How is the driveshaft going to rotate if the wheels are blocked?

At least one rear wheel needs to be elevated and free to rotate.

No need to rotate the driveshaft if the transmission turns unless you want to spin the driveshaft for better access to the bolts. Blocking whatever wheel is on the ground would work.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Started this job today ... not going so well. First problem: I can't get the large nut on the shaft to turn. I did get it about a half-turn, but the tools I'm using are impossible. I don't have the giant wrenches so I'm using a crescent wrench and pipe wrench, both extremely heavy and will barely fit. Is there anywhere to buy the 41 and 44 mm open end wrenches, and are they really expensive? Having the right tools would make this job doable, I think. The Haynes manual says you need about two turns of the nut to compress the shaft ... is that about right?

I'm also having a bear of a time getting the bolts out of the flex discs, although I've gotten the three out of the rear that attach it to the shaft, and two from the front. I'm pretty sure I've broken part of my knuckle, but I guess better that than the car, right? I just got overwhelmed after 3 1/2 hours and went home. Ugh.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

BodhiBenz,

You need two wrenches like this for optimal operation on the driveshaft nutes: http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u714904

You can get them at Lowes, Home Depot, or your local harware store - they are around $15 a piece.

You can get big wrenches from NorthernTool.com - I have a 46mm open end wrench and it looks like a cartoon it's so big.

If you need more torque with the smaller handle adjustable wrenches, get a piece of 12" long 1" black iron pipe to use as a 'cheater'. Slip it over the existing handle for a longer handle and more force :-)

For the nuts on the discs themselves, I found that a gear wrench was very helpful as a back up wrench. It helped me put the most force to get them loose. Don't forget to douse them in PB Blaster beforehand.

If you are going to go for the full center carrier + bearing replacement you will need a 3 jaw puller to extract the bearing and a correctly sized PVC pipe section (i forget what size) to tap the bearing in.

Good luck - I did this two years ago on the '82 and Im already fuzzy on it.

Thanks to you I looked under my '85 and saw a small crack (big enough to see white thread) in my flex disc, so I'll be doing this again shortly. Thank you again.

Do you have the FSM? I remember the article on this job being very helpful along with the Haynes manual.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car