what other knob? All there is to pull is the gorilla knob and turn the key on.

Has someone rigged up something on your car?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

He was pulling the defroster knob. It is a mysterious looking knob on the 115's.

Glad you figured out the problem you were having!
It won't be the last time you smack your forehead when something dawns on you.

__________________
1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi
1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now

Folks, I think Rick was turning on the rear window defroster thinking that it was glow plugs. (on most 220D's, it just an unlabeled pull knob next to the ash tray, that lights up when out, and does not go off automatically like later defroster controls) Then, he was pulling out the gorilla knob, quickly thru the glow plug position, and running the starter, which operates the glow plugs without the salt shaker. Then letting go of the gorilla knob, it falls back, quickly passing thru the glow plug position, to the run position for the IP. Did I get it correct Rick?

Ron

PS Rick, I had worried thoughts about telling you to pull the instruments to check voltages without warning you about the temperature gauge. It is a mechanical unit, and has a tube that goes from the gauge thru the firewall, down to the engine. Be careful not to bend or pull the tube, because you may break it open. When I pull out the instruments, I pull straight back until they just clear the dash, then pull the speedo side out about an inch, reach back and disconnect the cable. Then pull the speedo side out, so the whole cluster is about 45 degrees with dash, with temp gauge side close to the dash. Find your temp gauge tube and see how far it'll come out, and you should get enough room to get one hand into the innards of the dash for voltage checks. Otherwise, carefully remove the bulb from the engine and give the tube some slack through the firewall to get the gauge cluster out a few inches, then remove the temp gauge and oil line to get the cluster completely out. (Or remove bulb up through firewall and take out temp gauge with cluster.)

__________________
1971 220D, daily driver, new paint, 142K
1973 220D, low compression
1975 300D, back on the road! 166K
1971 220D, salvage, rear hit, engine excellent
1972 250, bad cam, but runs!
1971 230, engine stuck
1971 220D, low compression, rusty
1976 240D, salvage, engine excellent
1966 230SL, water in oil after rebuild

Ron,

You hit the nail on the head. Not to mention the defroster control is actually broken. It would have come to me sooner, if the switch and light actually stayed on as it should when pulled. It only stays on if you hold the switch pulled out. Release it and it goes out.

Thanks for the "heads up" on the instrument cluster. I have yet to getting around to pulling it out to replace blown out bulbs or checking out why they are not working. I have to go out of town for a few weeks, so my pet project will be on the back burner until I get back.

Thanks again to all of you for your help,
Rick