W123 1984 300TD wagon rear trailing arm bushings R&R
 

I'm undertaking this massive task at the moment on a '84 300TD. This is one job that looks like I don't want to have to repeat.

Rear hyd shocks pulled, brake calipers unbolted and safely hanging. Removed the left and right sway bay links, unbolted and dropped the exhaust.

I'm headed back out to remove the driveshaft, park brake cables, differential mount, subframe mounts...

Oh yea... I'd better take some pictures. This may take a few days.

Distracted by a house on fire just two down from me. :eek: The local FD was out on a brush fire and could not respond. I'm not sure much can be salvaged. I'll see if they need some clothes... tomorrow when things settle down a bit.

Back to the wagon.

The rear sub frame and suspension components are out, dismantled and received a thorough cleaning and inspection.

The right rear trailing arm bushings (mostly outer) are shot plus I found the wheel bearing to be a little rough on that same side.

Time to order more parts from Phil.

I have tons of pictures to resize.

Update
 

Yesterday I pulled a used right rear trailing arm from the W126 parts car subframe I had at the ranch. The W123 wagon uses the same part as the 1st gen W126s. I just need to swap out the park brake cable. I'll have to study that... :confused:

This trailing arm will solve my wheel bearing issue since I don't have the tools/time to rebuild the old one. I'll go ahead and press new bushings into it before it goes back on the wagons subframe.
I need to make a tool to do this. Tried the Autozone ball joint press on one of the bushings. Got one out but it is way too cumbersome...

I think I can make something with "all thread" washers and a piece of pipe.

I'll try to go back and edit and post pics when I'm finished.

FYI, This car has approximately 210K miles and has been well maintained. I found the rear trailing arm bushings to be hard and crumbling. I was beginning to drive and feel as if the rear tire pressures were low. A bit of wandering.

Cold front with rain. :mad: No progress this afternoon other than obtaining the pieces to make the bushing tool.

5/8"x12" all thread. (Tractor Supply w/cute check out girl)

Four nuts to fit the above. (T/S)

Two 5/8 ID washers (T/S)

Two 3/4" ID washers (T/S)

One 1 1/2" female pipe coupler (Lowes plumbing)

I could weld up some stuff but, I'm trying to come up with something for those without a welder.

The idea is to pull the old bushing out using the threaded rod into the 1.5" pipe coupler. You can then use this to pull the new bushing into place.

Pictures coming.

I'm sending Kudo's your way....:)

Thanks. I'd rather swap and engine than this...

RichC just had his wagon subframe in and out about four times. I stopped by and saw it up on jack stands. That was enough to convince me to get started on this one.

Four times??? :eek:

Yea, I think he told me four times.

He's trying to get around the SLS. He picked up a nice wagon that had a sedan engine installed by the PO. No SLS head and most of the other components had been removed. So, he's tried different combinations of springs, shocks...
Plus, He found a differential whine, dropped it out and put a 2.47 in.

I stopped by and helped him press in lower ball joints. At that time he had the entire front and rear suspension pulled. Should be a nice driver when he's done.

Whiskey Dan , My wagon has a touch of roll when at 65 ,it will keep you very active in watching the road will driving .Best way to describe it is a monkey rocking back and forth on the luggage rack ,oh yeah ,I checked.Is this the simptom your having.

This one felt as thought the rear tires were almost flat. The tail end walked with grooved pavement. Nothing drastic but it annoyed me. Plus, I wanted to get to the bottom of my whirring sound. I figured the noise was either the driveshaft support bearing or a wheel bearing. Turned out to be the rt wheel bearing although, it's getting a new shaft support bearing as well.

Pics yet?

I was reading on how you felt the car was loose. Can you look up into the area and see if that bushing is falling apart? Or is it hidden? I'm approaching the same mileage, so I am curious.

Yes, at least 4 times now.

Its getting easier each time.

Hopefully the shocks Dan found from the front of a 94 chevy c2500 will work out as rear wagon shocks.

Or the adjustable drag race shocks that I found on Summit racings site.

And the next time will be the last for a while.

Everyone should try a complete front and rear suspension rebuild on a wagon.

I guess we should have charged $30 admission to my driveway last weekend and made some money ??? :D

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The autozoo rental ball joint press worked well for me for pulling and replacing the trailing arm bushings.

Theres a place near the outer trailing arm bushing where you can insert a large flat screwdriver or prybar between the sub frame and trailing arm.
Gently prying there will show movement indicating worn/rotten bushings.

Great job, something I need to do next summer. we have 355,000 plus on the original bushings and axle bearings.

You use first gen 126 or second for the trailing arm. I see a lot of 126 at PNP from the clunker program, especially the second Gen. there is one now with 129,000. think it is a 560SEL


Every one wants pictures, me too, the cute check out girl :D.

Charlie

Rich, I'm not sure those shocks I found will work without serious mods.
You're more than welcome to them if you want to try to re-thread the top shaft. Even then, the dampening rate is a 'shot in the dark'.

Come get these shocks and show me how you used the az tool. For me It's too bulky/cumbersome to put these bushings in.

Tomorrow I need to make MB tool #112 589 09 61 00 to pull the park brake cable so, I'll be here with the kiddo.