Having my buddy look at the 81 300SD I bought and snooping around to see if the no start is something obvious like the relay fuse. He describes the fuse itself as a wire but say it looks like an OEM setup. I have only seen the "wire" replacment fuses as in half assed shade tree mechanic wire fuse, all the others have all been the flat metal fuses.

If in fact it is a piece of wire, can it carry to much current? and what are the ramifications to the g-plugs or other components in that loop if they are getting to much juice?

Thoughts?

Thank you mods!

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

It could be just a poor description on his part.

Since the metal alloy and thickness or width of a fuse are calculated to metl at a certain piont I would suspect that a wire of unknown alloy and size would be a good choice.

If for some reason one companies wire did work like it was supposed to using another companies wire might not work due to a different alloy.

The other alternatives of adapting another type of 80 amp Fuse (I found out they use them on sound system Amplifiers) by wiring on an add on Fuse Holder or the same could be done with a Circuit Breaker are more expensive than just buying an extra Strip Fuse with your next order of Oil Filters or other parts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I've never seen anything but the flat metal type.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

they are cheeeep even @ the stealership. not worth meting down your wiring harness over. but if you're stranded in the woods, then maybe some speaker wire will do the trick- only to the parts house, though.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

What I ment is that if you really wanted 2 you could get a Fuse Holder and wire it to the Relay with some crimp on Eye ends on the wire for the Relay Screws to go through. They more commonly have the Fuse Holders for the Blade type Fuses.
You could do the same with a Circuit Breaker.

Neither time or expense is warranted to do the above. An 80 amp blade type Fuse is close to $5 each; a fuse Holder that can take the amperage $15 or more and a 12 volt 80 amp Curcit Breaker is $30 or more.

Way easier and cheaper just to get some extra flat metal ones.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have a whole new relay to put into the car. The wire is what is in it now. I am thinking that its possible it carried to much current and damaged something down stream, like maybe cooked off one of the plugs.

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

Are the Bain of these fine Germanic Engineering automobiles.

'Was NEVER a "Wire" fuse Always Aluminum alloy (Flat Bladed) strip fuse!
[These are "Slow Blow" type due to the initial up-ramp of amps at glow start]

EDIT: The damn Fool P.O is lucky he didn't experience an underhood Bar-B-Que!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I keep spare fuses with me.

That includes the standard 8A, 16A and 25A (for the 201/124) fuses, GP relay fuse and 1A aux water pump fuse (thanks to DeliveryValve for the fuse link - I was able to also find 1A fuses).

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