Man, what a PITA to do that job.

I must say that having the proper tool for the pressing would have made the job easier. I did not have the proper press tool. I did rent the Auto Zoo tool though.

The disassembly was the easiest part. The hammer trick of hitting the sides only worked on ONE of the uppers. The UCA's were replaced last year. The Auto Zoo tie rod separator worked on the other. I did not have to use the pickle forks.

I used a combo of Auto Zoo press and driving to work to use the arbor press there. The auto zoo press like d to make the ball joint go in crooked. So did the hydraulic press, but crooked opposite to the Auto Zoo one. So it was an alternating assignment.

I used a piece of 2" x 1/4" angle iron on the hydaulic press. The angle iron gave 3 points of contact.

I used Meyle ball joints.

No pics this time.

If I have to do this again, I will be buying the proper tool.

Let this be a lesson, not learned the hardway like I did.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Yes you almost do need a special tool to press or hammer the new joint in.I put one lower joint in had to take it to an M.B. mechanic who had a homemade tool and hammered the new one in place.On the next one I will make that tool and hammer it in.You have to be careful to get it in straight.

I took the knuckle and ball joint to a local indy and he pressed them in for $20.
The indy had the Mercedes press and it took him about 5 - 10 minutes per side.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

I paid someone to replace it on the car, a bit pricey, but I didn't have to deal with removing anything.

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83 SD

84 CD

I had no trouble at all pressing the new ball joints in. I put them in the freezer overnight & the fsm says to use light oil so I put a little wd-40 on them.
Used the Autozone press and they went right in. Used a vise and a lot of force but they weren't that bad. went in perfectly straight too.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Sorry to hear about the aggravation you had, RR. It has taken it a while to sink in but I am starting to get the "proper tool" concept down. I took my steering knuckle off with the aid of a front end tool kit "rented" from Advance Auto. I dropped it off at the indy where I take my car for insepction. He removed the old ball joint and pressed in the new one that I supplied. When I asked him how much, he just said, "Naa, go on." He was happy to help me out. I think he was amused and surprised that I am starting to go deeper with what I am willing to try repairing on my car. Of course I have been keeping him supplied with pastries when he does me a favor like this.

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

I don't in any way intend this to be a confrontation or any kind of pissing contest but after having removed and installed at least a dozen or two 123/126 lower ball joints I can't imagine how this procedure could be accomplished in situ or why anyone would try to do so!

I've seen this statement posted a number of times, I don't suppose that anyone has ever actually observed anyone accomplishing this procedure and can provide any description of what tools would make this possible and how such tools would be used. Someone may have been told or may have heard that the procedure was accomplished while in place, and may even have paid for the pleasure.

First off I can't imagine any way whatsoever to remove an old balljoint when one considers the amount of force usually needed to pop one free. Many people are suprised at the force that is required when following the FSM procedure with the steering knucke securely clamped in a big bench vise! How one could apply such force on live suspension components is hard to believe. There is virtually no room for the ball joint to move out of position with the upper and lower control arms in position so something (the upper control arm ball joint at the very least would have to be disconnected) to allow some space for the lower ball joint to come out of it's position. The lower ball joint stud nut is virtually inaccessable with all parts in position.

To imagine that any mechanic could remove the lower ball joint at all is difficult and if possible at all, that after doing such an amount of work to do so it seems illogical that they would not remove the single 17 mm nut attaching the steering knuckle to the upper control arm!

When it comes to installing the new ball joint I will bet that it is for all practical purposes impossible to ever do so in situ. Again the turning force that needs to be applied to any press tool would be effectively impossible to apply. Using the factory tool or the AZ rental tool requires the press being held in a strong vice, the steering knuckle in position, and usually a breaker bar or large 1/2" ratchet or wrench turning the screw while carefully watching that the part progresses straight and smoothly into position! To position the tool on the hanging knuckle and then to apply the force to turn the screw would require at least three people, one to turn the screw and the other two to secure the work and the tool, and I don't think even that is possible.

Could a master,while working on a hanging steering knuckle position the parts and the tool and then use an impact tool to apply the turning force to the press screw, only a master! I have a pair of ball joint tools both a later style reinforced SIR Tool and an even more substantial AST model and both are noticed not to be used with impact tools. I don't have a picture, but a shop I occasionally work with has an OEM MB numbered tool that has the spine of it's C bent in quite an arch from someone trying to force the tool with the ball joint cocked during an installation, had I not actually held this ruined tool in my hand I would not have believed that it was possible to bend the 1"+ thick backbone of steel abusing these tools.

If anyone ever documents or can provide a description of doing this 123/126lower ball joint R&R in place I'd be very happy to see that and learn. Again I don't mean to confront anyone I'm just trying to understand how something that has been previously described might actually be accomplished, thanks and good luck!

Do a search for "hydraulic ball joint extractor."

With the right equipment, a LBJ replacement on a W123 can be a 10 minute evolution.

I used the Autozone press and they went in smoothly. The only hard thing about doing it yourself is getting the press.

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85 300D Turbo

I did call some shops around here. No go. So I called Pep Boys as a last result. They wanted $35 each! Then when the found out what car it was on, they said they could not do it.

BTW I did have the knuckles off of the car. I could not see how it could be done with the knuckles on the car.

Oh well. this did make me service the bearings. All was good there, and all was good on the brakes. The brake pads, calipers and rotors were replaced 40,000 miles ago. I used Valvoline Synthetic wheel bearing grease like last time.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

I take no offense Billybob, and I did not witness the install. I'm merely passing along all the information available to me. The fella I took it to has someone that works part time for him. Said part timer's regular job is for the city doing suspension work. He has access to various tools from the Snap On guy.
As you may know, removing the spindle requires a bearing set with a dial caliper upon re-install. The amount of time involved would surely run more than the $100 I was charged.
The new part is in, no issues.

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83 SD

84 CD

i too have used the autozone tool with no problem at all. as dannym stated, putting them in the freezer overnight will make a huge difference. you just need to be very careful to start them strait

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

If the implication is that the rotor and hub remained in place during this procedure, I'd be even more skeptical than BillyBob. There is just insufficient space for any tools in there.

a diy if anyone cares:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1453715-diy-w123-lower-ball-joints.html

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"ok now you should have the spindle off the car, cover the wheel bearing part with a rag or two to protect it and then unless you have a hell of a torch and bench vise, bring it to a indy shop, ask if they have the tools to do a mercedes ball joint. if you have both out label which side goes where."