Any good auto supply should have some.

I agree, replace the bolt once removed. You have a Pull Your Part and also PNP I think near you. swing by and remove a couple bolts off a wreck.

I have a few in my stash of stuff I could send you for shipping. but that would take a couple days in the mail.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks for everyones help.....

Bolts came off!! Used high quality hex socket, some valve grinding compound from AutoZone which gave the socket a good bite, a breaker bar, a few taps to make sure hex socket was fully seated and to loosen things up a bit, a quick hard tug, and on about the 3rd try she broke free!!!

However, it appears that some other hard parts of the job were still to come. Getting the driver's side mount off and the new one in was a pain. That bolt near the engine to remove the mount is nearly impossible to deal with. In fact, the last person that did this job didn't even bother to put that bolt back in! I got a new bolt in there, and had to do it from underneath the car reaching up blindly and turning a hex key about 1/8 of a turn per reseating.

Now I am at the realignment stage. Holes in arms do not natuarally align. I had to push on the engine while lowering it, and now have the passenger side bolt in. Now I see the driver side bolt is still not aligned, so I guess I will lift up just slightly on the engine and pry the the other way and gently set it down again. What a pain!

The old mounts actually looked intact and not in too bad of shape, and they were not rock hard like I expected. However, they were smooshed down about 30% from the new ones, so I am still hoping this job will eliminate the nasty vibration at idle. If it doesn't happen, I will be quite disappointed.

Ok, wrapped the job up tonight, with disappointing results, the vibration at idle is no better than before. Ouch! I guess the main motor mounts were not the issue. The symptom is vibration at idle, especially when the in gear. I raised the idle speed and it did help, but it still vibrates too much when drive is engaged. Completely smooths out at higher RPMs (maybe 1200 or so, no tach, so I am guessing).

What next? I just did the valve adjustment, and they were all set nearly perfect as well and only needed minor adjustments. Some ideas of mine of things to try next, but would appreciate hearing opinons from the experts:

-I did not replace the t-shaped mount at the back of the oil pan and did not replace transmission mount. The t-shaped one I couldn't even break loose, and it was disintegrated where the bolts go through. However, the piece that the engine sits on still had some decent rubber on it. Maybe should try these next.

-Injector nozzles?

-What else could be causing a rough idle?

"-I did not replace the t-shaped mount at the back of the oil pan and did not replace transmission mount. The t-shaped one I couldn't even break loose, and it was disintegrated where the bolts go through. However, the piece that the engine sits on still had some decent rubber on it. Maybe should try these next.
"
if it's that shot... then yes, you should replace them. It's amazing what a trans mount will do, Mine came out in 2 pieces and I had a rough idle, When they put that mount in it idled perfect.. I would try replacing the mounts you couldn't get and then if that doesn't work move on to the other things

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

Hey Treiberg,

So the mounts are done good.

Replace the T mount and the transmission mount. When was the last time the fuel filters were replaced? How the is the acceleration?

Others maybe more knowledgeable, but when was the last time the valves were adjusted?

Fouled injectors.


Zill.

Valves just done, Post# 18.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

thank you Charlie

Is there a transmission mount on these 240D automatics? There must be but when I go to search the parts places they do not list one (I only see trans mounts for manual transmissions).

Also, has anybody had trouble getting that T-shaped mount near the oil pan removed. The main bolt that is facing towards the front of the car is missing its nut, and the thing is quite frozen in place. With the engine jacked up, I was hitting it pretty hard with a hammer and couldn't break it loose. Guess I need to apply more force!

Here is the automatic trans mount. Iam not familiar with the other mount.



look under All parts express in the buy tab above. 81, 240D, transmission. and click on AT transmission.

Found it. look under engine. It is called a "Anti Torque Mount"



Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Tranny mount done today, and it was not the cure for the vibration at idle either. Next step is to install new Monark nozzles and pop test to balance the injectors. I'll let you know what that does. Can't think of much else to try unless we are having some compression issues.

Timing can be off - check for chain stretch, and check injection timing. There are several threads on the injection procedure, and on replacing the timing chain. If you are smoking a bit at idle, I would check the timing.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Got my new Monark injector nozzles installed, pop tested and re-shimmed to balance the injectors, and really enjoyed doing that. Feels like more power and smoother acceleration, so pretty happy.

However, while the vibration is a bit reduced, I do not think I have found my core problem. Just to review symptom, some engine vibration at idle and in nuetral (but tolerable), much worse when I put it into gear (I shift out of drive while waiting at a light just to avoid the vibration!). Once RPMs are above 1000 or 1200 rpm things smooth out and vibration seems to go away. I see no smoke at idle or under load when driving.

I have done motor mounts, tranny mount, adjusted valves, and rebuilt the injectors with new nozzles and balanced them. By now, I expected a smooth idle!

From reading on the forum, sounds like other things to check are:
-compression (I fear this one because I know the fix is not easy!)
-injection timing
-timing chain stretch
-air getting sucked into fuel system somehow

Any one willing to wager on which of the above it is, or have any other ideas?