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#16
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fan pictures
The thing wont come off.
Last edited by 04 Diesel; 03-26-2010 at 10:44 PM. |
#17
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# bad link
Last edited by jt20; 03-26-2010 at 07:47 PM. |
#19
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#3 inlet port looks clean, unlikely to be a problem with the inlet valve.
Pardon my ignorance but how come you are removing the fan to take the head off? Checking the Haynes manual there is no suggestion that its necessary.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#20
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^ that is an excellent point.
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#21
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but he probably just wants more room to work.
Pulling / replacing the pins will be impeded by the shroud |
#22
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Yes, that is right. The fan will be in the way.
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#23
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Is there a way to pull the pins without the slide hammer?
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#24
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yes.
but it requires some finesse or experience. If you don't know the limits of the threads in the pin... it could be fatal. -use a hardened bolt (cap head screw) -stack washers / sockets (anything cylindrical, hollow and hard) around the head of the pin and send your chosen bolt through. - use the tightening force of the bolt to extract the pin. *****tips: gauge the depth of the threads inside the pin by tightening your bolt into it beforehand and mark the bolt when it bottoms out. only use objects that completely contact the surface around the pin so that the bolt does not become bent if your washer stack does not stay parallel with the pin. stack objects so the bolt will not bottom out too soon, but will engage the pin with at least 4 full threads / turns. go slowly, back everything out if there is any doubt whatsoever! Heat the area around the pin and freeze your bolt.... it makes a difference. Last edited by jt20; 03-26-2010 at 09:21 PM. Reason: tpyo |
#25
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Quote:
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#26
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that plastic piece comes off first
at this point I would have thought that you already removed the serpentine belt. see the large bore in the plastic piece? - put a large screwdriver (or solid rod) in it and push... .something magical will happen. |
#27
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Do I need to remove the camshaft to get the bolts under it? Take the whole camshaft off? The manual also says to remove camshaft timing gear and lower timing chain into chain box. Wont I lose timing that way? Wont the chain come off the oil pump gear if I dont keep the chain tight?
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#28
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the cam must come out to get those bolts
you can leave the cam sprocket attached to the chain if it makes you feel more comfortable, but it must be taken off the camshaft the chain will not fall off the crankshaft or the injection pump gear. There is a separate chain for the oil pump you will not lose timing if you make marks on the chain in reference to the cam sprocket, and drop the chain... but it is nice to have chain available for access |
#29
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Quote:
So the cam must come out and if I leave chain on the the gear the chain and the gear will come throught the head when I take the head off? |
#30
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yup.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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