They did align it? as best as the could. They said that they could not get it into spec, probably due to worn "components"

If they couldn't make camber on the right side, the LCA bushing or the upper ball joint would be toast. However, if it's that bad, you're going to get some driveability problems with it..........definite shaking at discrete speeds.

Take a good look at the LCA bushing and the upper ball joint on the right side.

Could this be caused by a worn out idler arm, at least that is what I would call it. Seems like this and my vibration issue are more and more related.
It does not pull bad at all, Just a very slight pull. I could live with for now.

I really could not tell by the photo so I did not call it anything.... but if it is parallel to the pitman arm which is coming down from the steering box then that should be the correct name. And, yes, you can get multiple things with a little play in them that get aggravated at certain speeds....a resonance that is sometimes very hard to pinpoint...
Often the solution is to rebuild everything replaceable on this old a car ....

Thanks, I guess I will replace it all. On the 83 that I did, I did not rebuild this item, or the center link. Something to learn on each one I guess.

You're camber numbers are completely unacceptable. Unless you've got some worn out components, there is no excuse other than laziness to get your numbers within spec. The camber numbers should be 0 degrees +- .3 degrees. They should easily be able to get camber within .1 degrees. Go somewhere else. This place stinks. Sorry for the rant but I align my own cars and know what's involved and this can be done right if you are willing to take the time.

Scott

The idler arm might be NG, but it's got nothing to do with your positive camber on the RF wheel.

The chances are these old cars have more than one component worn out.
I totally agree with your post... but the FSM section on this (suspension rebuild) stuff is pretty intimidating.
JUST setting the toe in requires some real patience and rule following.

While its true that worn components may be the cause of not being able to get the correct camber, that small amount of positive camber IMO should not cause significant pulling.

The toe in is what I am concerned about. Thats way too much if its inches. If its degrees I suppose its ok.

That slight amount of both wheels leaning could probably be neutralized by adding some air to the right front tire.

Also ten degrees of caster is a lot. With that much caster it accentuates the effect of the leaning front tires.

Typically a benz with correct alignments will require constant pressure on the steering wheel to the left to combat the norrmal crown in a two lane road.
(Crown is the curve of the pavement which runs water off).

I hope the alignment shop checked all the FE components before they attempted to do the alignment.
Camber adjust bolt should be an easy check to see if it is at its limits.
Looking at the eccentric bolt plate at the lower control arm bolt: Bolt head positioned nearer the tire creates negative camber, turning the bolt away from the tire pulls the LCA in creating positive camber.

If it's at the limit then you must have worn ball joints, control arm bushings or something bent.

Your slight pull might be solved by swapping tires around.


What is the factory spec for caster on the 126?

Dunno but 10 seems a bit much. I would have said around 7 or 8.

I think you are right about that. If they they readjust his castor, it might make it so he can get his camber into spec. Its like one big triangle - mess with one thing and it changes another. Sometimes you just have to fool with these until you find the right settings to get you back to spec.

Scott

Its got to be degrees. The shop can't be that stupid. I think factory specs are 1/4 degree per wheel.

Scott

Surely, but you never know.

yes it was degrees, I do not have the sheet with me at work, but it did have the spec's on it I believe.