Have looked thru the many threads concerning this type of problem, but have not found a solution. Trans will upshift at correct ~rpms thru 4th without vacumn connected to modulator, although hard as expected. With vacumn, will only make 1-2 shift. Any thoughts?

See if that gives you your Gears back.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

How old is the fluid & filter? Fluid level? And was the torque converter drained at the last fluid/filter change? Dexron-II or -III fluid in the sump? What happens if you disconnect the Bowden cable from the throttle linkage (should upshift very early for all gears)? Or unplug the kickdown switch (wire at right / rear of tranny)?

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Compress Ignite, that was my first thought. Not lucky enough.

GSXR, Fluid & filter were very old. Was last changed about 200,000 miles ago. Car is now at 450,000. Changed fluid/filter today. Trans is now shifting w/vacumn attached. Apparently filter was clogging. Fluid didn't look all that good either, but no crud/clutch material in pan. Deferred maintenance was not a good thing. However, it's now flaring slightly during 2/3 shift and flaring during 3/4 shift. I'll try reducing vacumn some. Would adjusting modulator clockwise some help?

Good lord!

However, it's great to hear that your trans is still working with 450k on it! That's amazing!

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Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

450K and still going wow!
Adjusting the modulator should help but I don't remember which direction you need to turn it. Someone will know for sure.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

I must be reading that incorrectly. 200k on the same fluid & filter? That's gotta be unpossible.



Normal change interval would be 30kmi. I can usually detect a change in shift performance after about 25k (it firms up, not as smooth). Can't even fathom what it would feel like at 100k, let alone 200k. Maybe the last change was with synthetic ATF, that's the only way I can see the tranny lasting that long with the same fluid.



Don't mess with the vacuum signal (i.e., don't fiddle with the VCV on the injection pump). That should be set per the factory procedure (usually, it ends up right in the middle of the adjustment range). After you set that, if it still flares, try tweaking the modulator on the transmission. IIRC, clockwise = firmer. Go in 1/2 turn increments. If the rubber cap on the modulator is cracked or leaking, it should be replaced. Also test the modulator to make sure it holds vacuum (use a MityVac).

200K between changes is way to long. On my 1st 123.133, I used to change every 50-75,000. That tranny was still good at 560,000 when I had to retire car due to tired motor and body rot. Changing fluid & filter is definitely key to long, reliable trans life. We ignored it on this 124 and now paying the price.

50-75k is also much too long of an interval, at least with dino fluid. With synthetics (i.e., Amsoil or Red Line) you might be able to do 50k safely assuming it's mostly freeway miles. I still change my synthetic ATF at 25k. Fluids & filters are cheap, it's false economy to stretch change intervals excessively. A tranny change is about $40 in fluid & filter, that's peanuts every 30kmi...