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  #1  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:17 PM
1985 300SD
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 7
Epic Fail - K1/K2 Spring Fix

So yesterday I decided to undertake the "easy" task of changing the K1/K2 springs in my transmission. I order a kit, and decided I would jump right into the project.

I started by following the impossible-to-understand, alien-code directions included with the kit. That was my first mistake.

So, I drained the oil, dropped the pan, and then dropped the "head" of the transmission. After unscrewing about 14 bolts, the "head" dropped. I pulled it off to the side, and examined it. That's when the wind started to pick up and blow tons of debris and leaves at the "head."

I looked back at the instructions, and it said I needed to unscrew the 2 screws and separate the head into 2 parts. "This should be easy" I exclaimed. After unscrewing the 2 bolts, I proceeded to lift the top half away from the bottom half, spilling what looked like little balls onto a thin metal sheet. I knew then I was ****ed. I'm pretty sure I yelped as I looked down at the balls spilled all over, and looking into where they spilled from, I definitely knew I was ****ed. I tried to put the balls back into place, but with no diagram or knowledge of what I was doing, I struggled to keep them in place.

I then covered the "head" and ran inside and came on the forums to look for a how-to, as I have in the past. It is what inspired me to undertake such an arduous procedure, after all. I see that, hey, you don't even have to drop the "head." You can just drop the pan and replace the k1/k2 springs IN PLACE. "Wonderful!" I thought. I thanked the oil-covered instruction sheet provided.

I then had to wait for my brother in-law to come home with an impact wrench, because the screws were on so tight, they started to strip when I was using them by hand.

I replaced the k1/k2 springs very easily after that, and also replaced the b1 spring for a softer "1-2" shift.

So, I put it all back together, and took it for a spin.

Final verdict:

1-2 is definitely softer.
2-3 is a rapid, high-revving flare (revs to about 4500 RPM in about 1 second)
3-4 is now non-existant, and the car will just rev RPM's. I actually have to brake or downshift manually (via my auto transmission shifter)

I parked the car far away from sight in my yard. I am utterly disgusted with my horrible attempt at fixing such an easy problem.

I wish I had looked here before I even bothered with those instructions!

PS: I bought the kit from CT Powertrain and the kit # is K722A-D.

Any ideas on how I can remedy this problem? I am pretty sure the balls have something to do with it.

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  #2  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:29 PM
vstech's Avatar
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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I have a "head" pulled out of my 84 trans... I could carefully disassemble it, and post pics of where the balls go...
or I could send it to you.
not sure if it's any good though... I think it had no gears above 1st. but it had massive issues with clutches and pistons.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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  #3  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:33 PM
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Location: Start Louisiana
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Can't help with your problem. Just leting you know I to have days like this
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  #4  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:45 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Transmissions are scary, I will pretty much only replace a B2 piston, change the fluid/filter, and replace the modulator. Thats about it.
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'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
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  #5  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:48 PM
vstech's Avatar
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I read the dieselgiant page about transmission issues with the b2 piston... his description of needed cleanliness on the order of surgical sterilization kinda keeps me out of the auto trans... but my shop pulled apart the one in the 84, and you are welcome to it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #6  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:54 PM
1985 300SD
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I have a "head" pulled out of my 84 trans... I could carefully disassemble it, and post pics of where the balls go...
or I could send it to you.
not sure if it's any good though... I think it had no gears above 1st. but it had massive issues with clutches and pistons.
That would be super cool, but I think I am going to keep an eye out at a local junkyard for a 722.3 tranny and pull the "head" from it and replace the k1/k2/b1 springs and pop it in and hope for the best.

I really don't want this car to sit in my yard. I put quite a bit of work (and a lot of love, haha) into this car in the past 7 months.

Just sucks when you try and fix something and absolutely break it instead.

I forgot to mention, I have very little mechanical experience. My 300SD actually got me into mechanics, and I was starting to enjoy it.
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:57 PM
tbomachines's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,371
I am guessing the "head" = the valve body? I'm not sure I read it right - is your problem that you couldn't put all the little springs and balls back into place? I know I saw a 722.3 VB diagram on the interwebs somewhere....

edit: this is from w-124.org which is a pretty cool site if you own a w124...unfortunately I don't!

http://www.w-124.info/w124/722.3.pdf
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  #8  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:58 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
I've broken things on my car that disabled it before. It is not a pleasant feeling. But, cars can always be repaired!
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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2010, 10:02 PM
1985 300SD
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
I am guessing the "head" = the valve body? I'm not sure I read it right - is your problem that you couldn't put all the little springs and balls back into place? I know I saw a 722.3 VB diagram on the interwebs somewhere....

edit: this is from w-124.org which is a pretty cool site if you own a w124...unfortunately I don't!

http://www.w-124.info/w124/722.3.pdf
Great diagram! I found several others that did not even have the balls.

And yes, the "Valve body" is what I was referring to.
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2010, 06:46 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
I am at work looking at this, and "big brother" in his futile attempt to keep our computer system functioning has blocked the W124 website, so I can't see what you are looking at.

If that doesn't help, I have the 722.3xx ATSG manual and the factory manual at home that I can scan for you. I think (hope) I also have a picture of the correct placement of the balls on a computer at home.

I had the same problem when I rebuilt my valve body. Let us know how you are doing with this.
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  #11  
Old 03-12-2010, 07:10 AM
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Location: Wall, New Jersey
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RS899 "If that doesn't help, I have the 722.3xx ATSG manual and the factory manual at home that I can scan for you."

If you scan the manual, can you send it to me also, please.

jfikentsher@jerseyplanning.com

Thanks,

Joe
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2010, 10:41 AM
babymog's Avatar
Loose Cannon - No Balls
 
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Location: Northeast Indiana
Posts: 10,765
To "add insult to injury", the valve body does not need to be removed to replace the K2 spring, just the little metal plates, adds around 10minutes to a filter change.

But true, "surgical cleanliness" is important with internal AT work, it doesn't take much lint etc. to keep a valve ball from sealing completely.
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2010, 10:48 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Location: Central FL
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Uh, no I'm not going to scan the whole manual (just the offending page), but I can send you something better....
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2010, 11:15 AM
vstech's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
Uh, no I'm not going to scan the whole manual (just the offending page), but I can send you something better....
...better?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2010, 02:03 PM
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Location: Sonoma County, California
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This for the K1 but the K2 is just opposite.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/30587d1136168313-i-broke-k1-repair-kit-what-did-i-do-wrong-k1-spring-kit-help.jpg

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