Injector removal procedure!

[abracadabra]

I've done a search for "injector removal" and there are thousands of hits, anyone have any quick links to the procedure?

I want to pull my injectors to have them tested, want to make sure I'm not missing any info.

From what I can tell I remove the hard lines, remove the injectors with a deep 27mm socket, remove/replace heat shields, replace injectors torqued to 60ft/lbs, etc.

Any other tips?

mark

[tbomachines]

List of links in the DIY section:

Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar, and Nailing. LINK THREAD

This should answer almost all of your questions.

[abracadabra]

thanks, yeah thats alot of help!

I've got diesel fuel leaks around at least two of my injectors, I've already replaced the return lines so I know thats not it. Plus the engine nails at warmup, plus it smokes a little more than it should (not oil smoke).

And, my MPG have dropped to around 27 on the highway @ 60-65 as opposed to the 30MPG I've had for years.

Pretty sure these injectors need to come out!

mark

[toomany MBZ]

You may want to do a purge first, at least it won't hurt.

[abracadabra]

Just did the purge a few months back, cleared out the smoke a bit and had smoother idle/more umph but it reverted back to its usual light smoky self pretty soon!

mark

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by abracadabra

thanks, yeah thats alot of help!

I've got diesel fuel leaks around at least two of my injectors, I've already replaced the return lines so I know thats not it. Plus the engine nails at warmup, plus it smokes a little more than it should (not oil smoke).

And, my MPG have dropped to around 27 on the highway @ 60-65 as opposed to the 30MPG I've had for years.

Pretty sure these injectors need to come out!

mark

Could also be a Glow Plug issue.
A Craftsman 1 1/16 inch extra deep socket works as well as the 27mm; I have been using the same one since 1976.
You need to make sure that there is enough room inside the socket so that the little return line nipples do not get damaged. Some of the cheaper so called deep sockets are actually narrow inside at the top.

[toomany MBZ]

Okay, pull 'em and have them tested, use new heat shields when you re-install.

[HammerWerfer]

Might check the return hose nipples. Had one leak on a 6.2l I have. Drove me nuts for a couple of weeks. I had only removed the leak off host to remove a price of metal that was singing to me. The nipple moved just enough that there was a body-tube leak. Replaced injector, and leak was gone. Dropped my mileage by about 2mpg.

HammerWerf

[Cr from Texas]

Originally Posted by HammerWerfer

Might check the return hose nipples. Had one leak on a 6.2l I have. Drove me nuts for a couple of weeks. I had only removed the leak off host to remove a price of metal that was singing to me. The nipple moved just enough that there was a body-tube leak. Replaced injector, and leak was gone. Dropped my mileage by about 2mpg.

HammerWerf

I have a nipple that leaks also (someone cut a return hose and gouged the nipple). Do you have to replace the entire injector to get a new nipple?

X2 on the craftsman 1 1/16 (26.99 mm) and a lot easier to find than a deep 27 mm.

Do you totally remove the hard lines from both the injector and IP or just force them out of the way? I remove mine.

[HammerWerfer]

I replaced my injector. The leak was because when I removed the leak off line, I disturbed the seating of the nipple enough for fuel to get by.

From your description, if the gouge is high enough, a clamp down low on the nipple might be enough to seal it off. Otherwise, I'd replace the injector.

On the deep 27mm socket, I looked in the local AutoZone and found one. The best sockets to get for the injectors are axle nut sockets. Look at the shape of the flats. No sharp corners, very rounded. I don't think a regular socket will fit well.

HammerWerfer

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

I have a nipple that leaks also (someone cut a return hose and gouged the nipple). Do you have to replace the entire injector to get a new nipple?

X2 on the craftsman 1 1/16 (26.99 mm) and a lot easier to find than a deep 27 mm.

Do you totally remove the hard lines from both the injector and IP or just force them out of the way? I remove mine.

The Return Line Nipples on the Injectors Cannot be replaced.
If it is just a deep scratch it might be that you could degrease the nipple with Brake Cleaner, fill the scratch with JB Weld. After it is hardend sand it down with flush using 320 grit sand emery paper.

[Cr from Texas]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The Return Line Nipples on the Injectors Cannot be replaced.
If it is just a deep scratch it might be that you could degrease the nipple with Brake Cleaner, fill the scratch with JB Weld. After it is hardend sand it down with flush using 320 grit sand emery paper.

Thanks, that's worth a try. I also pulled a set of 5 at Pick-n-Pull over the 1/2 price labor day weekend. They look good but I'll pop and spray test to get a matching set of 5.

[Cr from Texas]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The Return Line Nipples on the Injectors Cannot be replaced.
If it is just a deep scratch it might be that you could degrease the nipple with Brake Cleaner, fill the scratch with JB Weld. After it is hardend sand it down with flush using 320 grit sand emery paper.

While I'm at it would it be a good idea to run a bead of JB Weld at the bottom of the nipple as a precaution?
Why not?