Separating Upper Control Arm from Spindle - Nut Spins! - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

AlexHart · #46 12-08-2009, 07:44 PM

Hi, all. I just ordered my "outer" bushings. Thank you, Brian, BB, Tango, toomany, etc.

I was looking for the UCAs. It looks like there is a difference between the ones used for the 1978-80 w123 models and the ones for 1981 and above. The FSM says something about a plastic cover on top of the ball joint starting in 1981, but I have no idea what the hell that means (much like most of everything else in the FSM). It also looks like there's a considerable price difference between the earlier ones vs. the latter ones. The part number on the earlier version is 123 330 4607 and 4707 (L & R). I can't find a part number for the latter ones. Can anyone shed light on this? Should I just go with the earlier, cheaper version? I'm not sure about the fit.

Thanks again.

Whiskeydan · #47 12-08-2009, 10:21 PM

Beware, you are likely to receive a right hand side upper control arm if you order a left side "FEQ" or other China made part.

The part number for the left side UCA is 123 330 4607, the right side is 123 330 4707. Same part number(s) for your '84.

Some (FEQ) of the right side UCAs have the left '4606' part number cast into them hence the confusion with the supplier.

Poor Phil had to deal with my *****in' about receiving the wrong part twice but, made it right by sending out a different brand.

AlexHart · #48 12-09-2009, 02:50 PM

Thanks, Whiskey. So it's the same part for all 300D/300CDs? From 1978 through 1985?

Diesel911 · #49 12-09-2009, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexHart

Thanks, guys.

Bodhi, one question about using the clamp. I'm thinking about how it would work. I feel like if I put a clamp on, it would attach to the area of the spindle right next to the stuck nut. With the clamp on, there won't be room to get to the nut with a ratchet. I'm picturing the clamp bolting onto right next to nut, where else would it clamp onto? If this is the case, how can I get the nut off?

If I don't get anywhere with the clamp and my buddy holding the spindle and the control arm together, I'll try the nut splitter. Diesel911, is the nut splitter just to break the nut off? And then I would need a new nut? Is that how it would work? Sounds promising.

Thanks again.

Sorry I did not get back to this thead. Yes, the Nut Spliter splits and expands the nut.

I wish I had checked on this thread sooner. If a Nut Splitter would not fit my next choice (if I did not have a Dremel tool with those tiny Cut Off Wheels) would be a really sharp Chisel (one for Metal to split the Nut); the Chisel of course has a good chance of damaging the threads; but you are going to replace the UCAs anyway.

AlexHart · #50 12-09-2009, 07:39 PM

Thanks, Diesel 911. I think I agree with the chisel idea. The guy at Advanced Auto suggested the same thing. I'll try it once I get the new UCAs. I don't think I'm going to be able to fit a nut-splitter in there.

AlexHart · #51 12-11-2009, 09:38 AM

Does anyone have any recommendations on which brand of ball-joint to go with? Does it matter? I bought Moogs at Advanced Auto for around $47. I can get LEMFORDER for around $51 on ebay. I'm thinking of returning the Moogs and going with the LEMFORDERs. Any thoughts, guys?

Whiskeydan · #52 12-12-2009, 09:57 AM

Lemforder.

AlexHart · #53 12-13-2009, 06:38 PM

Just ordered them. Should be here by next weekend.

Eric Eliel · #54 12-13-2009, 07:19 PM

Lemforder

(if it says Meyle, run away quickly....go Forest go)

funola · #55 12-13-2009, 08:29 PM

Did you get the nut off? I can't see how the taper on either the ball joint or the spindle can be damaged. What you have to do is jack it in such a way that the tapers engage each other so the ball joint can't spin, then the nut can be removed. When I replaced the UCA, I removed the nut from the ball joint first and the tapers separated from each other without me doing anything to it. They UCA ball joint tend to separate on their own (on my car any way). Not so with the lower ball joint.

AlexHart · #56 12-14-2009, 09:42 AM

I hope you're right, Funola. I haven't taken the nut off yet. I'm waiting for the UCAs to arrive just in case I damage the current ones when I try to remove the nut. I understand the concept of the tapers engaging, but when I first tried to get the nut off, the tapers were fully engaged and the ball wasn't spinning. The nut still wouldn't budge so the taper broke free (I'm assuming). Even if I re-engage the tapers, I'm not sure if the nut's just going to come off. It's on there pretty tight. Once I get all the parts, I'm just going to chisel it off. I guess I can try re-engaging and see how it goes.

funola · #57 12-14-2009, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexHart

I hope you're right, Funola. I haven't taken the nut off yet. I'm waiting for the UCAs to arrive just in case I damage the current ones when I try to remove the nut. I understand the concept of the tapers engaging, but when I first tried to get the nut off, the tapers were fully engaged and the ball wasn't spinning. The nut still wouldn't budge so the taper broke free (I'm assuming). Even if I re-engage the tapers, I'm not sure if the nut's just going to come off. It's on there pretty tight. Once I get all the parts, I'm just going to chisel it off. I guess I can try re-engaging and see how it goes.

I took a look at my UCA and its geometry in relation to the spindle. With the weight of the car sitting on the wheel, the UCA ball joint taper is forced together. What you want to do is put the car down with weight on wheels, remove that pesky nut, jack the car back up with the wheel hanging and it should separate naturally. If not hit the ball stud with a brass hammer and it should separate.

AlexHart · #58 12-14-2009, 04:51 PM

I'v already tried unscrewing the nut with the car on the ground. It still spins. No luck.

funola · #59 12-14-2009, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexHart

I'v already tried unscrewing the nut with the car on the ground. It still spins. No luck.

Did you try tightening the nut first (car on ground) to engage the taper, then take the nut off? If the nut spins when you tried to tighten it, did you try to hammer down on the ball joint to engage the taper, then tighten/ loosen?

AlexHart · #60 12-14-2009, 05:03 PM

Thanks, funola. Yup, the nut spins even when I tighten. What do you mean by "hammer down"? Hammer on top of the UCA to get it tight into the spindle? If I hammer up on the ball joint stud, it will undo the taper, right?? Not sure what to do...

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