Took the 82 in for an alignment today. I understand very little about this.
They said that they can not get it in all of the way.
Here are the numbers.
Left Right
-0.7 Camber 0.3
10.8 Caster 11.5
.23 Toe .19

He can not see anything wrong. It is not out by much. As long as it does not wear tires, I am tempted to leave it alone.
If it wears tires, which bushings are bad?

thanks
Doug

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

take it to the dealer, they'll get it perfect.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Was the alignment done on a car with old suspension rubber parts or was it done after replacing the rubber bushings?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The upper control arm bushings are notorious for sagging and causing negative camber. (Meaning that the top of the tire leans inboard.)

That helps me some. I did UCAs last fall and didn't get a new alignment, the tires have worn on the outer edge now. So the last alignment was spoiled with my new UCAs and I need a new alignment (that last part I already knew...)

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Sadly Benz-less

Very glad to find this thread. Just started trying to figure out what do do with my 85 300TD. Has 175K - had it about a year and have put about 7000 miles on it. Drove well for a while and then a few months ago started pulling to the right. Noticed the insides of the tires were wearing pretty bad at this point also. Had it aligned and corrected some toe-out. But the machine confirmed a lot of negative camber. In fact when you just look at the front wheels carefully it's pretty obious they lean in at the top. The driver side wheel even has some cord showing on the inside while the outside looks brand new.

I've rocked the wheels back and forth and nothing clanks or even seems to move much, if at all. Just end up rocking the whole car. Is there anything else I need to check, or should I just go ahead and do the UCA bushings? How do I know if the ball joints are bad?

Source for UCA bushings? NAPA and other national chains or do I need to order online from specialty places? Typical cost for a set?

Thanks,
Mark

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1985 300TD 214k. Elsbett VO system + Fattywagon injection line heaters. (SOLD!)
1996 VW Passat TDI wagon 327k. No VO
Two white german turbodiesel wagons. One analog, one digital.

I did not replace any rubber bushings.

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

Mercedes might not be able to do a better job if it has the old rubber on it.
I attempted/did my own alignment and I wish my specs were as close as yours (with all new rubber bushings and replaced worn parts).

As off spec as it is I have been driving on all kinds of roads and speeds and it seems OK and so far no noticable abnormal Tire wear and no shaking.

I think as long as your Tires don't have a problem and the Car tracks well when driving it should be OK.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

car has a slight pull to the right. I will see what happens as far as wear goes. Already did one front end, Not really excited to do another...

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

But think of the satisfaction in knowing it will last a long time and not wear out the tires...
There really are no shortcuts on this.... do keep the toe in set regularly in the meantime..
you can do this yourself... lots of threads about it in archives...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Do you know if the readings they gave are viewed from some one sitting in the Drivers seat or the view looking at front of the car when it comes to Left or Right?

Left Right
-0.7 Camber 0.3
10.8 Caster 11.5
.23 Toe .19

Did they run out of threads for adjustment down by the Guide Rod and the Guide Rod mpunt?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would assume sitting in the car. They said both wheels in effect were leaning to the right causing the pull to the right.
Found an issue tonight, see the thread on my vibration issue, and see if that would cause it?

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

I was just curious as the Camber adustment down were ther Lower Control Arm is with the Eccentric plate/bolt does not have much of a range to it. But, adjusting there effects the Caster and adjusting the Caster with down by the Guide Rod had an effect on the Chamber.
The Guide Rod adjustment is mainly responsiable for the Caster Adjustment and due to a lot of threads it an adjustments there can give you a greater range of adjustment on the Chamber, but you may sacrafice the Caster adjustment (out of spec Caster is not as likely to cause Tire wear problems).

I ended up with the Wheels in a similar situation except that in order to get the Camber as close as I could (so it would not eat up the Tires) I had to reduce the Caster to the 7-8 range (around town it steers easier and still functions OK on the Freeway).
In reducing the Caster to get the Chamber I ran out of adjustment down by the Guide Rod (to reduce the Caster you shorten the length of the Guide Rod).
But, I in my case I suffered damage when I hit a 3-4 inch high Island on the Front Drivers side hard enough that it ruined the Rim on that side and cracked the Rear Trailing Arm on that side.
On the Passanger side I had to do considerable Beating to get the rusted in Eccentric Bolt out of the Control Arm Bushing.
So it could be in my case the Suspension Mounting Points have taken a beating; making it difficult to adjust correctly.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Sometimes the range of adjustment is not adequate to overcome sagging bushings (especially UCA's) and worn ball joints.

He's correct. You've got positive camber on the right wheel which is not acceptable. The maximum number is zero and it's preferable to have -.5° negative (similar to the LF wheel).

Why didn't they align it?