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#1
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If the washers DO go under the bolt heads, I am at a loss to understand why. I probably have all mine on the way you did it. I would say the "normal" way would be to put the washers under the nuts anyway. I wouldn't change a thing or worry about it, especially if you used nyloc nuts.
Good job! Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#2
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Congratulations on a well presented job, nice write and fantastic pics on step-by-step procedures. Well done!! Just one point to clarify regarding the washers on the bolts. As you can see from your picture before disassembly the washer either go under the bolt if the bolt goes first through the flex disk to screw on to the lobe of the shaft or axle/tranny. Conversely, the washer goes under the nut when the bolt goes first through the lobe of the shaft or axle/tranny. The washer always goes resting on the flex disk and not on the lobe of the shaft or axle/tranny. Here are pics of your flex/shaft before dismantling and one of my own flex that I need to replace soon (thanks to your efforts, write and pics it will be a lot easier for me). BTW, there is 6 grams of pertinent grease to go on the centering sleeves. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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![]() Last edited by whunter; 08-08-2011 at 01:00 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#3
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#4
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As long as the "self locking" feature still works, you should be able to re-use them. You can use some liquid threadlocker if need be. Maybe I'm not such a purist as Deltacom, but I would not remove and reconfigure those bolts. I say leave' em alone and find something more important to work on.
As long as those bolts are torqued down well and the nuts don't spin off, nothing bad is ever going to happen. All the side load is in the inserts. Besides, just how many of these discs were put on by high school dropouts at Meineke mufflers over the years? Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#5
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Very briefly, the six holes on the disk contains 2 sleeves (bosses) each. The outer one is “Vulcanised” to the rubber, the inner one is fit-pressed into the outer. When the bolt is tightened the washer actually pushes slightly the inner sleeve into the shaft/flange/yoke recess in the lobes and bridges the 2 sleeves to the metal disk thereby securing the flex disk onto the shat/flange/yoke. If the new bolts supplied with the new disk are Allen socket type of bolts, the head of the bolt is not wider than the rim of the inner sleeve (even the hexagonal head bolt barely bridges the 2 sleeves) and without the washer to bridge the 2 sleeves onto the metal disk the bolt is not securing the flex disk but only the inner sleeve. Without that vital support of the washer the bolts could shear off as it happened to your original one when failed the support due to surrounding rubber deterioration. Even the shape of the sides of the washers are important in which way they face, as one side is flat (facing the flex disk) and the other has rounded edges (facing the nut/bolt). The way I understand you installed the washers just under the nuts only, it means that theoretically you could pull the shaft and would come away from the yokes together with the flex disk attached to it (since those are the only bolts that are secured with the washers to the flex disk) leaving the 3 bolts and inner sleeves attached to the tranny’s yoke/flange and the same at the differential. Bolt without washer ![]() Bolt with washer ![]() Hex without washer ![]() Hex with washer ![]()
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![]() Last edited by whunter; 08-08-2011 at 01:01 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#6
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Looking at the pix from Deltacomm, he is correct in that you need to cover the bonded bit of the disc, whether it is with a washer , head of a bolt or nut doesn't matter. I forgot that the socket headed bolts they give you are so narrow.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#7
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Thanks for the pics/explanation. I was going to do it anyway, but it's good to understand the significance of the washers ... and I will pay more attention when I do this job on my 300D.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#8
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Nice job! You have also received some really good tips on this thread. I am assuming you inspected the bolt holes on both the tranny & differential yokes for any wear or damage from those flopping discs.
One more thing to note: If you ever happen to experience in the future any other drive shaft vibration, it will probably be the U-joint. These cannot be bought separately. There are 2 machine shops I know of that can replace them and rebalance the shaft. One is in Portland and the other in Atlanta. Atlanta is the more reasonable.
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![]() Don't Chrome them; polish them |
#9
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When I replaced my transmission, I didn't need to touch that big nut, despite what the Haynes manual said. Try compressing the shaft without loosening the nut.
I am able to compress the shaft without loosening the nut, but when I telescope out I am no where near the flange on the transmission. Thank you |
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