EGR Delete/Remove
 

Does anyone have a step by step pictorial of removing the EGR for my vehicle?

Kit...
 

If you order a kit from Brian Carlton he includes all parts and instructions with how-to...

does he have a website?

That kit is about physically removing the valve from the engine and using block off plates to cover the remaining openings. You can just pull the lines from the black box. Plug off the egr nipple, the two thermo nipples just above the t'stat. Follow the two other lines to where they intersect with a two, three or four way connector, distributor in MB speak, and replace those with a one fewer connector. You'll have new connectors and your exhaust will no longer pollute your manifold.

what is the benefit, other than not polluting my manifold? Performance?

I appreciate the explanation without removing the egr. But I am a dummy!! I need pics to go with what your saying.:(

I second that. I want to do the same thing on my '85 300sd Cali. I'm much more visual, pics would be great :)

the 85s will handle the vacuum bits a little different.

http://mb.thatchermathias.com/1985_cal.jpg

once you remove the valve and block it, you can use the above diagram to remove the EGR/ARV related vacuum lines.

Okay,
Pic 1 the egr valve and the thermo nipples have a rubber plug on them.
Pic 2 the distributor that comes up from the vcv and into a green damper used to be a four way, new three way now.
Pic 3 Brian's kit.
Pic 4 the line between the bottom of the vcv and the black vent line used to be a three way, now a piece of rubber hose, or a two way.
Pic 2 & 4 had lines coming from the black box.
A line from the egr valve used to go to one of the thermo valve nipples, then from the other one to the black box on the top row of three. One lie each from the top three went to above explained orifices.
And the last pic is of the 3/2 valve and black box that used to be on that car, the view is of the bottom, note the two lower nipples are not connected to anything.
SO, inspect what you have, take before pics, I did not, and start plugging and removing.

Good point matthew, the 85's are different.

Goodness your cali models are so much more confusing then my federal! I guess I should be blessed to know that I only have to deal with the ARV and EGR.

All 85s are basically the same with the exception of the trap/ox and the placement of the air cleaner.

anyone?

Having a non-functioning EGR or blocked EGR will help in not having the manifold clogged up with carbon, along with possibly better performance.



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Your performance won't deteriorate any more than it has by trying to use hot exhaust gases instead of clean, more dense colder air.
Cold clean atmosphere has more power than carbon monoxide ladened gas.

If you go back and view "my previous posts" Brian showed me how to get rid of the EGR and the ARV stuff. I think that was one of my first few posts? I had a horrible whistling noise. Removing that crap fixed the problem.

On the 85 it is more involved than the earlier cars. I followed his instructions to the letter and everything is great. It is also much cleaner looking under the hood.:D

Well, this thread started out from another issue involving the Pressure Converter making a rapid tick-tick-tick at 1000 rpm, causing my tach needle to get stuck on the 10, keep ticking, then popping up to normal rpm. The ticking would stop, but return every time I would come near 1000 rpm, and then the needle would get stuck again. Weird huh? Well i disconnected it at DeliveryValve's suggestion (thanks buddy) and it solved the problem. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not to remove what I don't need (EGR Valve) to stem the issue.

The wagon runs just as it did before the unplug of the Pressure converter, but for how long? When will I need this thing? Should I go and get one? Or continue going out to the driveway when the kids are screaming and tinker?:D

Found it....

Here.... Follow the instructions in this thread!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/246133-vacuum-problem.html


This makes the system much simpler and gets rid of those "worthless" valves, etc... The difference was dramatic in my case!:D

I dd not "throw the parts in the trash". They are in big ziploc's and will go with the car if I ever sell it. You do not need the item you are calling a "pressure converter".

I like the color of your car!:D

you have a california vacuum setup? DeliveryValve posted the federal vacuum diagram for me, should I use that one? Or does it matter? I'm not positive to which one I have , I'm going to guess "federal" since the car never lived in CA.

I realized that after I posted in that particular thread. I was a newbie and new nothing of these cars back then.

The diagram in "that thread" is the correct one to follow as both of those components along with all the associated tubing and elbows are in the diagram.


EDIT: NO, mine is a Federal. That was part of the confusion when I was trying to figure all of this out. Just follow that thread and the diagram in that thread and you'll be fine. You will see all of those components once you start following the diagram. It will make more sense once you get into it.

Hotter the burn temp the higher the NOx produced. "
When NOx and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) react in the presence of sunlight, they form photochemical smog, a significant form of air pollution, especially in the summer. Children, people with lung diseases such as asthma, and people who work or exercise outside are susceptible to adverse effects of smog such as damage to lung tissue and reduction in lung function.[2]
Mono-nitrogen oxides eventually form nitric acid when dissolved in atmospheric moisture, forming a component of acid rain. The following chemical reaction occurs when nitrogen dioxide reacts with water:"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_oxide

Performance...
 

