Hey gang:

Now the the weather has warmed a little, I have decided to plunge back into rebuilding the 240D. I have the tranny out to rebuild the clutch, but now I can't decide if I should open up the tranny or not.

I didn't drive the car much before the clutch went, but I don't recall any noticable problems during the brief time I did drive it. However, upon draining out the ATF I did notice a some metal specks in the fluid. I know this is normal to some degree, especially on an older gearbox. However, there is also a little play in the input shaft.

So the question is, should I mess with it, or just leave it be until there really is a problem?

Also, I decided to take the shift levers off to clean them up. I removed the allen bolt from each and slid the levers out. Everything seemed to go well when replacing them, but now I can't get the middle lever (3-4 lever I believe) to go back on, I can slide the lever back in, but the bolt doesn't line up - whatever it screws into in there moves enough to not allow it to line up straight. What gives?

Thanks in advance.

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

bump

thoughts anyone?

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

At that mileage I wouldn't expect any internal issues with the transmission, so I wouldn't open it up. Do check your shift bushings before you stick it back in.

I've never taken the shift levers off one, so I'm not sure what's keeping your's from going back on right.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

This is an MT? It was filled with ATF likely for easy cold morning shifts, but AT is a lousy MTF. What did MB spec for it? Likely a 75w- GL4 lube or similar.

Could be poor additives for wear protection, sitting dry, etc. I wouldnt worry about it much unless it is noisy or whiny. Figure out and get the right fluid in there first!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Mention of the clutch going out would be the first clue

You say this based on what information?

Most years, the manual called for Dexron III ATF. There were a couple of years where they speced one of the lighter weights of motor oil, but then they switched back to reccommending ATF. In addition to research on this site, I also asked the dealer what to use in my MT 240D, and they also said Dexron III.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Yup, it is a MT. I think MB actually called for ATF Type A. Others have suggested us 10W-30 motor oil. I will think more about what fluid/oil to put in, for now I will refill with some ATF, run it for a bit to clean it out, and then add whatever I end up going with. I am open to suggestions as to what to use, but I also haven't searched much on that topic yet.

I guess I am most concerned about the play in the input shaft, is it alright that there is some play there, I can wiggle it a little up and down.

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

Thanks Skippy. I thought about opening it up, but then that little voice crept into the back of my head and reminded me of all those other "little jobs" I didn't really need to do that turned into big headaches.

The shift bushing look surprisingly good, perhaps the only rubber parts on this car that aren't falling apart.

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

I'm sure there's a spec for it somewhere. Don't forget the other end is supported by the pilot bushing/bearing.

__________________
James Marriott
2003 Buick Regal
1983 300D (228k, frau Auto)
1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000)
www.engineeringworks.biz
1987 300SDL junker 170k
1982 300SD junker, 265k

In the case of using an ATF in synchromeshes, IMO, I do think transmission engineers have sacrificed wear for cold weather shiftability.

Do note that high-sulfur gear lubes are incompatible with the synchronizers in many manual transmissions.

You definitely have to consider the viscosity of the fluid that the transmission was designed for. The spectrum now ranges from ATF to 75W90 viscosities and therefore a synchromesh GL4 Manual Transmission Lubricant (MTL) can be any viscosity from 7.0 cSt (ATF equivalent viscosity) to a 75W90 type viscosity of approx. 14.5 cSt, and contains special friction modification additives for synchronizer assembly engagement of brass/bronze, or steel-steel materials.

Current MTL GL4 viscosites are:

1. ATF Series - Type; 6.5 to 8.5 cSt (Equivalent ATF viscosity; Note: ATF additive package is weak compared to most GL 4's)
2. Synchromesh Series -Type; 9.3 - 9.5 cSt (such as Amsoils MTF, Texaco's MTL, Pennzoil's Synchromesh, GM and Chrysler's Synchromesh)
3. 75W85 Series-Type; 9.8 to 11.5 cSt ( Redline's MTL, RP's Synchromax LT, Nissan's MTL, Honda MTL, Castrol Syntorq LT)
4. 75W90 Series-Type; 12.8 to 14.5 cSt (Amsoil's MTG, Redline's MT-90).

Since GM or Pennzoil Synchromesh (9.3 cSt) fluids are only about 2 cSt higher than ATF (7.5 cSt), I recommend trying it in trannies that spec ATF, since the GM or Pennzoil Synchromesh fluids have about three times the AW and EP additives, and are synthetic blends.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Don't know how far along you are but this sounds relevant: "If it isn't broken, don't fix it."
Good Luck and keep us updated.

__________________
92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

+1. But the presence of filings and metal bits indicate an incorrect lube choice all the same. Id be looking at least at an ATF with a GL-4 level of additization to protect the gears.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Okay, I am going to make the smart decision here and leave it alone until a real problem surfaces - probably a week or two after I get all back together .

But you guys have given me a lot to think about with the fluid/oil choice. Thanks for your help. I'll let you know what I settle on.

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman