What motor Oil should I use in the cold - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#46 11-07-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Wow.........how come I'm not stuck at the Marriott with ambient temps of 0°F?

I don't think they're going to let me run an extension cord through the lobby.

LOL, I once ran an extension cord from my second story balcony to my 300D at the Residence Inn in Green Bay (it was about -10F overnight). On more than one occasion, I was able to start because I was running 5W40 in cold climates.

Brian Carlton · #47 11-07-2009, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

Because Brian Carlton you maintain your vehicle in tip-top condition. You're not the typical get in and drive type of owner. HMMM... Why in Fairbanks AK are plugs are provide at the Marriott? Oh YEAH they really do provide them... STIR THAT POT!!!!

Well, I suppose you must define your words "that cold".

Somewhere along the way, you'll be correct, depending on temperature and vehicle condition.

When you refer to "get in and drive type of owner".............would this be folks that never replace glow plugs..........never do a valve adjustment............and never change fuel filters...............that type?

And, if that is the type............why would they obsess over the type of oil? Hell, they're probably using Pennzoil 10W-30.

#48 11-07-2009, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

The fact remains if it gets that cold you must use a block heater that will keep the block and hence oil warm enough that it won't be an issue. If it's that cold glow plugs alone won't work.

Sure they work, I've started my car at 0F without using the block heater. You need a good battery, adjusted valves, good injectors, etc. Winter fuel and synthetic 5w40 will be an advantage.

#49 11-07-2009, 09:58 AM

Speaking of fuel filters, I've started replacing my spin-on filter every fall because of the potential water collected. Last winter I came close to stalling while climbing a hill in PA at about 5F, I'm pretty sure the fuel/water in my filter was starting to freeze. As soon as I hit warmer temperatures, full power came back.

bobodaclown · #50 11-07-2009, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Well, I suppose you must define your words "that cold".

15W has a pour point of Appox -30 deg C
5W has a pour point of Approx -45 deg C
Pour point: The pour point is the lowest temperature at which an oil will flow. This property is crucial for oils that must flow at low temperatures. A commonly used rule of thumb when selecting oils is to ensure that the pour point is at least 10°C (20°F) lower than the lowest anticipated ambient temperature.

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/pour_point.htm

In short... 15W is good to about -20 Deg C or -4 deg F

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Somewhere along the way, you'll be correct, depending on temperature and vehicle condition.

WOW... From a moderator. I expected better behavior.

I've stated my personal and profession opinion and quoted references/sources.

Brian Carlton · #51 11-07-2009, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

15W has a pour point of Appox -30 deg C

In short... 15W is good to about -20 Deg C or -4 deg F

WOW... From a moderator. I expected better behavior.

Have you tried to start a diesel at -4°F. with 15W-40? I suspect so, because of your conclusion that a block heater is required. I would agree in many cases, depending on engine condition. However, if you tried it with 5W-40, as I have, your results might be significantly different. Thankfully, nobody is towing my vehicle from the Marriott.

............better behavior...........how so? I simply disproved your claims...........nothing more.

Brian Carlton · #52 11-07-2009, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

Speaking of fuel filters, I've started replacing my spin-on filter every fall because of the potential water collected. Last winter I came close to stalling while climbing a hill in PA at about 5F, I'm pretty sure the fuel/water in my filter was starting to freeze. As soon as I hit warmer temperatures, full power came back.

Every fall probably works out to 35K miles for you. That's nearly double the average diesel. The filter degrades based upon total throughput, so, in your case, one year is a relatively long time.

I tend to go about three years..........10K per year.

#53 11-07-2009, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Every fall probably works out to 35K miles for you. That's nearly double the average diesel. The filter degrades based upon total throughput, so, in your case, one year is a relatively long time.

I tend to go about three years..........10K per year.

I usually change it more frequently, when I detect any reduction of power, but I've started changing it every fall regardless of miles. I'm on track to drive 50k miles this year.

#54 11-07-2009, 12:03 PM

Good luck starting at -4F with 15w40 or at -20/30 with 5w40. There are more variables than pour point, like the capability of the starter.

dannym · #55 11-07-2009, 12:43 PM

Use the motor oil your owners manual says to use.

DAnny

Oldwolf · #56 11-25-2009, 02:24 PM

So...about 1250 miles into this change of M1TDT the level is down about 1/4" from full. What is that about 1/2 a quart? I could go 5000 miles on Delvac Super and the level didn't drop below full.

JHZR2 · #57 11-25-2009, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

15W has a pour point of Appox -30 deg C
5W has a pour point of Approx -45 deg C
Pour point: The pour point is the lowest temperature at which an oil will flow. This property is crucial for oils that must flow at low temperatures. A commonly used rule of thumb when selecting oils is to ensure that the pour point is at least 10°C (20°F) lower than the lowest anticipated ambient temperature.

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/pour_point.htm

In short... 15W is good to about -20 Deg C or -4 deg F

WOW... From a moderator. I expected better behavior.

I've stated my personal and profession opinion and quoted references/sources.

Your data is good, however pour point is a poor means of determining the cold flow characteristics of an oil. There are specific cranking viscosity tests, performed at different temperatures depending upon the "w-weight", e.g. 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, etc., which give better info.

In reality, some oils can actually qualify as both a 10w- and a 15w-, or similar.

I can give more info if desired.

#58 11-25-2009, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldwolf

So...about 1250 miles into this change of M1TDT the level is down about 1/4" from full. What is that about 1/2 a quart? I could go 5000 miles on Delvac Super and the level didn't drop below full.

That sounds about right for 5W40 if the engine is tight. My usage is similar.

JHZR2 · #59 11-25-2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldwolf

So...about 1250 miles into this change of M1TDT the level is down about 1/4" from full. What is that about 1/2 a quart? I could go 5000 miles on Delvac Super and the level didn't drop below full.

How long have you been running syn? Marshall Booth and I both found roughly the same tail-off profile, where with a healthy engine you'll see usage for 10-20k, than none.

Ofcourse if you have a leak or a faulty seal that sludge was keeping closed, you have another problem...

Oldwolf · #60 11-25-2009, 03:46 PM

This is my first use of synthetic oil. The engine has about 145k miles on it.