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#1
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240D third motor mount, t-mount
I replaced both engine mounts successfully, and also bought a replacement for the mount behind the oil pan, a t-mount. The mount that's on there has partially disintegrated and the rest is moosh ... but I can't get the big bolt on the crossmember out ... not even with an impact wrench. The car seems to run fine without it, and I've read it's not really necessary, but nonetheless, it bothers me not to finish projects. Is there a trick to that bolt? The "nut" on it is rectangular and doesn't seem to be turnable because of its dimensions. Just curious. Guess I can just leave the mooshy mount there, but I hate to waste the lovely new one I bought.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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If I remember correctly that big bolt is welded on, and you have to take the nut off the other end.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
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I remember that being somewhat of a bear to change on my '83 240D. I can't recall exactly, I would have to take a look, but I am pretty sure the bolt head was on the back of the cross member - it wasn't square though, just regular style. Although, there was this little metal retaining piece that swung over the bolt head. I didn't really understand it, but I guess it is there to keep the bolt from coming out should it ever loosen.
Anyway, I had the car up on ramps, and the way I got it to break free was to get a rachet on it so that the handle was pointing down towards the ground. Then, I slid my legs under the car from the driver's side and, while holding on tight to something underneath, I used my foot against the rachet handle to break it free. I was on tight and I knew I wasn't going to be able to break it with just my upper body strength in that cramped position.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#4
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Quote:
![]() I'll post a pic of the "nut" later, but it's odd. Could maybe turn it with channel locks, but it looks like it would just jam, even if it turned freely. The bolt head won't budge. I got an impact wrench securely on it, and it was no match for the bolt. Which is why I wondered if that funny nut was the key ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#5
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Agreed, but mine wasn't welded. Unless, I am not recalling the correct orientation of the bolt. I'll have to look.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#6
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Quote:
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__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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