Thanks,

gosh, how does one go about replacing this washer without messing up the timing chain tension?

edit: OK. quick reply thanks!

How does the tensioner provide tension? is it the inner plug relation to the outer plug? Thus if I just remove the outer plug, replace the washer, and screw it back into the head, then the tension will be the same?

The tensioner assembly operates as a self regulating hydraulic cylinder with engine oil pressure providing the operating force and an internal spring valve assembly providing positioning force when operating oil pressure is absent. There is an oil gallery connection to the tensioner assembly inside the cylinder head, hence the need for a seal ring! The smaller outermost hex opens up the tensioner's internal section and should not be screwed with! If someone where simply removing a working tensioner from an engine that had recently been running; the tensioner is removed using the innermost larger 27 mm hex section, it simply unscrews, put a new seal ring in place, and reinstall the tensioner torqued to 65 Nm. With a new tensioner or in your case now a tensioner that may not have been sufficiently oil pressurized the safe route would be to, take steps to ensure that the tensioner is refilled with engine oil by placing it standing up, plunger end down in enough oil to cover most of the collar now below the large hex. The plunger is pressed to the stop 7-10 times slowly. This will refill the tensioner body with oil and prevent the possibility that the timing chain will be insufficiently tensioned at the first start up possibly causing the timing chain to jump a tooth.

Your later vehicle almost certainly has the most recent updated Tensioner assembly part and therefore uses a seal ring that measures 27 mm ID X 32 mm OD.

If you can find and access an online FSM the tensioner assembly info is located in Section 05.10-310

Thanks for the detailed info. That should get me back on the road!