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#31
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#32
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If you're desperate in cold weather and need to get started, pull the top off the air cleaner and shoot a hair dryer directly down into the intake after glowing a few times. Alternatively, you might try a propane torch to do the same thing but there's usually a lot of oil hanging around the intake and also a lot of plastic so I'd be cautious about an open flame. You could also take a couple of cookie sheets, cover them with hot charcoal bricquets and slide them under the engine and let sit for a half hour or so.
Also be sure to add Powerservice if there's any doubt about the viscosity of your fuel. I started my 85TD at 30 below zero once but it wouldn't stay running because the fuel gelled. If you're life depends upon it and you absolutely must use ether or die in the wilderness, pull the strip fuse on the glow plugs or unplug the glowplugs from the harness and start it with the ether alone and no glow plugs. Alternatively, if you know you're going to be outside the range of electricity and need a way to warm up the engine, there are propane fired camping showers available on the market with small battery power circulating pumps. Plumb some fittings into the heater lines and hook the 'shower' up to your engine and run it for a half hour or so to heat up your coolant.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#33
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
#34
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I had the same problem last week. My car starts just fine on temps over 20 degrees, but refused to start when it was even a single degree below that, so I went to Target and got me a $49 battery pack and that was all the difference. If your battery is just old, the battery pack won't do you any good, but if your car starts fine otherwise, the little thing comes in real handy.
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[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman 1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang" [SIGPIC] 1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could) 1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford) 2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride) Gone: 1988 Toyota Pickup 2004 Subaru Outback 1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk. 1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P. ![]() 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT |
#35
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Camp Stove
I remember hearing something about the Germans burning fires under their tanks to get them started during cold World War II winters. However, I'm not sure if those were diesel or gas motors...
Along the same lines, in a pinch, you could do as kerry recommended, and use charcoal underneath. You can also keep a small camp stove in your rig. Those things output some serious BTUs, and would heat up your oil pan in no time. It's not a bad addition to an emergency winter survival kit.
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-1985 300TD - 324k mi on chassis. MB "Tauschaggregat" 617 motor + 4-speed conversion Alaska Roadtrip 2009 -2002 E320 Wagon - 197k mi -1998 E320 Wagon - 310k mi - retired |
#36
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I will crank it till it starts(after 2 glows), that may be the major issue. I was afraid I would toast the starter. I added the the lower rad hose heater today and will see how it works in the AM. It will be alot warmer though (15 F) I also added a gallon of Kero to 3/4 tank Diesel. I will report back, Thanks for the tips!
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#37
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OOPs already posted, Instead of the time and effort buy a quality jump box and keep it indoors with you. Not only can you use it for this but will find other uses.
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92 500E Silver 66k 82 Porsche 911SC 84K 68 Cadillac ( Gone Now ) 03 Suburban Z71 200K 85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad ) |
#38
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One word........ Thermite
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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday ![]() ![]() ![]() white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank) desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation) http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png |
#39
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#1. Bad glow plugs #2. Valves not adjusted #3. Weak battery and/or starter #4. Bad/Poor ground from body to engine #5. Engine oil to thick for the ambient temperature/climate. Winter Cold starting issues that are 2%: * Plugged filters * Diesel jelled = summer fuel, contaminated fuel and/or extreme cold ambient temperature. * Bad o-rings and/or hoses leaking air in the fuel system when cold. Glow plugs link thread All diesel models http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/137732-glow-plugs-link-thread.html#post1019018 Starter health is important to your diesel!!! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/107318-starter-health-important-your-diesel.html#post739798 Cold weather starting links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/137674-cold-weather-starting-links.html#post1018529 .
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#40
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Conditions for start are at their peak at the first cycle of injection and it is essential that fuel be injected at this time as they deteriorate very rapidly thereafter. If well-atomized fuel is injected into a combustion chamber on the 1st cycle with a white-hot glow plug and hot air it WILL vaporize and ignite - no ifs, buts or maybes. It’s not a compression issue. Churning over the engine serves only to bleed the fuel system and flatten your battery – the golden opportunity has been missed! Over 90% of genuine cold start issues are injection or start technique related – i.e. Fuel has not been injected from the critical first cycle and this can usually be easily fixed (leaking D-Valves ~ injector pintels ~ fuel lift pump). If your car does not fire on the first pot in summer every time you have a delivery problem that will haunt you in winter. After browsing through a few of the above linked threads I was unable to find one post that described the correct cold start procedure. ![]()
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Beagle |
#41
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* Turn key on to the glow position. * Ignore the light. * LISTEN for the clunk of the glow plug relay disengaging/turning off, (extreme cold -20° F or lower, you may need to glow twice before cranking in). * Apply 1/10 - 1/8 throttle = just enough to assure the engine speed will be above 1000 RPM. * Crank the engine up to 30 seconds . |
#42
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#43
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crank the engine up to 2 minutes... NO MORE!!! 30 seconds is not enough with a motor suffering from many starting issues, and letting off in short time will seriously prevent the motor from starting. I agree, no throttle until the motor begins to catch.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#44
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On the 190d I give it 1/4 inch = just a light touch. On my 300SD everything is perfect, no throttle needed. Wifes car needs 1/4 throttle or it won't start below 20° F, tweaking/repairing ASAP. |
#45
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I agree, you need to develop a feel for each car. My (old) 300D engine would start at any temperature without throttle, and the warm idle was set at about 500-550; I usually need to feather the throttle just a little on the 240D or it will stall (unless I use the idle knob).
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