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#16
03-23-2010, 09:11 PM
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__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] 
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#17
03-23-2010, 09:22 PM
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#18
03-23-2010, 09:47 PM
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Just print it and blow it up. Then mark out what is not needed... i.e. EGR system, switch over valve, etc. The emissions stuff basically.
Keep it in your file, so you can revert back if necessary or just so you know what you did, how, when, where. Purchase a MityVac as soon as you can. They are fairly inexpensive and invaluable when fixing these vehicles. I forget where I purchased mine, but it was reasonable enough even if I only had one of these vehicles. My SD used to have this issue, I fixed many things at once so it is hard to say what fixed it exactly. I replaced all my three and four way connectors under the hood as well as the small rubber vac tubing lines all over. I did have leaking HVAC vacuum pods 'whunter' pointed out to isolate to test, these are easy to replace and not too cost prohibitive. They are the three in the behind the glove box area. Another member pointed out the door lock system, early 126s from my memory did not have electric pumps like the later ones. So isolate that and just work your way through the vacuum system.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#19
03-23-2010, 10:02 PM
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#20
03-23-2010, 10:16 PM
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The rubber end stuff is what I replaced, that harder line I simply left alone. It should be around 3.5mm ID. I think I have about 50m of it around, do not ask how it happened  . If you want some, just PM me.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#21
03-24-2010, 09:22 AM
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I have the same problem.
Am I causing any damage by driving it like this, until I get a chance to get it fixed? Its my daily driver. Sure sounds terrible.
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#22
03-24-2010, 10:02 AM
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It is hard on the drivetrain, but it is not fatal to let it go a little while, IMO. I need a new modulator but have not been able to get to it yet. So when I can, I put the car into neutral just before the 3 to 2 downshift and brake to a stop. Wears the pads a little faster, but it's a tradeoff to eliminate the clunk.
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#23
03-24-2010, 11:22 AM
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Little more head way
I looked for the black vacuum line that goes to the inside cabin area, that was suppose to be hooked to the lower port on the VCV. It's no where to be found.
Do I simple squeeze another line into the opening where the other lines go through the firewall? Of course I will then connect it to the lower VCV port.
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#24
03-24-2010, 12:13 PM
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Yeah, you may even find the hole the old one went through. Hard to see/get to tho, it's under a bunch of lines at the firewall. It's just a vent that draws clean air from the cabin.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD
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#25
03-24-2010, 12:48 PM
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Answer
Quote:
 The repair is 5-10 minutes.  Plus everyone gets to showoff their car.
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