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New brake booster line = vacuum problems
Good news: I adjusted my steering box today and the slop is gone!
Bad news: In doing the adjustment, I snapped off the plastic nipple on the brake booster line where the transmission/shutoff vac line and the door locks/CCU vac line connect. On my car, both of these vac lines were T-ed together and they connected to the booster line at the nipple closer to the brake booster. (The nipple closer to the vacuum pump had apparently been broken off by the PO, as it's gone and the hole is sealed up.) I ordered a replacement booster line from Phil and installed it. I used both nipples this time. The door locks didn't work, the transmission shifted harshly, and the engine wouldn't shut off with the key. I double checked that everything was connected and even did the "suck test" on the shutoff valve just to make sure it was still good. Thinking maybe the PO was on to something that I didn't know about, I replicated the one-nipple connection from the old booster line by T-ing the vac lines and plugging the unused nipple. No change. Then, I "fixed" the old booster line using some vac hose and epoxy/duct tape. The repair held long enough for me to reinstall the old booster line and confirm that the locks worked and the car shut off just like old times. I feel I've narrowed down the problem to the new booster line, but what could be wrong with it? Any thoughts? Thanks for reading this long post! Charlie
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles 82 300D - 200K miles (sold) |
#2
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It is obvious you're not achieving vacuum through the new line,
Did you check for vacuum at the connections for vacuum verification? This where I start the troubleshooting , It could be a bad new vacuum line!
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1986 190D 5 cyl. 5 speed manual White (215K), 1983 300SD Silver blue (103K) |
#3
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There is a check valve in the booster line. There is an arrow on the valve. When the line was installed, which way was the arrow pointing?
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#4
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I was able to feel vacuum at both connections on the new booster line when I covered them with a finger, but (shame on me, I know) I don't have a vac gauge and so couldn't compare it to the vac level on the old booster line (assuming I could even get a reading with another temporary "repair").
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles 82 300D - 200K miles (sold) |
#5
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The arrow points toward the vacuum pump (same with the old line). I blew through the new line just to make sure it wasn't blocked. Air goes through in the direction of the arrow but not the other way.
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles 82 300D - 200K miles (sold) |
#6
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I just spoke with my indy and he suggested taking a drill bit and carefully reaming out each of the vac fittings on the booster cable. He said it's common for them to be "clogged" with plastic that wasn't properly removed in the manufacturing process.
I'll give it a try this evening.
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles 82 300D - 200K miles (sold) |
#7
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Your Indy beat me to it. I had the exact problem, stuck a straightened out paper clip in each of the nipples and everything was sunshine and lolipops.
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Rich B 1983 300D Turbo 205k Excuses are crutches for the weak |
#8
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success!
A 7/64" drill bit fit perfectly inside each fitting. I started "drilling" by hand with vise-grips as my indy recommended to avoid going straight through the line, but eventually I switched to the power drill and went very slowly and carefully. Lots of plastic junk came out of both holes.
Now the engine shuts off instantly with the key, the door locks snap up and down... and my transmission is flaring like crazy! Time to dial back the vac to the trans--is this best accomplished by adjusting the modulator? I looked at my VCV before and I don't think it's one that's adjustable.
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles 82 300D - 200K miles (sold) |
#9
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I just read your last post and I was mystified to why you would drill the (T's) in the main vacuum booster line.
the engineers purposely designed a certain size orifices to restrict the vacuum, and not to take away from the brake booster. You should have not drill out the orifices in the main vacuum line that runs between the vacuum pump and the brake booster reservoir ! I would suggest adding inline vacuum orifices to create a restriction to the other vacuum devices. Here is some orifices you could try to match your systems. Color: I.D. P/N: Yellow……2.0 mm..……..1162760929 Red……….1.1 mm….…….1162761029 Blue………1.0 mm…………1162761129 Brown……0.9mm….……..1162761429 White……0.8 mm…………1162761229 Green……0.7 mm…………1162761329
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1986 190D 5 cyl. 5 speed manual White (215K), 1983 300SD Silver blue (103K) |
#10
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vacuum pump?; brake not working; still on when key removed; transmission shiftshard
Hi,
on my 1984 diesel 300 series, my brakes are not working at low speeds like parallel parking, driving around the grocery lot and stopping where they should at red lights. The engine keeps running when the key is removed, and the transmission shifts hard at low speeds. A friend told me to check the vacuum lines. I know nothing about cars. I took the car to a mechanic, he performed a smoke test, no leaks. He checked the pressure produced by the vacuum pump, and reported it was lower than the minimum required. Hence the car needs a new pump. The mechanic reported this fix to cost about $800. I am a college student, and never had anyone teach me about car repair. My friend informs me that if I had the piece re-built and did the repair myself it would cost me about $300. That is a big difference, and I would not have to sell the car and be car-less. But if I do not learn how to do repairs I will not keep the car, it would be too expensive to take it to a mechanic every time. My questions to you'll, is 1) based on the information I gave, would you concur with the mechanic that the car needs a new vacuum pump? 2) being of average intelligence, no mechanical background, no knowledge of tools, basically a blank state; what are the chances that individual could self-teach and correctly make a major repair? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated: is this the right forum for me? if I sell the car, how should I calculate my asking price, (I've owned the car since May, 150,000 miles b/c the engine was replaced by a previous owner, A/C and heat work, really the car runs well, i'm kinda starting to like it, but as a college student I lack the time and money if its going to need work constantly, since owning it from May I put about $600 from mechanic visits, compared to about $100 would have been if I knew how to do the repairs myself.)....and anything else. really all the concise info you can give me. Thank you |
#11
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Quote:
If you plan to be a W123 owner (thats the body style of your 300D), unless you have a lot of money to spare, it would be a good idea to know how to work on the car. Most of the time and $$ involved is during initial ownership as there will always be something that needs to be done on the car until you get it to a point where everything is fixed. Depending on how the car was cared for, most of the issues with these cars are not terribly bad to fix for the DIYer. This forum will be very helpful. However, you will need the TIME to get your feet wet in learning the hows. This may be a bit tough if you are a student. The vac pump is not difficult to work on. Its fairly easy to remove and inspect. Its a pretty sturdy component but due to use, some components inside it may have broken especially when miles are high. Repair kits are available online. Its also possible that this is not the problem of you car. IIRC, the pump should be pulling 21-23 in Hg of pressure. If you can find a W123 forum member in the Reading or nearby area, that would be a plus. Otherwise, I would consider getting a vehicle that can "hit the ground running" that you don't have to mess with (Honda, Toyota,.....?)
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa Last edited by tobybul; 10-25-2009 at 06:56 AM. |
#12
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Quote:
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#13
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Thank you-1984 300D vacuum issues
Thanks guys,
your input was very helpful. 2 new questions. next question: How do I calculate my ask price, (of course I will be upfront about this vacuum issue, maybe the next owner knows an easy fix.) Or 2) Is there a subscriber in the Reading, PA area that would like to mentor a college student and his 84'. haha... |
#14
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Price will be relative to the body and mechanical condition of the car. If the body is in good shape, it would be worth more. The mechanicals are somewhat secondary as they are fixable but its tougher to do body work. If I were to take a stab at it, it can range from $1500 to $3000 depending on its condition. Maybe even more if the bidy is pristine. I can't help you much with the other question. But even if theres a member in the Reading area, you have to be really mechanically inclined. Post some pics...
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#15
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I adjusted my transmission modulator and now the shifts are back to normal, too.
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles 82 300D - 200K miles (sold) |
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