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  #16  
Old 12-13-2009, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
UH.... I have not seen any mention of the TINY and RADIALLY drilled holes in the precombustion chamber...

I think those two adjectives completely negate the pressure of the spray coming out of the injector as a cleaning or power driving force.

I think the precombustion chambers need to be pulled and cleaned and the bore vacuumed. Even if that is not the cause of the present non start condition carbon should not be left in that location. The cleanliness of those holes is important... as is the existence/condition of the pintle ball which disperses the fuel towards them.
What is the pintle ball
Cheers.
Olivier

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Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #17  
Old 12-13-2009, 03:52 PM
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It is a little ball shaped rod which the injector sprays towards and it deflects the fuel out towards the top of the piston...
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  #18  
Old 12-13-2009, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
It is a little ball shaped rod which the injector sprays towards and it deflects the fuel out towards the top of the piston...
Never heard of this. Thank you.
Where is it?
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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #19  
Old 12-13-2009, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olivier View Post
What is the pintle ball
Cheers.
Olivier
Red Arrow points to the Ball Pin
Attached Thumbnails
reamed glow plugs, now won't start in warm weather!-zz.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 12-13-2009, 05:14 PM
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Thank you Diesel 911,
Sorry to sound dumm but I cannot figure out where it is?
50 is the injector
53 the injecting point
81 the glow
The ball canno be on the piston?
Cheers.
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #21  
Old 12-13-2009, 05:33 PM
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tried a 2 week old interstate battery, still wont start.

like i said before i hooked up all the glow plugs directly to the battery to make sure they glowed red hot. just now i went out and pulled the plugs again, and cranked the engine twice for about 10 seconds each time. i put a piece of cardboard over the glow plug holes to see what came out- got some nice black stains on the cardboard, but no chunks of carbon or anything that would have obviously been blocking the precombustion holes.


of course i put everything back together and it just cranks but wont start, it doesnt even sound like it wants to start.

i made sure there's no air in the fuel system; lines were cracked at injectors and cranked until i could see fuel coming out, then tightened.

how do i pull the precombustion chambers? i bought monark nozzles and am just waiting on mcmaster-carr for parts for my pop tester, which should be in tomorrow. when the injectors are out i'll verify that the glow system is working, maybe do a compression test? what else could this be caused by?
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  #22  
Old 12-13-2009, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biotour View Post
tried a 2 week old interstate battery, still wont start.

like i said before i hooked up all the glow plugs directly to the battery to make sure they glowed red hot. just now i went out and pulled the plugs again, and cranked the engine twice for about 10 seconds each time. i put a piece of cardboard over the glow plug holes to see what came out- got some nice black stains on the cardboard, but no chunks of carbon or anything that would have obviously been blocking the precombustion holes.


of course i put everything back together and it just cranks but wont start, it doesnt even sound like it wants to start.

i made sure there's no air in the fuel system; lines were cracked at injectors and cranked until i could see fuel coming out, then tightened.

how do i pull the precombustion chambers? i bought monark nozzles and am just waiting on mcmaster-carr for parts for my pop tester, which should be in tomorrow. when the injectors are out i'll verify that the glow system is working, maybe do a compression test? what else could this be caused by?
You did not verify power is getting to the glow plugs. Clip a test light to one of the GP's, turn key on, test light should light up.
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  #23  
Old 12-13-2009, 06:13 PM
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Try a small shot of Ether (starting fluid).

P E H


















0
0.
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  #24  
Old 12-13-2009, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olivier View Post
Thank you Diesel 911,
Sorry to sound dumm but I cannot figure out where it is?
50 is the injector
53 the injecting point
81 the glow
The ball canno be on the piston?
Cheers.
The Ball Pin is in the Precombustion Chamber (Prechamber); Fuel starts buring in the Precobustion Chamber first.

Below is a pic but of an older Mrecedes engine (it has the Loop Style Glow Plugs instead of the ones like yours).

The Read Arrow still points to the Ball Pin.
Inside of the Yellow Circle is the Precombustion Chamber
The Green lined area is where th piston goes.

