I had this problem last year and thought I had it solved. It's 99* out here and I drove to the store. When I came back out, the car wouldn't start.

Something about when it's hot out it doesn't like starting on it's own power. Today the battery read 12.7V, the engine coolant was right at 80 (both when I turned it off and tried to start it), and (of course) I was parked with my nose up hill.

Last year, I upgraded the alternator to a 115 amp and upgraded all the main power wires, and that didn't help. I tried a different battery with the same outcome. I do by the way have the right battery in there...I knew it would get asked. Thinking it was the starter I swapped it out, and didn't have any problems for the rest of the year. Any ideas on what is wrong? I don't want to go through another summer push starting my car. What an embarrassment.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

I have let cars roll backwards and bumped the engine to start it.

Just be sure you have the tranny in reverse!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

you can push start any car whether it has a manual or automatic tranny

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

When was the last time you adjusted your valves?

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

About 10k ago. I am reluctant to accuse the valves due to the fact that the engine wouldn't even start turning by using the starter. A push start works like a charm.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

I have a similar problem when hot outside and I think it it is the solenoid. But haven't gotten around to replacing the starter because it is a pain in the arse to accomplish.

So does make a "click" sound when the problem occurs? If so, try just turning the key to on and release a little and on again until it turns over. My issue almost always start when I do that.
Or try jumping the two outer connectors in junction box in front the battery to see if it cranks over. I keep a Hazet 2769-3 valve spring keeper wrench for this purpose (perfect sized for jumping the terminals) in my glove compartment.

If you are successful in any of those procedures, then it's got to be the solenoid (even though you changed out the starter). Or maybe the ignition switch is full of goo and disrupting the current flow when hot.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Yeah, it's just a light click, then nothing. I should add that I always wait for the glowplugs to time out. The aux fan is usually on and it winds down when I am trying to crank it.

I will try your way and see if I can get anywhere. Thanks.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

Sorry wasn't reading very closely, my bad, I agree with the solenoid.

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

Have you tried jumping terminals 1 and 3 in the plastic junction box on the right front inner fender in front of the battery? It bypasses most of the ignition wiring and feeds current directly to the solenoid.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Also, its always a good idea to check your battery cables including the attachment of the ground wire to the body and the one which connects the engine to the chassis.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I always push start in 2nd, I have had to do it a couple times on the coupe when I left the lights on. my door switch needs replaced.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

I assume you've ruled out the NSS??

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

I have the exact same problem on my SD. After driving for a while in the heat, I get somewhere, shut off, do whatever, return to the car within about 10- 30 minutes and all I get is a "click" and no crank.

I will typically retry the starting about 10 times, then just pop into neutral, let it roll a few inches, jam into park and try again. Almost every time it will start within 2 more attempts.

I really believe it is the solenoid, but just don't have the time to do anything about it. I've been doing this fix of mine for 3 years and not having any problems, so I'm not going to make it a priority fix.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

Since you're only doing something which could effect the NSS, I'd put my money there. Have you tried jumping directly to the solenoid?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I missed the original thread subject. hot start issues is almost always the starter telling you it is about to die. the hot condition makes the resistance in the starter go up causing it to lose function until cold, eventually it wont come back even cold. If you dont want to change it now, I would carry a spare and some tools. if you here a click, it is not the NSS, a bad NSS would electrically isolate the solenoid if it was bad, so no click

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)