for the record -
I only briefly eluded to corporate planned obsolescence

But you must be really hung up on this whole conspiracy theory thing. My whole family grew up as dry-land wheat farmers in Arriba, CO. a little ( East of Federal Heights i believe. The Family also had a Gas and Service Station out there. To this day my dad is a diesel Mechanic / Driver up north in Cort Collins. Most of the people i know out there dislike any kind of conspiracy theory also, and most of the folks leave things the way a manufacturer designed it.

"Only on commercial/industrial equipment where its sometimes an option."
Yeah not really an option, as My Uncle, Who sold Caterpillar's for about 40 years has confirmed- most industries depend on consumables- ink for printers and oil and Filters for Engines- he said Cat knew these worked but they would loose a huge portion of their revenue stream if nothing "wore out". Filters keep just enough junk out to prevent catastrophic failure, but leave just enough junk in to "wear out" and need replacement. keeping the entire maintenance labor force employed.... we all know cars of the future are being designed to be recycled- not last forever.

So I have just enough disposable income not to care about the conspiracy- but to make every effort to make my Benz Better and Last Longer.

Which would Beg the questions -
"Aren't we both after the same Goal?"
And "Could we both stand to learn from each other?"

What I don't get is how you seem to reply as if I am here for your entertainment,
Frankly it is a little insulting - and I was trying to have a good sense of humor, pull your leg with the whole 100MPG thing.
Who cares? Let it go... but, let's leave the innuendo's aside please.
Either way i appreciate you sharing you knowledge.

And I wish sometimes I were a Little closer to my family in CO, but I prefer the West Coast, where more folks aren't afraid to "Question Authority". Stability and the Ability to Ask and Educate ourselves on modifying the "Standard" are different discussions.

Just don't reply with such disdain
("Nobody cares that a few unstable people")
It shows Your Lack of Respect.

Because we may Agree to Disagree.
Then we can still Respect each other.

dbdkemp,

I like the "Idea" of the product
(This particular unit has increased in retail price...
$300.00 USD in less than 6 months)

SOMEBODY has lost touch with Reality
(And they're in the Wrong Auburn)

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

No, you're confusing reality (Low quality manufacturing) with fiction ("planned obsolescence").

I'm not the one posting conspiracy theories.

So being able to run upwards of 400,000 miles with no major repairs, if properly maintained, is not long enough?

they still offer the same original product at the same price, the new higher price model has added an air pump to pressurize the clean oil return and make the return line smaller, only 1/4" NPT fitting needed, where before it was a 1" gravity drain to the oil pan, large hole and hose to route.

Now the "drain" can be run uphill to the valve cover, for easier install, same centrifuge filter, just 2 methods of plumbing and install.

"I'm not the one posting conspiracy theories."

But you are the only one talking about them, and you are "Spare Us" Speaking for other's who have not asked for your opinion, nor granted you permission to speak on their behalf.

planned obsolescence is not a Conspiracy Theory, it is an Economic Model.

seriously if you just must have the last word, then , I will give it to you.

EGO

Ahem... FYI

Please try to remember what you posted less than 24 hours ago.

x2. It's not a "stateside vs. rest of the world"-issue. I have NEVER seen a car with a centrifugal oil filter factory fitted. That includes all kinds of models from 1950-2009 I've had the chance to peek under the hood on/work on.

__________________
Tomas, Sweden
1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual
1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual

the 617 oil cooler lines are 14mm- or 9/16- not easy to find stateside. dont bother hacking up these essential lines, drill and tap the housing/cover.

FI- Have you extended your OCI?? how long do you run yours??

I change it once per year, which works out to 8-10k miles. Now that I have 2 cars to occupy my driving time, I'll start changing it every 8k miles instead of by time.

The Oil going through the Oil Cooler Hoses and Oil Cooler are not filtered. The Oil comming back from the Oil Cooler does not get filtered until it is returned to the Oil Filter Housing.

When I hooked up my By-pass Oil filter I drilled and tapped a 1/8 pipe threaded hole drectly into the center of the Oil Filter Cap.

I was suprised to find that the Oil pressure there is close to the Oil Pressure in the unfiltered side of the Filter Housing (I also drilled and tapped that area).
I think this is due to the Check Valve that is near the bottom of that long stem that attaches to the Oil Filter Cap keeping it under pressure.
This is a pic of the Oil Pressure (I do not remember if this is cold Engine Idle or hot Engine reved up). Under all of the Vacuum Ts is the Pipe Plug were I tapped the other hole.
Also I do not think there is room for bigger than 1/8 pipe threads in the center. (I drilled it on a Lathe so that it would be centered).



The other 2 areas where you could tap into the Oil pressure are at the bottom of the Oil Filter where the Oil Pressure Gauge hose goes or you could modify the Turbo Charger Oil supply Bango Bolt down there.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I replaced my leaking oil cooler hoses with hi temp (300F) hi pressure (400PSI) hose. I used 5/8" ID. Its snug, I had to use a hair dryer to soften the hose to slip it over the barbs. Two hose clamps were used at each junction.