![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I was under the impression that I would have to wire a solenoid into the driver door and there was nothing at the pump I could do.
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) ![]() |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
You need to find out somehow whether the S-class lock system is the same as the lesser-classes. Maybe someone here will know. Jeremy
__________________
![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
WARNING: One VERY wide picture!
Jeremy, I was wondering if you could help me on my install. Its a different brand of keyless entry. I feel I'm close b/c the relays are clicking when I press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote, but the vac lock is not working. I sent this to the alarm company yesterday, but if you can figure it out before them, I'd greatly appreciated. Their turnaround on an email is 2-3 days. Please see below: ![]() Also, the manual calls for hooking up the starter wire to Relay 1 Pin 86 and Relay 2 Pin 85 to it. Is this the starter wire below? I could not find any other purple wires other than this one: ![]() Thanks for any help! |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Don't make this hard.
Do it the easy way... Your trunk key will lock and unlock all the doors and trunk simultaneously, so dig out the harness going to the truck latch. I bought a $10 unit on ebay that came with 2 fobs (nice metal ones with lock and unlock symbols on two buttons). Mounted it on top of taillight inside the car with two-side sticky foam tape. The unit is about 2" x 3". Connected one output to one of these trunk latch wires, and the other output to another wire, even got constant +12 from that harness. Ground was easy to find in the area, and done. I did not bother re-connecting the harness to the trunk latch, because, I didn't believe this at first but it's true... once you have remote fob you'll never use a key in the trunk again, or in any door for that matter. Save your key for the ignition, that's the only place you'll need it. No wear and tear on the door locks which are famously difficult to change out... The range I have is great, nearly 100' from the car. I like the nearly silent operation, with no flash or honk and any bull**** that advertises your car to a shopping mall crook who finds your set of keys left behind... and goes hunting.
__________________
Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
$10 is a good price? I need to do another project. Can you give us the link if it is still available?
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. ![]() W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
very intriguing scott re not plugging the rear trunk harness back in. i wish i knew this before! i'm tempted to look back there just to see and photo what you're talking about. im sure it'll help others avoid the pain of removing the seat and working with those short wires coming off the vac pump
|
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|