i probably could write a chapter on the blow by blow work required to change the rear end on my 83 300 D but i will only say its not impossible.

the four studs and nuts that hold the rear end up into the framework are nothing less than a bit-- to remove and even harder to install.

i did this work with the car on jack stands so at least i was able to move my old body into positions i forgot were available to the human.

my orig. iddea for access to the forward two nuts was to burn a section of the panel behind the rear seat and then just re-weld or glue a cover over it but that sounded too dangerous to the nice interior etc. so i modified some tools and found a old snap on box wrench that was factory bent for something else. necessity is the mother of invention i guess. both are 3/4" 12 points.

geeeze, up and down from the creeper how many times ?

and in the process of putting it back together, i could not for the life of me get all four of the studs back in theholes in the frame member to save my a**. so, i got me a 1/2" drill bit and a small but strong 1/2" air drill and opened the holes up in the frame to just a tad over 1/2". thats all it needed. in it went. then turning the nuts back down on the studs, 1/6th turn at a time. my arm is so sore i could not sleep last night

anyway to make the job a bunch easier the next time, i would pressure wash the underside of the car before tackling that job again. i got sand in my eyes even wearing safety glasses and still must have a couple grains stuck in there somewhere. . . .hurts like heck when i blink.

anyway, the two tools i have made or modified i would be happy to loan to whoever may need them for the cost of shipping & i suppose some kind of deposit. shipping would be flat rate probably under $5 bucks.

but before you really change your rear end, be certain the problem is not severly rusty and stuck emergency brake shoes.............................as i thing my was. . . ., i jerked them out completely and got new rotors for under $50 a pair so after i change the weeping little fuel line thats above one of the axels i will be ready to finish the assembly job and be back on the road.

aaarrrrrggggg !

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused

The only good way to access those four nuts and bolts is to remove the differential mount and lower the diff by three inches. The subframe comes down with the diff and you've got 3 more inches above the subframe for access.

You should have asked questions prior to doing that work. Many of us have done it and there are a bunch of little tricks that shorten a one week task into an eight hour task.