This just started and is getting loud. Squeeks when turning or when you hit a bump. Looked at the RF tie rod end, both inner and outer boots busted. Didnt help when i "regreased" them (thats kinda hard to do...).

With both front wheels off the ground, you can spin steering wheel back and forth and still hear the noise just the same as if it were on the ground.

Wondering if shock could make this noise, or should I just RR the tierod? Both rotate when you turn wheel, and both pivot with wheel moving up and down so Im unsure whats causing it. Hard to tell under the car with wheels turning, but its LOUD.

Anyone else ever have this problem on 124 (87 300D) ?

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Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

Assuming that you've isolated it at least to one side! Get the offending side off the ground and the wheel off, disconnect the tie rod end at the wheel carrier; if no sound the problem is tie rods, center link, idler arm, steering shock, if the sound is still there it's the shock or the ball joint.

With the wheel off and the end of the control arm supported at its outward end by a block, stand or jack turn the wheel carrier (this will compress the shock some eliminating the potential that is at the limit of its full extension, making a noise) verify sound still there, spray tthe shock rod near where it enters the shock with a decent spray of WD40 etc. Give the wheel carrier a couple turns, none or diminished sound points to the shock as the problem. If the sound is still there it may very likely be the ball joint.

The ball joint can usually be diagnosed as mechanically failed by jacking the wheel off the ground and grabbing it at 12 and 6 o'clock and checking for play.

To diagnose it for noise, using a needle tip to inject something like 80 weight diff fluid thru the ball joint's rubber boot into the joint itself, then move it around and listen for the difference. Good Luck!

Ball joint failure on the 124 and 201 chassis vehicles are a serious issue as the ball joint coming apart will actually seperate the control arm from the wheel carrier and the wheel will flop around, at any speed this is a very nasty occurance! The chassis drops the inner fender well down onto the wheel, if you try to turn the the wheels it can fold it under or out ripping the shock free!

On the 116/123/126 chassis this joint is sort of captive in the spindle with the lower control arm making if difficult for the ball to ride high enough to come completely free because of the geometry of the spindle and the lower control arm. It will come free but it's takes more force and movement.

does this body style use McPherson struts?

from experience with other vehicles, I know the upper strut mounts can cause all sorts of noises.

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No, it does not.

It uses struts, not macpherson struts. The difference being that macpherson struts are inside of the coil spring.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

how hard is it to remove the tie rod end from the spindle? Will I need alignment if i remove it and put it back on without adjusting?

Are you saying the tie rod is serious issue, or the ball joint? I think the ball joint is OK, Im pretty sure its the tie rod, esp being that the boot is torn and the low freq squeek seems to be eminating from tie rod end. Hard to tell though...do tie rod ends typically groan/squeek when dry?

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Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

To disconnect the tie rod from the wheel carrier, you loosen the 17 mm nut, and then use a tie rod separator tool or the two hammer striking method to pop the stud free. If you do not replace the tie rod or the ends you can put it right back together, if you replace the tie rod or the ends you can get things very close to where they should be by carefully measuring the old part and its position and then setting or assembling the new parts to as close to the old position as possible. It won't be perfect without an alignment and it won't be close if you recently had an alignment done on the worn parts as the alignment would have been dialed in compensating for the worn parts. A decent shop would have replaced any worn out of spec parts before doing an alignment!

Both can be serious but the tie rods less so. Tie rods have a smaller ball joint at each end and usually have the boot fail, then the lube and grime act as an abrasive wearing the ball and its' seat, it will also rust from water getting in there. The steering will become looser; make noises for quite some time before a catastrophic failure with the ball separating from the seat.

Lower ball joints(the 124/201/140 have only a single ball joint on their control arm) are larger and come under considerably more stress as they are a critical junction of the suspension geometry. The failure mechanism is essentially the same, boot failure, corrosion, and the mechanical failure with the ball separating from its' seat. The difference is this ball joint is under constant pressure from the weight of the vehicle in one direction and the force of the spring in the other direction, so wear is accelerated and failure can be sudden!

All ball joints will creak and make noise as they advance towards failure!

Good advice about injecting the rubber boots...if in good condition, I have done it many times but I do use regular grease not oil. I have also replaced rubber boots on stiff but not loose ball joints and gotten a few more years out of them.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Original quote, "To diagnose it for noise, using a needle tip to inject something like 80 weight diff fluid thru the ball joint's rubber boot into the joint itself, then move it around and listen for the difference."

I have only recommended the injection of lube into a ball joint as a diagnostic procedure to determine if that particular joint is a source of noise. 75-90 weight diff lube is the heaviest that can be easily added because a small amount will permeate the joint quickly and achieve the desired result where it would take grease a while to get into all the area's that need it to reduce the noise.

I would not re-lube a joint that has not been designed with a zerk to do so, except for a temporary effect. These MB style joints are not designed for re-lubing and are sort of sealed so as to not lose lube, so if a joint is making a noise while moving it's in the process of wearing out and failing. Not replacing a joint under these circumstances is a calculated risk.

It only works if the joint is not loose. With age they can get water in them and dirt. Also if the boot leaks a bit. If it is allowed to leak too long without replacement then the damage is done and the joint is loose.

I have replaced boots and lubed numerous bj's through the years and had good results in every case.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.