Decided to start diagnosing a hissing sound in the interior my 97 e300 diesel; everytime I would go left, I got the noise, everytime I went right, it got real quiet. Straight ahead, low speed it hissed kind of. Took off all belly pans, and it was immediately obvious. The rubber dust boot between the steering column and the firewall was completely torn in two and disintegrated. Makes sense. Now fellow w210 diesel (and non-diesel) enthusiasts, what is this part called and how do I replace it without disassembling the steering column somewhere to slip it on. Did the standard catalog searches, even Rusty's and I can't find a reference to it. Dealer item only? Thanks! It's amazing all the problems you find (catch) looking under the car.

Stuff like that usually is dealer-only, but if you find the part number in EPC it may be easier to find online. I believe that you will have to remove the steering column to replace that part.

#62 on your model. http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210020&M=606%2E912&GA=722%2E438722%2E600&GM=717%2E446&CT=F&cat=45P&SID=46&SGR=075&SGN=03

Marty (NHDOC) did this on his 98. IIRC it was pretty painless; pull a pin, disconnect linkage, etc.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks guys, I'm emboldened to take it apart. Still can't get that dang bottom bolt out of the dampener shock without removing either the water pump pulley or the tensioner idler. When I have more time. Wondering if it would be easier to loosen the whole WP instead. Hm!

On mine I can push the tensioner pivot arm down so the bolt is below the rim of the pulley and can get a wrench on it to back it out enough to clear the shock dampers bushing.

I've suggested filing the protruding end of the bolt threads off (~1/6") before dropping tension to members who couldn't back their's out far enough.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Is it the same procedure on the W123? I have a torn boot as well.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

The steering system on the W123 shares nothing in common with the W210.

I did do this job a while back. It isn't too hard. Make sure the steering column is extended and the wheel is locked, then loosen the bolt on the coupling and slip the end out and push it back until you clear the seal. The hardest part is getting the new seal to mount on the lip of the firewall - use some grease on it and also on the other end. It landed up taking me about 2 hours working under the car and inside the cabin to get it right but now the car is quiet and I no longer have a draft of hot air on my leg when I drive

It is a dealer only part but as I recall it only cost about $12.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I've never felt the heat on my leg, but I've had this "hiss" now for Years... I could never figure out what the hell it was. AWESOME. Now one of these days when I buying parts @ the local stealer I can add this to my list and save it for a rainy day fix.

FINALLY, I know what this hiss is.

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#dieselFLEET
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'97 E300
'99 E300

Here is one I did on the 85 300D a while back, and sure helped with the cold air blowing on my foot in the winter.

Not familiar with the w201, but must be similiar.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=213394

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Well, if this wasn't the easiest repair ever. Removal of one bolt from the lower steering shaft (from under the car) allows the lower steering shaft to be pushed into the interior of the car, enough to remove and replace the boot. As others have pointed out, the steering wheel needs to be moved all the way out. The part was $6.25 at the dealer. Installation is a snap; slip it on from below, collapse the wide end of the boot to feed through the firewall, then push in place from the footwell. I'm guessing the boot was made to stay stationary relative to the firewall, and the steering shaft rotates within it. When sufficient lubrication between the shaft and boot is lost (especially in the winter), the boot gets twisted leading to rapid deterioration. We don't notice it because of the belly pan under the transmission. I suspect a lot of these boots are torn, just like mine. Funny thing, Herb Gordon Mercedes (a large DC area dealer) didn't stock it, had to order it. But again, $6.25 and under an hour. Check your steering shaft boots, ladies and gentlemen. You may find that the engine did not get louder over the years, just the boot is torn.

Now if I could only trace my diesel drips. Replaced o-rings in the prefilter, but still have drips hanging onto all the fuel lines. Are the fuel lines supposed to be so hard? Time to retube it all.

Yeah, it is amazing how much quieter the interior of my car got after I replaced mine...glad you were successful with the repair and had less trouble than me in seating the new boot. I also forgot to mention the grease on the lower end does allow it to turn. I used a special stuff made by Genie screw type garage door openers which stays thin and slippery at very low temps. The old grease they used during assembly probably turned to glue in the cold after a few years. Maybe those from the southern climates see an extended life of this boot for that reason.

As for your fuel line issues...if they are dark and brittle just replace them all. The parts are cheap and you can do all but one without having to pull the IM off. The one which you need to pull the IM for is the one which gets bolted into the back of the IP at one end with a banjo bolt. Be sure you get the o-ring for that end too - you need to ask for it.

If I were doing it I would do all but that one and wait until I had another reason to pull the IM (like to change a GP) then do it unless it was the one which is currently leaking, in which case, bite the bullet and pull the IM.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I know some people don't like it when ancient threads are revived, but I just did this fix on my car. I didn't know how to remove the under dash panel (should have looked it up here), so I broke a couple small plastic tabs. What took the longest to get this done was getting the boot to seal properly in the firewall. There's a little groove in the seal that you have to get the firewall metal to set into, if that makes sense. Maybe my fingers are weak from not doing much car maintenance/repair lately. I made a couple quick videos showing the completed job.

https://youtu.be/WWJ-cuTz5b0

https://youtu.be/rmWzfPlS7ag

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