I disconnected the EGR and associated vacuum lines on my 81 wagon and it made a world of difference.
Prior to, the car was very sluggish off the line. Now it's like a jack-rabbit. Well, maybe not a jack-rabbit but it works a heck of a lot better.:D

so your saying that the the egr lessens these pollutants?

that's encouraging, thanks. I can't complain about the power of the car, I mean I could always use more, but I can't complain. I'm looking forward to the weekend now. ;)

yes. That is the only reason for the EGR system. To lesson pollution.

one more thank you with one final question. Must I install a plate of some sort to block the port off?

Nope. The valve is normally closed. VAC is added to open the valve, allowing exhaust to enter the intake. I think the BB trick will work on these vehicles.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2065091-post6.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/251632-egr-removed-caused-hard-shifts.html?highlight=disable+EGR

Only if you physically remove the egr valve itself. If you do, you'll need to block off both ends.
All parts to do that come in the kit Brian sells, see pic 4 in post 9.

If your transmission is shifts fine with the pressure converter unplugged and you wish to have your EGR and ARV removed, here is what I would recommend to delete as follows in the diagram. The red cross marks are to be eliminated. Also note the vacuum lines to be plugged.
Make sure the left over electrical connections are sealed and will not be grounded.

EDIT: Before attempting to physically remove the items I stated, I would first plug the two vacuum lines I suggested and unplugging electrical power to #81 and #84 on the diagram. Then test the transmission shifting to see if it has any change that is not to your satisfaction. If satisfied, then you could physically remove such items.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1256930220





Physically removing these items will tidy up your engine compartment a bit.






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DeliveryValve
 

I have never messed with the vacuum in my 1981 300SD, beyond the ball bearing in the EGR line trick. I want to get my door/trunk locking mechanism working, any clean up under the hood if possible.

Would the '85 diagram apply to help me work through this??

Not on an SD, the lock system is unrelated to the engine vacuum system. It is a stand alone unit powered by an electric motor in the trunk.

This is the diagram that will work for your '81.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1256938211


Since you have your EGR plugged and to "clean up" your vacuum lines, follow toomany MBZ's advice on post #9.




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Thanks, Guys
 

This'll keep me busy when I've got nothing else to do....;)

This white plastic thing (filter? expansion tank?) is between the ATM line on #84, before #85 and #81, which I cannot identify. is it #85?After this white plastic cup thingy the vacuum line runs into the firewall.

Yes it is #85. The vacuum line then runs into the firewall and under the dash left open to vent in atmospheric air. You should be able to just pull the line out from the firewall.


I just read snookwhaler's link. Good directions there.




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An air filter.

^yep, some folks put one there as a visual to see if any oil is getting in the line.

interesting. there's no filter material though. should there be?

^ I would think, the paper units work better. I'm not familiar with '85's, but it looks stock.
That seems to go to the vent, in case something from the cabin would contaminate the system.
So my first response doesn't make sense. I've seen folks do that on the shut off line.

can somebody post a pic of #81, the vacuum converter/switchover valve?

It looks almost identical to the switchover valve over on the firewall next to the brake booster. IE: #125

#81 is mounted to the drivers inner fender well right next to that stupid pressure regulator.



Edit: pic

This is my car before I removed all of that nonsense. The switchover valve #81 is immediately to the left of the pressure reg. in this pic.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...Drversside.jpg

First one is on my '83 SD.
The second is my '84 CD, note it is not in the loop.
The '85's are different, maybe.

DUDE!! That is one clean engine compartment!!!

Okay, in this pic, (2nd pic) its the little valve guy next to the pressure converter/regulator correct? its missing the vacuum line from the top, so is it safe to assume that the PO plugged it already? I can't make heads or tails what T junction to look at to verify.

on my 85 300d ca. car i unplugged egr and avr vac hoses-plugged with bee bees.is this enough and are the rest of vac hose removal more of a cosmetic issue?i have noticed more power with vac lines plugged-is this to be expected??

PLEASE WAIT BEFORE HIJACKING MY THREAD!!!
 

okay, this is what it looks like right now. look at the bolt being used as a plug. this was done by the PO. Is this where the switchover valve plugged into?

Yep... That is #81.

Yes.... They are A LOT different.

That component would be #126 on his car. That is the Boost switchover valve.

As per Delivery Valve's instructions, I plugged up vacuum lines 63b and after #81. Transmission shifts smoothly as before so i removed the rest of the lines. However I can't find the line to the #71, because I'm not sure where #71 is. Its below the EGR valve? All runs well, no noticeable difference in performance though, but ticking and sticky tach is gone. :)

SnookWhaler, your shiny engine compartment is making me jealous. :o

#71 runs from the ARV over to the middle of that switchover valve #81.

The ARV is over by the EGR valve and below.

I believe this diagram can be used for my 1983 300td. Can someone confirm that?

In addition to the cleaner running
 

I like the way elimination of the EGR cleans up access in the engine compartment. This is my 1983. I also totally removed the thermo-vac switch and replaced it with a simple brass pipe plug.

Note that normally the EGR only operates during cold start to warmup thus eliminating a major source of unburned hydrocarbons. That's why the EGR valve is controlled by the thermo-vac sensor. It's effectiveness for a diesel has always been questionable.

Also, be aware that if you have to emission-test your car and your state also requires a visual inspection you will flunk without the EGR valve physically in place no matter how clean your emissions.