How does Beck-Arnley compare with the Irwiss?

Beck-Arnley is just a reseller, like buying store brand pork and beans vs Campbell. Iwis is the best, and the only one I would trust. The Beck-Arnley might be an Iwis, but might not be....

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I did use the Beckly_Arnley. As I remember it is made in Japan. You have to break the link, as it is a continous chain. Then their splice link uses c-clips to hold the link in place. I did pean mine in place. I did by a link from Phil. IWIS I would guess. It had a lot bigger diameter pins. I couldn't use it to crimp the heads on, like I wanted to. So, with all that, I'd get an IWIS chain to begin with. I'll probably replace the B-A chain in a few years, or when other projects get done. Time and money.
Tom

IWIS only!!!

Here is a thread explaining why..

Warning, Danger: Please read this thread FIRST...
Need Automotive Grade Prozac
Need Automotive Grade Prozac = timing chain






Have a great day.

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I will be going with the IWISS.Thank you all. Also how do I know if I need a new shoe or guide for the chain?What do I look for is it just the upper one you have to be concerned with?Is it all right if I just replace the spring in the tensioner or replace nothing or the whole tensioner? I want to do the job right but not put in parts that are not needed.

Besides the thread that Hunter pointed out there is another thread that shows a comparison of 2 Timing Chains.
The Iwis Chain had excellent fit off the chain Rollers and the Pins on the Chaing were of a larger diamenter.
The other chain had extremely sloppy fit of the Rollers and smaller Pin diameters.

From what I have read on the Forum members have suggested that the minimum stuff to replace is the Chain itself, the largest Chain Tensioner Shoe and the Tensioner Spring.

If you have an Engine with no Turbo the complete Chain Tensioner set up is suggested to be replaced instead of just the Tensioner Spring.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I replaced all the 'shoes' and tensioner. I also used new pins, for each 'shoes'. If I did it again, I would replace the tensioner and its shoe. It was the most worn, or actually, the only one showing any wear. THe others just showed some scratches. I have/had around 250k to 300k on the motor at that time. The Odometer was broken, so I went with what the previous owner's estimate.
The bottom two, are a bit of work to get to. They showed virtually no wear. I actually had to reuse one of them as the replacemnt didn't fit. I remember I had to pull the harmonic balancer and the vacuum pump, to have enough room to get finger in there. The top one, you might replace as it is the easiest. I hear it doesn't break, unless your tensioner gets weak. The the chain is slapping it constantly.
So, ISIW chain, tensioner and tensioner shoe with the pin that holds it in. I remember I had to take off the cam sprocket, and move the chain to the PS pump side of the engine. I used wire to hold tension on it, when there. Maybe not the best way to do it though.
Tom

newbie here with a 98 E300 @ 195K mi.
what is the general consensus on timing chain replacement interval?
thanks

The numbers I've seen here suggest at least 250,000 to 300,000. My '96 is still on its original timing chain.

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From what I have read on the forum you find some at 250,000 milse have 3 degrees of Chain stretch and some with the same milage will have 6 degrees of Chain Stretch.

So it is hard to predict at what point the Chain would start causing a problem.

I am guessing that the Chain life is highly dependant on how often the Oil was changed and if the correct Oil was used.

Also I think the Crankshaft Gear that is the smallest Gear and the one that works the hardest must get worn also. But, it is ignored when a new Chain is rolled in.

And, then there is the Oil Pump Chain and Tensioner? Another Can of worms.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

So 3 degrees of stretch is the indication for replacement of the chain? If I understand the procedure, this involves removing the valve cover. Does the VC gasket need to be replaced every time?
thanks for the advice.

Not necessarily but, if its been awhile replace. Heat and oil cause them to degrade. Most become hard and brittle before they are replaced once the valve cover finally comes off for one reason or another. They are not that expensive.

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