I'll have to go get that picture later. Twas a family outing today. :)

And, I'm using a 1st gen trailing arm but, I suspect the 2nd gen is the same.

You solved the emergency brake cable mystery ??

Sweet, I gotta see that.

Resizing pictures ?
 

What can I use to re-size these pictures to the maximum allowable size here?

They're still on the camera's card as huge files.

Gimp is my favorite image manipulation program.
And its free
http://www.gimp.org/
But it is very large !

Photo shop is cool as hell.
But expensive and large as hell also.

The microsoft paint program will do the job.

Start/Programs/Accessories/Paint.

Then open your image.

Select " image " from the tool bar.
Then " Stretch/Skew " from the drop down menu.
In the dialog that opens enter a number less than 100 in the
horizontal and vertical fields.

Presto, shrunken images !

Thanks Rich...

I've got some upper respiratory crap now, no progress 'till I feel better.:mad: I'll work on the images.

Yesterday the trailing arms, axle carrier/sub frame and the 'new' 2.88 differential got a coat of POR15.

I also, got to try out the "self made tool" on the trailing arm bushings. Easy... so easy I pulled all four in about 20 minutes. Pushed one replacement in place in 5 minutes.

I had my Son In Law work this out for me, this is what we came up with.

I down load the pictures in the computer under 'MY Pictures"

1, highlight first picture - hold Control key then click each pic you want

2, R clk Highlighted picture.

3, clk Copy

4, R clk in the white space off to the side (drp down box) go down to New.

5, clk Folder

6, Name Folder. type in name you want to call this folder.

7, Hit Enter twice.

8, R clk

9, clk Paste

10, R clk Picture

11, clk Resize picture

12, clk Medium, or Small

13, clk View clk Details (hit delete to delete larger files, they will be in blue)

14, clk Size (Note: if they are larger than 73, then highlight first one hold shift key to get them all highlighted. then repeat 10 thru 13)

then in the forum when you post, click "Manage Attachments"

clk Browse
clk Up a level (green Arrow) over on the right top
Clk Folder
Double Clk Picture
clk upload

then it just clk browse double click picture. click upload untill you get a max of 5 pictures.

close window
Click Submit Message.


sounds like a lot a lot of steps, but then there is no programs to down load, the pictures come up as thumb nails. and will be on the forum for ever.
using an off site like Photo shop, the the pictures are there until the OP deletes them. that is why doing a search in a thread a few yrs back and there are just red X. doesn`t help the new guy down the road.

Charlie

Pictures
 

Brake caliper removed and safely hanging.

Left and right side sway bar links removed.

On wagons with SLS remove the panel behind the rear seat and remove the hydraulic lines from the top of the shocks. There is an extension piece that will need to be removed from the shock body before it will pass through the trailing arm. I left this piece on until the top attachment bolt was removed from the shock. I placed a box end over it and used it to keep the shock from turning while removing the top bolt.

Be sure to have the trailing arms supported with a floor jack.

Have some rags and a pan ready. I did not expect this much fluid to escape.

Remove the park brake cables from below the driveshaft.

Remove the center support bearing's two 13mm bolts.

Remove the rear flex disc bolts. You will need to gently pry the disc from the differential. Mark both driveshaft sections at the bearing with white paint to get the balance correct upon re-assembly. Move the driveshaft to a safe place.

Now it gets fun!
 

Loosen the two sub frame bushings (oops no picture)

Remove the rear differential mount.

Make sure you have the ass'y supported with a jack!

Lower entire rear ass'y.

Self made Bushing press
 

To make a press to remove and install the trailing arm bushings you will need the following:

12" long piece of 5/8 threaded rod and three nuts.

1 1/2" female pipe coupling

Two large washers with a 3/4" ID and an OD as large as the pipe coupling.

Two smaller washers with a 5/8 ID and an OD that will pass through the bushing hole. Only one needs to be able to pass thru. I ground one down to fit.

A 2-3" long piece of pipe 5/8-3/4"ID to fit over the threaded rod. I used the center tube from my bad bushing as it fell out when I removed the bolt.

JB Weld or strong epoxy.

Start by glueing one of the large 3/4"ID washers to the end of the pipe coupling. Glue one of the 5/8 washers to the top of that one. This could be welded but, there is little need as it is under compression during use.

Lock two of the nuts to one end of the threaded rod by tightening them together.

The other small washer that fits through the bushing hole is used to push the old bushing out using the small pipe as an extension to hold the "pulling nut".

The other large 3/4" washer is used to push the new bushing in place. It fits over the bushings center tube and presses on the proper section of the new bushing as not to damage it. The bushings have two metal sleeves. There is a possiblity of damaging the bushing if you push on the center sleeve. The 3/4" washer fits perfect over the bushing's center.

In order to remove the old bushing you will need to trim the lip off so it will go into the pipe coupler. I used an old steak knife.

Install the new bushing using the tool as shown. Use the large washer to pull it into place. Coat the bushing with Pledge or Behold furniture polish to aid installing. DO NOT USE OIL OR GREASE.

Also, only press until the lip meets the edge of the hole its going in. Test fit the trailing arm into the sub frame ass'y and press the bushing in further if needed. It's almost impossible to back them out a little without damage if you go too far.

Nice and clean. :D

Stay tuned...
 

More to come.

Painting and reassembeling ,hey now,your making us all look bad .