i have the axle out because the boots are bad and need replacing. i ordered and got the boot kit for inner and outer boots including the can or metal cover halves for one side, so now to figure out how all this works. . . . .

i peeled open the outer can so the joint could be disassembled and now must press off the inner spider (is that what its called ?)

i have a 40 ton press so i don;t think getting it off and on will be a problem but, there is this button called a "stop buffer" that is swedged into the center of the axel in 4 places that i am trying to figure out what purpose it serves and why i need to remove and grind the 4 swedges open that are on the end of the axle. it appears in the service manual that i am to chisel this stop buffer apart by splitting it with a chisel. i will then ruin it, and the manual sez there is no replacments available. . . boy does this not make sense.

can anyone tell me about this damn "stop buffer" ? before i destroy it with a cold chisel ? ? ?

and thento add insult to injury, how does one seal the two halves of the metal can conver without the special gizzmaki flange roller or who has one that can be rented ? ? ? ? ?

tusentuck (ten thousand thanks). . .

davidh (the old guy in the frozen northland)

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused

bump, help !

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused

I wish someone would help you as I am in the same boat, both my driveshafts need new CV boots. I called a local shop about fitting the new rubbers on and his response was they don't bother, just buy new ones.
Money is very tight at the moment and I can't afford new ones, plus I've heard the remanufactured parts are inferior to the originals.
There must be some way of doing this, why would mercedes design driveshafts that are scrap after the rubbers are no good?

If you have some digi pics that might help with things.

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Current Rides:

2004 BMW R1150GS Adventure
2005 MB W211 E320 Cdi

Since you are attempting to do this with stock type boots. Here is a good link to DIY in installing stock boots.
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/





The cost effective and easier way of rebooting the "Halfshafts"/axles is using the Flexx type boots instead of using the stock type. You don't have to take fully apart the axles to do this job.

Pictorial by tobybul
Flexx Boot Axle Repair Using Cone


Similar procedure but in Video

http://www.youtube.com/swf/l.swf?swf=http%3A//s.ytimg.com/yt/swf/cps-vfl92380.swf&video_id=F17tFS6ofzU&rel=1&eurl=http%3A//www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D205346%26highlight%3Daxle%2Bboot%2Bvideo&iurl=http%3A//i3.ytimg.com/vi/F17tFS6ofzU/hqdefault.jpg&sk=I1vl3NvhN92lnVYi96pmh8ibIjeSVuVHC&cr=US&avg_rating=4.0&video_id=F17tFS6ofzU&length_seconds=159&allow_ratings=1&title=CV%20BOOT%20MADE%20EASY

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I am not advocating split boot as I would be shouted at. This is my experience with split boot, a $20 fix.

The inner boot was split and I decided it would be a pain to remove the axle so I decided to try a split boot. I bought one from Kragen which is not an exact fit, the large end is too big. I trimmed the large end down to make it fit and clamped it with a hose clamp. I remembered I need to put some silicon sealant to seal the end a bit. It has been 20K now and it is still going. I expect it to last for a long long time as the inner boot does not flex that much. The glue and material seems to be of higher quality than boots of yesteryear.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Thanks! thats very useful information.

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Current Rides:

2004 BMW R1150GS Adventure
2005 MB W211 E320 Cdi

Just so I get the right parts before I order, these are the Flexx CV boots from the thread link?

http://www.amazon.com/Flexx-Boot-CV-Flex-Standard/dp/B000I195SY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1240948999&sr=1-1

I think this is my best option to repair my car right now.

Thanks again!

__________________
Current Rides:

2004 BMW R1150GS Adventure
2005 MB W211 E320 Cdi

adding to the information. this is what i know. . .
the axles are not hard to remove if you have the right tools and if your car is not all rusty underneath . . . the little clip inside the rear housing is kinda a bugger to get out.

when you have the axle out and on the bench or in the vice, the logical removal of the metal cover is to grind slots across the seam at right angles kinda like a five gallon plastic pail cover is removed, and pry the metal cover halves apart prying little areas that have been slotted at a time. this removal would be only on the outside cv joint.

now with both halves of the cover apart and the outer one off completely, holding a large rag under the joint, and making marks or note where they joints intersect, pull the joint apart, removing and catching the steel balls in the rag underneath the joint. (works well with two people)i only dropped one.

now, you have the outer part of the joint in your hand, and the inner part is attached to the axle shaft, and it is pressed on. . . . you will need a press to get it off the axle shaft. (i am going to do that tonite) and i was told to mark both the shaft and the inner spider so you can re-assemble them exactly the same as they came apart, for timing with the innner joint when you re-assemble the shaft. you want to be back to where they were before you started monkeying with them.

now, slide the new boot over the axle to the inner joint (assuming you have already removed the old boots), slide the 2nd new boot on the axle for the outer joint, and the smaller new metal can half, and now. . . you will need a clamping do-dad to clamp (hold) around the axle shaft where the "ridge" is on the shaft, for when you press the spider back on, this do-dad takes the pressing resistance instead of trying to hold the shaft on the opposite end. (does this make sense ?

the factory book shows the special clamp do-dad that is a thick piece of steel with a 27mm ? hole, in the center and the steel is then split in half across the hole, then the thing is drilled for two bolts and nuts to hold it back in position around the shaft, (exactly like a bearing splitter) whew !

when i get mine done i will have the clamping tool do-dad to loan out for the cost of shipping. (i have a lathe and milling machine to make this do-dad).

i do know that rebuilt axle assemblys are available for around $100 but, ive been told that they are weaker than the original.

also, i have been told that the boots only that will expand over the metal covers , that are really flexable are quite a bit weaker than the orig. boots and a special tool must be rented to install them.

so, until tonite when i try to press off the spyder, and the results of that ordeal, i will leave....

more will follow for sure, maybe i can take a couple pix's also. . . .

davidh

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused

i pressed the spyder off the shaft just a bit ago. simple and not too tight of a press. it went well. i did need a spacer between the end of the axle and the press ram but it would not take more than a 1/2" pipe coupling probably.

i took a half dozen or so pictures and did shrink them down, now i will try to post them. they have a basic description on them. . . i will do more pix when i make the clamping do-dad... probably tomorrow.

davidh

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused

more

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused

When I did my axles , one side had a good bump stop and one did not. I was able to get the joint pressed off with out ruining the good bumper. I don't remember how I did it, but it is doable. Mercedes would not have put the stop in there if it wasn't needed, so I would suggest keeping it intact.
I think I used a plastic furniture slider and modified it to fit, to replace the missing one. Metal to metal contact on the ends without it.
I think it is important to thoroughly clean out the old grease/oil and the fine metal particles that cause the wear on the axles. That is why I don't think much of any ,so called, axle rebuild ,that stretches a boot on etc. without cleaning the joint. I think lots of brake cleaner spray works good with an air nozzle to blow the mess out of the nooks.
Maybe some of the newer split boots are better than they were, but I suspect they will never last as long as the originals.
Another thing I did is swap sides with the axles. When you get yours apart and clean, you will notice marks where the ball and the joint have seen forward pressure, If you swap sides, like I did, you get a "fresh" surface to run against. I did mine about 2004 and they have worked great since.
Rebuilding your originals is the best way to go ...the rebuilts are not likely to last 200,000 miles. My originals had 350,000 plus on them. I'm pretty sure they were original because I remember seeing a matching date to the car on the old boots.

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Diesel-guy

I have found that in areas that require very good washing out of old grease and oil gasoline is the best solvent for cleaning.

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Current Rides:

2004 BMW R1150GS Adventure
2005 MB W211 E320 Cdi