I've always got them out this way without heat. On ball joints I use about a 6-8' prybar putting pressure on the joint to separate. I then hit the outside of the fitting 3 or 4 times with a 3-4lb sledgehammer. Never had that method fail.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I agree with the tool suggested by Mo-Betta. Sometimes I think what happens is applying extreme end pressure to the threaded portion, especially with a hammer, can cause the tapered portion to bulge and make removal a next-to-impossible proposition. This is my suspicion on a ball joint that I fought for two days, not that long ago. I had to resort to drilling the threaded shaft to make the "walls" weak enough to break it free.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

If your letting it soak keep spraying it with PB. That stuff does work, if you give it time.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Just screw on the nuts. Torque should be 26 ft/lb if you have a torque wrench. It will pull the tapered portion into place securely. When you start turning the nut, you'll probably need to hold the threaded part secure using an allen wrench on the end so it doesn't spin as you wrench. After a few turns it holds and you can just wrench it tight.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

If you try a pickle fork it is important to use the correct size. The first time I used one on my car it was not the right size and I never got the joint to separate but then I tried a fork that fit properly and it only took 3 or 4 hits to separate. As stated if you push on the end of the threaded portion it can cause it to tighten in the taper but a pickle fork stretches the taper helping it to release.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

Ah, I did notice that the tops were allen sockets. 'Wondered what that was for.

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Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

Yes, the FSM suggests using a spacer to "set" the ball joint. I used an open end wrench of the proper depth. Bodhi... did that with an allen, if your new one doesn't have that.

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83 SD

84 CD

Ha! I did that just this past weekend and got frustrated as well. I used a ball joint puller (the pickle fork didn't do the job) and all of a sudden, the joint came loose! Tell you this much, the obsenity I yelled at a moment of frustration echoed in the farmlands surrounding me for miles. They come undone sooner or later.

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1980 300SD (Mr. Sparkles), 1976 450SEL, 1982 300D turbo, 1989 VW Cabriolet morphing into a td cabriolet , 1997 TDI Passat, 1996 piece of Jeep,1993 F150, 1990 F250 7.3L...i think that's it, for now.

Pickle forks cause as many problems as they solve. In particular, they tend to gouge the surface on which the TRE grease boot rides, ensuring a short life for the boot.

A pickle fork usually damages the boot, so if you can get a separator, that's the way to go. On the UCA tho, most folks are replacing the whole thing, so it doesn't matter.

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83 SD

84 CD

just my 2 cents worth, take a big hammer and hit it real hard on the side, it will pop out, works for me everytime, done many, don't use heat.my opinion

No UCA on a 124 (the OP).

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Wow, wish I'd been clever enough to think of that when I did my UCA joint, which didn't have the allen socket ... I used a c-clamp to hold the steering knuckle and arm together while I turned the nut a few times to set it. Oh well, my method worked.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

I had this problems on a friends 300D. I always use the sledge hammer to the side, but it wouldn't worked. so I got out the pickle fork, that wouldn't work. After 2 hours I got pissed, then I started to thinking... I know thats scary... but then I got thinking about what takes out a stuck bolt, an impact. Why does the impact work, vibrations, hey thats why the hammer works. I need something to vibrate the hell out of this....
Answer:


I used the chisel bit, and pushed the sharp part past the joint, and used it like a vibrating wedge. WHAM 2 seconds latter, DONE.

If i could get a pickle fork bit for the roto-hammer that would be an awesome tool.

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mine was pretty stuck on as well. did 2 nights of soaking and heat with a mapp gas torch. in the end, I took a grinder to the shaft, cut it flush, then used a big ass punch and a hammer to bang out the outer side. then the inside was easy to take off