Yea, I wanna see this threaded rod method.

Sorry, no pics of the threaded rod arrangement. Pretty basic though...

I used two 3/8" diameter 36" long rods thru the upper shock holes. Top end has two nuts jammed together and a washer beneath those.
The rod extends thru the spring and lower shock hole. Below the LCA is a plate (small piece of 2x4) with a hole and a captive nut on the bottom.

By turning the left and right rod(s) via the jammed nuts on top screws the bottom nut up the rod pulling the ass'y into place.
Once it's close to position I installed the front subframe bolts then the four diff mount bolts.
BTW, I learned the diff mount on a W126 chassis goes on 180 degree from the W123. Or, maybe I had it installed reversed.

Man, I am sore today, 1500mg of aceteminophen ain't cuttin' it. Maybe I can get a little more done later.

I was thinking the same thing with the differential mounts.

But never checked it, for sure.

FINISHED!

Man, I don't wanna ever have to do this again. :eek:

I had to swap out the parking brake cable as the W126 doner trailing arm has a shorter cable than the W123. The brake shoes have to be removed to get the cable end retainng pin out. Then you remove the 15mm bolt on the backing plate side and pull the cable. Re-assembly is a real pain dealing with the springs in such a tight space behind the hub. I found the cables to be a little stiff so, I lubed them as well as the P-brake adjuster mechanism.


There's an unbelievable difference in the way the rear suspension feels. It feels very tight compared to before where it felt as though the rear tires had low air pressures.
The rear "wander" is all gone, and with the new bearings and 2.88 diff it is eerily quiet/smooth.

I'm happy.:D

I'm in the process of replacing an SLS with stiffer, longer springs and IMCA
shocks on my wagon. This will increase the ride height, and offer greater
load capacity .. about 1,000 pounds, from testing.
http://franklynb.home.mindspring.com/617/dsc01615-m.jpghttp://franklynb.home.mindspring.com...dsc01615-m.jpg http://franklynb.home.mindspring.com...AGE_048-mm.jpg
It will also increase the positive camber at "no load" ...
so I'm wondering, do the 126 trailing arms have more camber
angle than the 123's <115 p/n>? or less?

Where did you get those springs ???

Custom wound to my calculations by Coil Spring Specialties in Kansas City.
I used the original SLS springs and the field service manual listings
as a basis, and worked out a 2" overall height increase with about 10% more
stiffness.

The shocks are 46mm Bilstein aluminum body/ 7" shafts; from ebay. I happen
to have a full set of shims, but didn't need them. The "test drive" with 14
70# sandbags in the back was dead level and handled better than I'd ever hoped.
Here's the "empty" ride height:
http://franklynb.home.mindspring.com/_617/lifted-m.jpg
I have it torn apart to add a rebuilt 3.64 diff and 16" wheels from a W140.
My newest "winter beater" -- hopefully on the road before spring!


Nice folks at CSP, courtesy of Brian Carlton's recco; very reasonable.

From what I remember the later W123 chassis used the same 126xxx part number rear trailing arm as the 1st gen W126 chassis. At some point in time (79???) there was a change in rear toe spec for the W123. The early W123 chassis also used the 115xxx part. So, I assume only the toe spec was changed. I doubt it will offer any more negative camber. I guess one could make encentric bolts/washers for the bushing holes. ;)


A working SLS is hard to beat. I've driven RichC's wagon with his modified rear suspension and although it sits level and drives very nice I still believe the SLS handles better. However, Rich had no option due to the missing SLS pump equipped head on its replacement engine.

No doubt.

A "missing SLS" <no pump, res, shocks, lines or valves anywhere in sight;
but the price was right! >, is even "harder to beat" judging from what I've seen
of previous attempts; but nothing but failure will stop me from trying.:D

I still dont like the ride height in the back of mine.

I like yours franklynb. It looks about 1 1/2 to 2 in higher than mine.

And I would prefer a stiffer feel to the rear suspension.



Were those mercedes spec bilstein shocks you found on ebay.

Or are they " universal / custom " ones ?

Bump for the brave who might want to tackle this job.

Old thread, new experiences to share.

Did my whole front end of my 1984 300TD (NA) last month and am working on the rear now.

Whiskeydan the man lead the way, and the black miracle paint ( same as POR 15?) is hardening on the beefy chunk o metal.

One trailing arm and bits done with grinder and phosphorous acid ready for paint. Never done the acid bit, but works fine...it is like magic.
Does anyone know if the acid has to be rinsed off? I did, just in case.

All cool and dandy. Apart from the subframe bushing...manoman...

I´ll try and get the pics in here. The bushing centerpiece ( aluminium cone around a steel sleeve glued in the rubber chunk) broke free in all I loosened so far. Three sofar.

The almost-thirty-year old is too tired.
The bolts are rusted in and didn´t budge no matter what.

My method; grind off a corner of the alu to the center steel sleeve, bonk it of and bonk the sleeve on an anvil to break the rust and stretch the sleeve so it comes of.

This one is shot so has to go.

I´ll take that from the 300TDT parts car. That motor will go in the sleeper-to-be.

More coming on the springs..

cheers,

Jan.

Coil Spring Specialties in KCMO
 

Hi, Franklyn. I called Coil Spring Specialties in Kansas City to see if I could emulate your order, and they had no record. Do you happen to have a copy of your original order or any of the dimensions you took so that I can forward them to Coil Springs Specialities and try what you did?

Let me know at your convenience. Thanks, Franklyn!