Thank you for the post!. I agree now that I have the vac I can utilize the search function!

I am going to test and report my findings shortly as I dont have to go to work today!!!!!!!

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1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000

Okay. So the line going into the top of the vcv tees and one line goes into the top of the vcv and the other line goes to the transmission. Assuming this is set up correctly I have the following results.

At idle in park I get a reading of 17 going into the vcv. Then the line going to the transmission reads maybe 1. It looks like the vcv is leaking and stealing the vac from the transmission. It makes sense that the vcv would have the ability to regulat the vac from high to zero, but should it be sending no vac to the transmission at idle. Also when I rev up the motor the vac line to the transmission remains at zero. Maybe you have to be ingear for the line to the transmission to have any vac.

Is my vcv shot?

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1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000

if i can put up with it,wouldnt i want a nice firm shift?i like the chirp of first to secong gear shifts when accelerator is on the floor too.is there less wear on the trans the less time it spends between shifts?does milage come into play here when firming shift???
What are the pros and cons of just disconnecting the vacuum line before the transmission and plugging it?

I presume that you removed the line from the VCV and attached the gauge. At that point, the reading was 17.

Then you reconnected the hose to the top of the VCV and disconnected the line to the transmission. You then connected the gauge to the end of the T where the transmission line had been.

If I am correct in these assumptions............because your posting details were inadequate...........then the VCV is shot and must be replaced.

We need pictures or your vacuum routing.

The following is what the bowden cable replaced on later models:

Check the linkage from the passenger side of the transmission to your throttle linkage, for damage, warped, binding, broken..
There is a bushing in the transmission end of the rod, it is common for it to disintegrate.
A/T Kick-Down Rod Bushing
MB# 110 277 05 50

Fastlane:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1641458

So last night I believe the transmission went out on me. It made one big slip then wouldn't go in to any forward gears. When I checked the transmission fluid level it was low. When I added more fluid it didnt correct the problem.

With the way it was shifting before the big faliure I think that I am going to roll the dice on a new transmission. I found a used one here locally for $250. It seems like a decent deal.

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1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000

The transmission information in these threads is fantastic! However, I have a questions that I have not seen yet. I just installed both the K1 and K2 springs )pi nk and purple) in my junkyard refugee. They made a significant difference but I still have an occasional flare on both the 2-3 and 3-4 shift. At hard acceleration it isn't noticable.

My question is that the Superior Kit has lots of springs and directions that make sense for a transmission mechanic (which I am not). Included was a separate plastic envelope withe two small springs marked "Diesel Model". I think the springs are supposed to be installed inside the larger springs that replace the inside assembly. But, they are different sizes and the instructions do not say which goes with the K1 or which with the K2. I installed just the large colored springs in place of the plastic and spring assembly (both assemblies seemed to be in fairly good shape). I did not pull the valve body or replace anything else. I did change the filter and used full synthetic ATF. I had the B-whaterver done by a transmission shop last year (The car was "new" and I had little confidence in my mechanical abilities.)

Should I have installed the two small springs also as indicated on one of the instruction pages(s)? If so, which goes into the K1 and which goes into the K2. From the drawing with the springs, it looks like the short spring goes inside of the purple K1 and the longer of the two small springs goes into the pink K2. I am talking about the accumulator, not the control valves.

I also tightened the bowden cable until it seemed to be constant light pressure. Now the shift into first or reverse from park is quite hard (a noticable clunk and it feels like someone hit the back of the car). The 1-2 is not noticable except on the tach, the 2-3 and 3-4 have occasional light flare under normal acceleration. I can easily live with what I've got, but would prefer to make it a little smoother.

The refugee is an 82 300D turbo with 199,000+ miles.

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Better, Faster, Cheaper, pick two.

What's the vacuum level going to the VCV at idle?

As I recall, the guage read 18" Hg at idle and went to zero at full throttle. If there is a vacuum leak, I can't find it. I have not rebuilt any vacuum stuff, just disconnected the door locks and plugged the line with a golf tee and did the same with a couple of climate control valves. I went through the vacuum troubleshooting a while back. The system was about 1" Hg low, but the parts that are supposed to hold vacuum do so.

I left yesterday because I didn't think anyone was still on the forum (and dinner was ready).

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Better, Faster, Cheaper, pick two.

If the 18" value is correct, that would be your problem. The figure should be adjusted to approx. 12" at idle, or less. I have the SD at 8" for very crisp shifts and additional transmission durability.

I measured the vacuum at the T line from the brake booster going to the transmission I thought was the corect place according to the troubleshooting post that I was using. If that is not the correct place, then I will have to cehck and get back to you.

The car is 123.133, 617.952 engine and 722.315 transmission. I think.

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Better, Faster, Cheaper, pick two.