Will I get vibration problems if I remove my cooling fan? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

CANDIDE · #1 11-03-2009, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Dear All,

I'm considering an upgrade for my W123 1981 5 cylinder 300D

I'd like to junk the mechanical (viscous?) cooling fan and replace it with a super-duper electric system. I'm a bit concerned about vibrations though - surely the removal of a great whirling chunk of metal near to the top of the engine will have an effect?

Whilst the easiest solution is to just take off the fan and drive about without any forced air cooling (it is quite cold here in the Netherlands at the moment) and see how it goes - I'd appreciate any comments from the those who may have done this before me.

I have looked through the old posts and some get close to answering my question - so if I've missed the important one please point me in the right direction! (I am trying not to go over old ground)

Thanking you all in advance...

I removed my belt driven fan and have no vibration problem. If you go with the electric fan, you will benefit from a custom cowl to mount it. The cowl can't be more than 0.5" in thickness, or you will interfere with the engine.

Good luck.

oldsinner111 · #2 11-03-2009, 11:23 AM

I used my stock fan cowl with modifications to it with E Fan.Sometimes Autozone will carry fan in stock ($60).Jegs has controller for $19.00.You can adjust jeg brand.I set mine for 100c,so it does not run much.Also have extra pigtail on stock E Fan in case new fan stops running.You will love the power gains.

pselaphid · #3 11-03-2009, 12:54 PM

Oldsinner, I'm interested in your fan setup. Dieselgiant sells an electric kit for $300+, but sounds like you figured out a solution for way less. Parts numbers for the fan (or application to ask for) and jegs controller and description (or pics?) of what you had to do to the fan shroud would be much appreciated. I've got an extra shroud and the fan clutch on my 300d is on the way out, so I have a sudden motivation for a retrofit. Of course if the mods to the shroud are obvious, I can probably figure it out. Thanks.

Stretch · #4 11-03-2009, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

I used my stock fan cowl with modifications to it with E Fan.Sometimes Autozone will carry fan in stock ($60).Jegs has controller for $19.00.You can adjust jeg brand.I set mine for 100c,so it does not run much.Also have extra pigtail on stock E Fan in case new fan stops running.You will love the power gains.

Thanks for your input Oldsinner (nice username by the way!) - what do you mean by an "extra pigtail"? Is that a sort of by-pass wiring setup?

In England a brand called Kenlowe are popular for lots of classic cars - they have several systems with by-pass switches and thermostat sensors as well as double fan setups

http://www.kenlowe.com/

But their prices are not as cheap as your setup - thanks for the tip! (I'll see if the shipping to Europe is worthwhile for me - but I'm sure it is good for others on the other side of the pond)

Stretch · #5 11-03-2009, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CANDIDE

I removed my belt driven fan and have no vibration problem. If you go with the electric fan, you will benefit from a custom cowl to mount it. The cowl can't be more than 0.5" in thickness, or you will interfere with the engine.

Good luck.

Thanks for the no vibration vote Candide - I was hoping that removing a spinning chunk of metal near to the top of the engine might actually reduce vibration!

Does anyone know the speed at which the fan rotates (I believe the point of a viscous fan is that it runs at a more or less constant speed)? If I can find this out then I can make some measurements - do some maths and see if my suspicions are true or not...

pselaphid · #6 11-03-2009, 01:48 PM

Electrical failure and possible resulting overheating is a good point, but in my case the car rarely gets more than 100 mi from home, and in such an event (unlikely but possible) that's what AAA is for. I'd also be interested in whether setting the E fan to come on at a lower temp might offer better cooling than the stock fan around town in hot weather. Does anyone with an electric retrofit have positive or negative feedback on that?

Stretch · #7 11-03-2009, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pselaphid

Electrical failure and possible resulting overheating is a good point, but in my case the car rarely gets more than 100 mi from home, and in such an event (unlikely but possible) that's what AAA is for. I'd also be interested in whether setting the E fan to come on at a lower temp might offer better cooling than the stock fan around town in hot weather. Does anyone with an electric retrofit have positive or negative feedback on that?

Hi Pselaphid - Obviously I can't give you any positive or negative feedback but I will say that all modern vehicles seem to be made this way so it must be OK. From the little I know you don't want to over cool an engine but I guess where you live that isn't going to be a problem! The systems I've been looking at allow a manual override and thermostatic control so you could choose whatever you want.

Take a look at oldsinner111's photographs he's got some pictures of his E fan setup - it looks good!

winmutt · #8 11-03-2009, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Obviously I can't give you any positive or negative feedback but I will say that all modern vehicles seem to be made this way so it must be OK.

How many modern vehicles are broken in at 300k?

Just stick the with viscous. Its alot less likely to fail on you in the middle of the desert!

compu_85 · #9 11-03-2009, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

How many modern vehicles are broken in at 300k?

My 91 Jetta was well broken in then. The motor required replacement at 400k because the brushes wore out and it was not serviceable. I had to repair the wiring when I got the car at 370k because a PO let the battery explode and the acid ate the wiring. I actually drove the car for 2,000 miles with no fan at all. No problems because my drive then was all country and I was always moving.

Seems the visco clutch on my benz was dead by 200k. What a POS

The dual electric fans, and their electronic controller, all work fine on my TDI at 240k. And in the summer I use the AC all the time, so they never shut off.

IMHO a well designed electric fan is a good substitute for a broken visco fan. Of course some cheep piece of crap won't last, but a quality piece should work fine. I'll be doing this conversion on my pickup soon. I kept (well replaced... damn that oem one is $$$!!!) the visco fan on my SDL because I want the car to be as original as possible.

-Jason

HuskyMan · #10 03-12-2010, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

My 91 Jetta was well broken in then. The motor required replacement at 400k because the brushes wore out and it was not serviceable. I had to repair the wiring when I got the car at 370k because a PO let the battery explode and the acid ate the wiring. I actually drove the car for 2,000 miles with no fan at all. No problems because my drive then was all country and I was always moving.

Seems the visco clutch on my benz was dead by 200k. What a POS

The dual electric fans, and their electronic controller, all work fine on my TDI at 240k. And in the summer I use the AC all the time, so they never shut off.

IMHO a well designed electric fan is a good substitute for a broken visco fan. Of course some cheep piece of crap won't last, but a quality piece should work fine. I'll be doing this conversion on my pickup soon. I kept (well replaced... damn that oem one is $$$!!!) the visco fan on my SDL because I want the car to be as original as possible.

-Jason

200,000 miles on a component isn't bad IMHO. moving mechanical parts are going to fail or need attention at some point. the post concerning a failed electrical system is something to consider. sure don't want to be on a trip 1000 miles from home and lose the electrical system and thus the electric fan.