603's dying at idle - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cessna5354 · #16 07-02-2009, 08:10 PM

I had the exact symptoms, but with a '99 E300D, I replaced the fuel hoses & IP seals and washers. (200K) I am sure it was combination of fuel leaks & air infiltration.

The improvement was remarkable. ALL problems at idle, and deacceleration (dying at red lites) were eleminated, and performance improved.

LUVMBDiesels · #17 07-02-2009, 08:42 PM

I am curious what should the idle speed RPM be? My SDL idles around 750 with the knob on "5" Should I drop it to "4"?
Brian, what do yours idle at?

Joe

LAbioCars.com · #18 07-03-2009, 08:45 PM

the line on the 2.5 coming from the secondary to the pump shows bubbles when i rev it

I think the fuel heater is the culprit

Brian Carlton · #19 07-03-2009, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

I am curious what should the idle speed RPM be? My SDL idles around 750 with the knob on "5" Should I drop it to "4"?
Brian, what do yours idle at?

Joe

I like the 600 rpm idle speed..........the dial is set at 2 or 3 depending on the vehicle..........no pull at lights.

jevicjim · #20 07-04-2009, 12:22 PM

I had the same problem with my 603 and what I found was a coroded plug that I believe comes from the speed sensor it is located behind the battery which you will have to remove to get to plug. I had to cut the wires and resolder and then it was fine. Good luck

LAbioCars.com · #21 07-10-2009, 07:14 PM

the 350sd i found out had bad fuel in it , so i flushed the whole system from the injectors to the tank
now i cant get the car to start , i have good fuel pressure at the injectors

im wondering if the cyls are flooded causing it not to turn on

any ideas?

sasquatchgeoff · #22 08-04-2009, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cessna5354

I had the exact symptoms, but with a '99 E300D, I replaced the fuel hoses & IP seals and washers. (200K) I am sure it was combination of fuel leaks & air infiltration.

The improvement was remarkable. ALL problems at idle, and deacceleration (dying at red lites) were eleminated, and performance improved.

which seals and washers did you replace? delivery valve o-rings and copper crush washers?

rsieracki · #23 03-30-2010, 12:12 PM

my car had the same issue last night, dying at stoplights then cranking right back up only to die again, i turned the elr up to 7 to help me get home but it died twice once at a stop light and once pulling into my parking spot. this morning it started and runs fine but with my luck the problem will return.

when i got in this morning i noticed a nut w/ washer laying on my floor mat (i remebered it falling and hitting my foot while driving yesterday) perhaps something it loose under the panel that caused this problem maybe a linkage support or acctuator or maybe something unrelated.

back in jan i RRR the IP and updated the vac pump. car sat for 2 months while i was out of town. i jacked around with the VCV and bowden after talking to sixto for a bit due to shifting issues and i removed my ALDA as it was horrible off the line (i may have damaged the ALDA while the pump was out trying to unsuccesfully remove it with too thick a wrench also wrong size and or channel locks...it was 1am and i didnt have the right tools) anyways, i went and bought the proper wrenches and removed the ALDA and car ran great for the past few weeks, then last night this idle dying issue.

my injector return lines leak slightly (havent been able to source replacement lines locally in the right size) im wondering if when the car is warm and therefore idleing slower decrease decrease in fuel presure/volume in pump and or injectors may cause stalling (like the air bubbles BC noticed in his clear lines) or the fuel return valve from the pump (engine side) may be weak.... or maybe im way off base.