I'll give the temp wheel rheostat fix a try and see what it accomplishes.

The coolant is still leaking tho, even tho I installed the rubber seal on top of the thermostat correctly (I had a knowledgable friend look at it and he said it was ok) and all 3 bolts are very very tight.

Its leaking out of the edge of the housing and at the bottom screw tho...

I tried the wheel rheostat fix but Im not sure if I did it right. I didn't go NEARLY 5 inches in, I caught a gear (out of sight) with the tool about 1-2 inches in and turned it, but nothing happened, heat or cold didnt change at all.

Tony

Oh and Can-Do: I don't get ANY heat, ANY time. Not from ANY vent, ANY where. (Enough anys? )

The temperature changes based on what the weather is like outside and I cant change it at all.

Tony

Ok now Im really angry. I went out tonite to work on can-do's heater fix, I ended up taking the entire panel off to get at the gear and it did not even fix it, but thats not what Im mad about:

The car won't start now. My first thought was "dead battery" so I had it jump started and ran it for a good 20 minutes and then switched it off, let it sit for about 15 seconds, and tried to start it again. Even deader than when I first got in the car. It makes this pitiful wailing noise (the noise which says key is inserted into ignition but its really weak and the wrong pitch), and the dash lights barely register. It wont even click when I turn the key, nothing at all happens. I then tried cleaning the battery leads which were already extremely clean. Didnt help.

Whats the problem now? Dead battery? Dead alternator? Engine about to fall off? My car is the anti-christ?

these cars take A TON of power to start. I think 80amps was once told to me. If you kept starting it and stopping often then you could have killed the battery. When you say ran for 20 minutes you meant driving it right? these engines don't produce much power idling, so idling does next to nothing for a dead battery. A quick test to see if you alternator is working is to measure the voltage at the battery with the car running and the engine at about 1500rpm. Should be at about 14volts. EVen if it is showing voltage the reg could be shot, but this would give you a decent idea. Try charging it overnight. If it won't hold a charge then you know your problem. I got a new battery for 55 bucks from autozone with a pro-rated warranty for 10 years. Not too shabby. Hope this helps,
Ryan

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

I know these cars take a ton of power to start, but its not like I drive it a lot. I usually start it up once a day and run it for 10-15 minutes (mostly idling) and work on fixing the coolant leak.

The battery should not have been deader than when I started the car tho, it had enough power to run the hi-beams before i jump started it, after I jumped it and turned it off not even enough power to run the headlights PERIOD.

Tony

Greetings,

Where in my post did I mention removing any component ? This was not necessary. The thin metal can be positioned between the temp wheel and the dash housing. The next question I wonder about is if you went in the right direction or reversed my instructions? I'd say the dead battery is a result of one of the following. Corroded battery terminals or wires, overhead light left on while troubleshooting heater, dead cell in the battery to begin with or starter solenoid problems.


Charles

__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan

Tony:

The starter draws 950 amps when starting the car. If it doesn't start right up, and it may not cold, think of how many amps it draws times the amount of time you crank. Your alternator, at idle, will only put out 10 amps or so, no more. Have to get the engine up to 1500 rpm to get max output.

Starting the car every day and idling it for 10 minutes will usually give you a dead battery on a diesel -- this is why over-the-road truckers don't shut them off every time they stop.

Take your battery to a battery shop or car parts place and get it checked out. Dollar to a donut it is both tired and the wrong one -- there seems to be a disease amongst used diesel owners that causes them to buy a cheap gasoling engine battery that works OK when the weather is good, but isn't enough when it gets cold. Since the battery is too small, it won't provide sufficient current to start the engine properly, you crank too long, take the charge down too far, the plates swell and crack, and you have a bad battery. I've seen it any number of times.

The proper battery is BIG and expensive -- I use the Sears Dihard International series, ran me $95 last time I bought one. Fills the entire battery tray, weighs a ton, and starts my car every time.

After you get the battery charged or replaced, take the car to an automotive electrical place and get the charging system checked -- if you've got a diode out on the alternator, or a bad voltage regulator, it won't charge the battery -- same story, it gradually goes dead.

Your lack of heat sounds like no heater core circulation (do the hoses get warm to the heater?), a servo problem (air from the wrong vents, no heat since no air goes through the heater core), or a pushbotton control unit problem. Lots of threads on these, and I don't have this model. Believe it or not, I've heard of the heater hoses being plugged -- when the monovalve goes, you get heat all the time, and somone "fixes" it in the summer by plugging the heater hose! Works fine when it's hot, but no heat when it's cold!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

just to re-iterate my battery buying experiance. I did actually get the right sized battery for that price. I had the guy check the numbers 3 times b/c i didn't beleive it was that cheap eaither. It's the autozone name brand but it seems to have no problems. The size is the exat same size as the interstate battery that it replaced. Hopefully it own't conk out on me, but if it does i have the interstate battery that was actually good still sitting in the garae. If shippig wasn't so much i'd ship it to anthony
Ryan

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

Ryan:

I no longer buy batteries at Autozone -- they don't last, doesn't matter what battery or car.

I suspect it is cheaper because it has less lead in it -- was it also lighter or smaller than the one in there? If so, it won't last as long, and will be less tolerant of discharge.

I can crank the Volvo for probably 10 minutes total before it won't go any more on the Diehard. Slowed down after about 5 on the Autozone. Never tried an Autozone in the 220D -- wont' fit.

Starting a diesel in cold weather can take 20 sec or so, even in good shape. The Autozone battery doesn't have enough material in it to do this all winter.

Sorry, its meerly a matter of amount of lead and acid to hold and deliver enough juice.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

that may very well be. I didn't notice the autozone one being lighter, but it doesn't mean that it isn't. I live in florida so as long as the autozone can crank for 2 seconds i'm fine! thanks
Ryan

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

Ok Im taking the car to the campus autoshop tomorrow morning to have them take a look at the coolant leak and the rear suspension accumulators. I'll have them charge the battery and look at the heater as well if they can.

Oh, and does anyone know a good place near dallas (preferably south from dallas) to get my MB worked on if I cant fix it myself?

Thanks

so youve decided to keep the old girl?

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

Nothing would please me more.

If they fix the heater Im keeping her for sure. If they even find out whats wrong with the heater and its under 250 bucks to fix, I'll keep her.

Tony

How cold does it get in Dallas??
I live in the Seattle area and all I get is heat from the def. (and not that much, no blower) So far I've been fine, a little cold some mornings but not to bad. The temps have been in the high 30's low 40's.