The Tanks Strainer can most often be cleaned (after the TAnk is drained)but you do need an new O-ring when you assemble it.
For more details
Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's probably my next approach.. I was thinking about putting it on a lift at my buddys shop, busting out the 1 13/16ths socket and letting it loose... draining the thing into a 5 gallon bucket, then filtering the removed fuel through a painters filter (If you're familiar with body shops, you'll know exactly what I mean), then spraying the inside down with... something.. LOL

Good point on burning the little critters thru the system.. I'm going to continue on as planned for the moment, but you suggestion is my iron-clad Plan B!

Thanks!

Biodiesel is a good something to rinse the tank and clean the strainer. And you can filter it like you were planning with what drains from the tank for repeated rinsings then burn it along with fuel. A gallon or so of bio in a full tank of pump Diesel shouldn't harm fuel line seals. Pour in a quart per tankful if you're worried. I think it keeps But maybe you were planning to go bio anyway.

Sixto
87 300D

Do you hear a rush of air when you remove the fuel filler cap? Does the filter fill more completely with the fuel filler cap off? If so, maybe you have a clogged tank vent.

Again, why keep the gunk in the tank? Remove the strainer to clean it and drain out the gunk.

The lift pump hangs off the IP. There shouldn't be any other pump between the tank and IP unless someone messed with WVO in the car's past.

Sixto
87 300D

Re: tank vent = you'll have to wait for someone with a 123 to answer that.

Sixto
87 300D

The strainer is at the bottom of the tank above the passenger side axle. It's held by a 46mm nut. There's a rubber hose extending from the center of the strainer to the metal fuel supply line under the car. The tank will drain completely when you remove the rubber hose so do this with the tank as empty as you can get it and have a big container ready, wear eye protection and have necessary precautions close by.

Someone mentioned an o-ring or some type of seal for the strainer so consider having a new one on hand as well.

Sixto
87 300D

Sixto.. thanks for suggesting using bio for cleaning... didn't really think of that! I DO plan on using Bio/WVO at some point, but I'm still getting this thing road-ready... The ball joints are shot, brakes are soft, and let's not talk about that lovely HVAC system.. LOL

I did get lucky tho... got an entire setup for the front end on ebay.. upper arms w/ ball joints and bushings, lower bjs and bushings, tie ends, sleeves, center link, idler arm kit, torsion rod bushings, sway links etc.. basically everything but a steering dampener, shocks and springs... brand new...

$200 shipped...

Now, I just need springs.. someone put lowering springs on this thing.. I looked.. they're NOT factory worn ones. Anyways, back to the sludge issues at hand...

A new strainer is ~$20 and an o-ring is ~$1 from Phil through the Fastlane link in the Buy Parts tab at the top of the page.

Sixto
87 300D

I've never seen pump Diesel do that. That looks more like animal fat remnants.

Sixto
87 300D

I've never seen pump Diesel do that. That looks more like animal fat remnants.

Sixto
87 300D

I was leaning towards it possibly being more than growth... who knows what someone could've been trying to run through that poor car. It does look a LOT like a fatty piece of bacon, but it had a fiber-like texture when pulling it out.... I just hope it's the LAST time I ever see anything like that!!!

Thanks for the info on the biodiesel-safe o-rings. I did just replace the strainer o-ring with a rubber one... but honestly I may not convert it and just sell it. I listed it on craigslist last night... and had a few bites. I'm not overly motivated to sell it, but I'm weighing that "amount of work to make it how I want it VS how much I already dumped into it in the past 6 weeks VS just buying a newer fuel efficient vehicle" debate right now...

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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ytat2s/av2.jpg

"Bane" 1983 300D with 197K

(I'll re-name it Lazarus when it's done being evil and milking my wallet dry with repairs).

And in loving memory of my now~gone 1985 AMG 1000SEL that was mono white...

Perhaps someone in the past was trying to run single-tank veggie oil or some other "alternative" fuel and the tank didn't get cleaned afterwards.

If you are considering biodiesel, use a Viton o-ring when you replace the strainer. Viton is more expensive than plain rubber but won't dissolve in biodiesel. If you will just be using biodiesel for cleaning (it is a great solvent) you can get by with regular rubber o-rings. Viton o-rings correctly sized for Mercedes applications are available from Fryerpower.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

[QUOTE=Jeremy5848;2352193]Perhaps someone in the past was trying to run single-tank veggie oil or some other "alternative" fuel and the tank didn't get cleaned afterwards.

I agree. As much a fan of alternative fuel as I am, I'd probably never buy a car that someone else ran alternative fuel in (unless I knew them well and trusted their word)

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John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln