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  #16  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:20 PM
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fan pictures

The thing wont come off.

Attached Thumbnails
1984 190D compression test-fan-004.jpg   1984 190D compression test-fan-005.jpg  

Last edited by 04 Diesel; 03-26-2010 at 10:44 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:27 PM
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# bad link
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Last edited by jt20; 03-26-2010 at 07:47 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
here.


this link may not last long, hurry up.
Gone. Nothing there.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:44 PM
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#3 inlet port looks clean, unlikely to be a problem with the inlet valve.
Pardon my ignorance but how come you are removing the fan to take the head off? Checking the Haynes manual there is no suggestion that its necessary.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:46 PM
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^ that is an excellent point.
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  #21  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:49 PM
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but he probably just wants more room to work.

Pulling / replacing the pins will be impeded by the shroud
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  #22  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
but he probably just wants more room to work.

Pulling / replacing the pins will be impeded by the shroud
Yes, that is right. The fan will be in the way.
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  #23  
Old 03-26-2010, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
but he probably just wants more room to work.

Pulling / replacing the pins will be impeded by the shroud
Is there a way to pull the pins without the slide hammer?
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  #24  
Old 03-26-2010, 09:16 PM
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yes.


but it requires some finesse or experience. If you don't know the limits of the threads in the pin... it could be fatal.


-use a hardened bolt (cap head screw)

-stack washers / sockets (anything cylindrical, hollow and hard) around the head of the pin and send your chosen bolt through.

- use the tightening force of the bolt to extract the pin.


*****tips:

gauge the depth of the threads inside the pin by tightening your bolt into it beforehand and mark the bolt when it bottoms out.

only use objects that completely contact the surface around the pin so that the bolt does not become bent if your washer stack does not stay parallel with the pin.

stack objects so the bolt will not bottom out too soon, but will engage the pin with at least 4 full threads / turns.

go slowly, back everything out if there is any doubt whatsoever!

Heat the area around the pin and freeze your bolt.... it makes a difference.
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Last edited by jt20; 03-26-2010 at 09:21 PM. Reason: tpyo
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  #25  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
yes.


but it requires some finesse or experience. If you don't know the limits of the threads in the pin... it could be fatal.


-use a hardened bolt (cap head screw)

-stack washers / sockets (anything cylindrical, hollow and hard) around the head of the pin and send your chosen bolt through.

- use the tightening force of the bolt to extract the pin.






*****tips:

gauge the depth of the threads inside the pin by tightening your bolt into it beforehand and mark the bolt when it bottoms out.

only use objects that completely contact the surface around the pin so that the bolt does not become bent if your washer stack does not stay parallel with the pin.

stack objects so the bolt will not bottom out too soon, but will engage the pin with at least 4 full threads / turns.

go slowly, back everything out if there is any doubt whatsoever!

Heat the area around the pin and freeze your bolt.... it makes a difference.
I got a bolt but what about the one that is on the plastic piece that puts tension on the belt? I am afraid that I will break the plastic.
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  #26  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:56 PM
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that plastic piece comes off first

at this point I would have thought that you already removed the serpentine belt.

see the large bore in the plastic piece? - put a large screwdriver (or solid rod) in it and push... .something magical will happen.
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  #27  
Old 03-27-2010, 11:05 AM
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Do I need to remove the camshaft to get the bolts under it? Take the whole camshaft off? The manual also says to remove camshaft timing gear and lower timing chain into chain box. Wont I lose timing that way? Wont the chain come off the oil pump gear if I dont keep the chain tight?
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  #28  
Old 03-27-2010, 11:09 AM
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the cam must come out to get those bolts

you can leave the cam sprocket attached to the chain if it makes you feel more comfortable, but it must be taken off the camshaft

the chain will not fall off the crankshaft or the injection pump gear. There is a separate chain for the oil pump

you will not lose timing if you make marks on the chain in reference to the cam sprocket, and drop the chain... but it is nice to have chain available for access
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  #29  
Old 03-27-2010, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
the cam must come out to get those bolts

you can leave the cam sprocket attached to the chain if it makes you feel more comfortable, but it must be taken off the camshaft

the chain will not fall off the crankshaft or the injection pump gear. There is a separate chain for the oil pump

you will not lose timing if you make marks on the chain in reference to the cam sprocket, and drop the chain... but it is nice to have chain available for access

So the cam must come out and if I leave chain on the the gear the chain and the gear will come throught the head when I take the head off?
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  #30  
Old 03-27-2010, 11:24 AM
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yup.

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