On your Engne the Bottom of the Precombustion Chamber is rounded instead of flat like the one in the pic.
Attached Thumbnails
reamed glow plugs, now won't start in warm weather!-engineb.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 12-13-2009 at 06:40 PM.
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  #25  
Old 12-13-2009, 07:18 PM
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i assume power is getting to glow plugs; ive been using the interior dome light, it dims when glow is on, gets brighter when the relay clicks off. i'll test with the voltmeter tomorrow. its pretty dark outside now.
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  #26  
Old 12-13-2009, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biotour View Post
i assume power is getting to glow plugs; ive been using the interior dome light, it dims when glow is on, gets brighter when the relay clicks off. i'll test with the voltmeter tomorrow. its pretty dark outside now.
If the lights dim with glow on, you are getting power to them. Did you snug all 5 nuts on the glow plug wires? I had one loose nut and had hard starts. Is it possible you left it on veg? Cold engine on veg will have a hard time starting. Did you try plugging in the block heater? Next thing I would sugest is a compression test. Maybe a valve or 2 is not closing completely due to debri?

Resist all temptations of ether. If you can't, make sure the glow plug connector to the glow relay is unplugged.
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  #27  
Old 12-13-2009, 08:59 PM
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ive never been tempted to use ether. it doesn't fix the cause of the hard start; it really just makes matters worse.

all the nuts are tight. its not running on veg, its definitely diesel that came out of the hard lines while purging the air. i dont have a block heater, and although i am planning on doing a compression test, i don't see how the compression could have changed all of a sudden to cause this issue. i havent been running veg lately since its been so cold out, and the car has previously been starting fine in these temps. i was only having trouble starting below freezing which is why i reamed the glow plug holes in the first place. and now it doesnt work at all!

thinking maybe i will add fuel to the tank (its at about 1/4 tank) and bleed out the fuel lines again. maybe there are still some bubbles in the lines. also i will be rebuilding my injectors with monark nozzles and will be pop tested and i'm shooting for 2100psi since it runs veg. is 2100 psi an acceptable target? while the injectors are out i'll pour 1/5 of a quart of marvel mystery oil into each cylinder to possibly free up stuck rings, as well as run the glow system to verify the glow plugs are actually working.

i'll let the cylinders soak for at least a couple days to a week, then crank over with both injectors and glow plugs removed to get the oil out. then button it back up and hope it works..
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  #28  
Old 12-13-2009, 09:21 PM
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Carbon that you reamed off could have gotten on the valve seats and prevent it from fully closing, causing compression loss. The only way to tell is by doing a compression test. Do you have clear fuel lines on the inlet to and return from the IP? You should have no bubbles in either line. Don't try too many things at the same time. You're in SF. How cold is it there?
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  #29  
Old 12-13-2009, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biotour View Post
ive never been tempted to use ether. it doesn't fix the cause of the hard start; it really just makes matters worse.

all the nuts are tight. its not running on veg, its definitely diesel that came out of the hard lines while purging the air. i dont have a block heater, and although i am planning on doing a compression test, i don't see how the compression could have changed all of a sudden to cause this issue. i havent been running veg lately since its been so cold out, and the car has previously been starting fine in these temps. i was only having trouble starting below freezing which is why i reamed the glow plug holes in the first place. and now it doesnt work at all!

thinking maybe i will add fuel to the tank (its at about 1/4 tank) and bleed out the fuel lines again. maybe there are still some bubbles in the lines. also i will be rebuilding my injectors with monark nozzles and will be pop tested and i'm shooting for 2100psi since it runs veg. is 2100 psi an acceptable target? while the injectors are out i'll pour 1/5 of a quart of marvel mystery oil into each cylinder to possibly free up stuck rings, as well as run the glow system to verify the glow plugs are actually working.

i'll let the cylinders soak for at least a couple days to a week, then crank over with both injectors and glow plugs removed to get the oil out. then button it back up and hope it works..

If you put in the Marvel Mystey Oil besure to leave the Injectors or the Glow Plugs out of the Engine and crank it good to blow out any excess Oil. You do not want to cause any sort of hydraulic lock in the Cylinder.

Before you start doing that whole list of things above you need to get it started the way it is now.

You could buypass your Fuel Tank Completely buy installing a longer Rubber Fuel inlet Hose and putting it in a Clean Container of Diesel Fuel; enough Fuel to run the Engine at idle for awhile mabe 1-2 Liters. You would need to hand prime it again.
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  #30  
Old 12-13-2009, 09:36 PM
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There has been several instances on the Forum of members who have gone from Veggie to Diesel only and have had some problems with Fuel Delivery and Injection.
Maybe someone can remember one of the Threads and Post it for you.

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