Anyone replace a window motor in a w126? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tbomachines · #16 06-04-2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graplr

I did the same thing.

I just used a fair amount of electrical tape to hold it tightly in place. It has held for over a year.

Good job.

I'm concerned about doing that--originally I held it on with a generous strip of electrical tape and it didn't hold. The comm shaft with the worm gear generates a lot of torque, it pushes the plastic bushing retainer right out. I think it might be time to upgrade to duct tape and see how that holds. If that doesn't work I can just drill out the rivets, and tap the holes but thats a pain.

Diesel911 · #17 06-04-2009, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Douge

How the heck fire do you properly reattach the white plastic bushing that holds the regulator arm to the window channel? Someone must have posted a DIY on this somewhere but I have yet to find it through the search.

I think you will need to give the year and model of your car. When I looked at the DIY threads I found that the plastic pieces on my 123 are not the same as some of the other models so that means that they attach differently.

tyl604 · #18 06-04-2009, 08:53 PM

You are correct; there is a difference in the design of the sliding jaw over the years. In fact it got worse instead of better. Had about a 73 450SEL and needed to replace the sliding jaw. It was designed - believe it or not- so that it would come apart easily and the new sliding jaw could be installed without peening anything.

Why they changed this great design I will never know.

Diesel911 · #19 06-05-2009, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyl604

You are correct; there is a difference in the design of the sliding jaw over the years. In fact it got worse instead of better. Had about a 73 450SEL and needed to replace the sliding jaw. It was designed - believe it or not- so that it would come apart easily and the new sliding jaw could be installed without peening anything.

Why they changed this great design I will never know.

UPS delivered my new Window Rgulator (for a 123) today (an original Mercedes one). It does not have the same type of pin on it. It has a pin that needs to have the sliding clip that is in the lower right of the pic as it has a groove for that. The origional pin had a solid washer type head on it.
I still had to use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to grind off the old peened part of the old pin and drive that pin out so that I could reuse the plastice pieces and the wavy washer.
I will have to find someplace local where I can buy the clip as I did not buy the kit in the pic below.

ThePhoenix · #20 07-24-2009, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

Fixing window is not as difficult as one may think. You have 4 doors, 2 driver side and 2 passenger side. If you are stuck, look at the other 'working' door. The pain is to remove the panel to look at the good one but MBZ panel is not difficult to remove, a pre-requisite for all MBZ lovers.

Problem with windows:

1) A lot of the time it is the teeth is gone and you are screwed.
2) Or may be motor brushes - possible to replace. I have cut other carbon brushes to size before.
3) gear reduction worn out - screwed.
4) Plastic attachment broke - screwed
5) Frame bent - possible fix
6) May be electric then you are in luck - trace the wires. It is only 2 wires and it change polarity for going up/down. It is NOT connected to chassis.

Look at what is broken and if you think you can fix it then attempt to do it, otherwise get one from a junk yard or buy new.

Good luck.

My driver's window just stopped working. The motor and one of the gears that you can see with the door panel off are both spinning. I'm guessing I fall into your #1 category, in which case it's off to the junkyard...

bgkast · #21 07-25-2009, 12:22 AM

I just fixed my left rear window which failed due to the white plastic slider breaking. To fix it I got a new slider from the junkyard (busted off the arm on the junkyard car, slider, rivet and all), ground off the rivet to get to the slider free, then drilled out the rivet on the arm in the car. I attached the new slider to my existing arm using a long set screw, two low-profile nuts and a bushing. I slightly drilled out the hole in the slider to fit the bushing, cut the bushing down so that it was just longer than the slider hole was deep and installed the bushing in the slider with some grease. I then took some red loc-tite and attached one nut just flush with the non-allen end of the set screw. After the loc-tite dried I slid the nut and setscrew into the slider and clipped the back onto the slider trapping the nut/setscrew assembly in it. I then put the slider into the window channel and installed the setscrew (now sticking out like a stud) into the hole in the arm that used to hold the rivet. Next I used the other nut, a wrench and an allen wrench to tighten down the assembly to the arm. I used SAE 1/4-20 hardware for everything.