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w126 front sway bar bushings
I need to change the sway bar bushings on my 83 300sd. The mount under the battery is accessible, but does anyone have suggestions on how to reach the left side under the fuse box without removing the brake master cylinder/booster? Can the fuse box be lifted out enough to reach the bolts?
Thanks for any tips. John
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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) 2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion 1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold 2006 E320 CDI |
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Quote:
Someone will have some way I'm sure...
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
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You may have to remove the under hood fire wall to gain access.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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Use the search function for this site.
There is a ton of information here. I did this on my '83 SD without taking any firewalls apart etc.
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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why. 1983 300SD, 4 speed 1994 C280 1987 300TD wagon 1996 HD Road King Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon |
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Search for "epic sway project" and you'll find my thread on this....you DO have to remove the outer firewall, along with the brake booster and master cylinder and all climate control hoses and the monovalve and aux pump and battery and battery tray. Its a "fun" project.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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I will kindly disagree unless you are replacing the entire sway bar. But for the bushings, nope.
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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why. 1983 300SD, 4 speed 1994 C280 1987 300TD wagon 1996 HD Road King Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon |
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Quote:
John
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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) 2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion 1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold 2006 E320 CDI |
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Quote:
If it is rusty down in there, now is your change to do repairs on it.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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job completed
Just a follow up to my original post. After receiving the bushings from Phil, I proceeded to change the right side, both the bushing under the battery and in the upper control arm. Pretty straight forward.
Thanks to Crash here on the forum, I tackled the left side without removing the brake M/C or booster. The clamp nuts can be accessed with an extension on the front and back side of the fuse box. Then pull the plastic cover in the wheel well that the sway bar goes thru. I destroyed mine and plan on using some canned foam to fill the gap. Loosen the nuts and pry the clamp off and spray some sort of lubricant on the bar and old bushing. It came out without much trouble. Lube the bar again and using some grunt work and a rubber mallet the new bushing can be seated. Reapply the clamp and bolts and your done. If you drop a socket down in behind the boost it's a bear to retrieve. Don't ask me how I know. I don't have huge hands but some of you guys might be a little cramped for space.
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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) 2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion 1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold 2006 E320 CDI |
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