I just spent 540 on new rad and still have problem. But now when she gets hot i loose my heat. i pull over and give her a good reving and the heat comes back and she cools down a little bit. Going to loose my mind and my wife if I dont get this thing working right and head back to Canada....

__________________
83 300TD Sable 402K " Work Truck "
81 300SD Gray 240K " Loner Car "
04 E320 Blue 90K " My Winter rig "
07 BMW X5 4.4 118K " My Summer rig"
04 Jetta TDI Wagon 168K " Wifes "
08 Toyota FJ 109K " Wifes winter rig "
04 Jetta TDI 120K " Daughters Car "

I believe these cars have an auxiliary pump to ensure flow through the heater core when the engine is at low rpm, since the main water pump does not produce the necessary pressure at low engine speeds to drive fluid through the heater core. Sounds like yours is shot, or you had air in that section of the system from the radiator exchange. There are lots of threads on the subject and a variety of fixes besides just replacing the unit, if you determine it is bad. And, take the time to get the air out of the system.

As for the radiator, well, the only moving part of concern is the thermostat in this system, other than the water pump. The thermostat is a complicated by comparison to many others, and it is cheap. They are unreliable new. Take yours out and boil it in a pan on the stove with a thermometer and watch what happens at what temperatures. You only do the expensive things when you have data to show they are necessary. A thermostat is cheap by comparison, and a hell of a lot easier to get in and out.

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I saw in a post that its ok too drill a few small holes in the t-stat too let a little water through. Is this right? I am still going to take out the t-stat and test it, but would like to know if I should do that while its out.

__________________
83 300TD Sable 402K " Work Truck "
81 300SD Gray 240K " Loner Car "
04 E320 Blue 90K " My Winter rig "
07 BMW X5 4.4 118K " My Summer rig"
04 Jetta TDI Wagon 168K " Wifes "
08 Toyota FJ 109K " Wifes winter rig "
04 Jetta TDI 120K " Daughters Car "

Quit throwing parts at it...unless you know they are old and you can afford it.

You need to check to see if you Main fan it engaging. I forget the exact temperature but it is before 100. 100 is the next line above 80. At 105 the electric fans in front of radiator should turn on, please test that and let us know. I have dealt with this on my 1987 300TD, I can probably help!

__________________
1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head)
1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000
1981 300D - 250,000

The rad is not getting hot. Upper hose is mad hot, rad and lower hose is cool. still spitting out a little coolant from the overflow when she get above 110-115c. I put on a new coolant res cap as well. Elect fan up front is wired to stay on all the time. IE switch on the dash. How do I know if the main fan is engaging? It spins as fast as the pump pulley. I really want to thank everyone for helping. I am at the end of my rope.... Got the wife with my new born waiting at her sisters for me in Halifax to bring them back to Newfoundland. I'm a week late so far and she ready to leave me if I'm much longer.
Thanks again.
Jason

__________________
83 300TD Sable 402K " Work Truck "
81 300SD Gray 240K " Loner Car "
04 E320 Blue 90K " My Winter rig "
07 BMW X5 4.4 118K " My Summer rig"
04 Jetta TDI Wagon 168K " Wifes "
08 Toyota FJ 109K " Wifes winter rig "
04 Jetta TDI 120K " Daughters Car "

You have no circulation of coolant ... check the pump.

__________________
1987 300D 180k
1985 300SD 330k Helga
1992 300D Lola 269k- Sold
1986 325 coupe Bessie >300k Original engine(ODO Broke) sold
2006 2500HD Druamax Linda- Tows boat and looks pretty in garage thats about it

It is sort of sounding like a flow issue, perhaps being the water pump. To check the Main fan clutch do this:

The fan clutch will spin free during idle and below 85 degree. At this point you should be able to take a rolled up newspaper and stop it. After 85 degree, the clutch will begin to engage and instead of it free spinning with the turning of engine, it will engage and you will not be able to stop it.

I am actually having the same issue with my 190E 2.3...and I am mostly convinced that it is the water pump.

__________________
1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head)
1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000
1981 300D - 250,000

Will do. Waiting for her to cool down a little before i get into it.

__________________
83 300TD Sable 402K " Work Truck "
81 300SD Gray 240K " Loner Car "
04 E320 Blue 90K " My Winter rig "
07 BMW X5 4.4 118K " My Summer rig"
04 Jetta TDI Wagon 168K " Wifes "
08 Toyota FJ 109K " Wifes winter rig "
04 Jetta TDI 120K " Daughters Car "

Would the fan only help if the rad was hot? Am guessing Step one is the get a hot rad...LOL Its hard to laugh when I"m this stressed... But I'm trying : )

__________________
83 300TD Sable 402K " Work Truck "
81 300SD Gray 240K " Loner Car "
04 E320 Blue 90K " My Winter rig "
07 BMW X5 4.4 118K " My Summer rig"
04 Jetta TDI Wagon 168K " Wifes "
08 Toyota FJ 109K " Wifes winter rig "
04 Jetta TDI 120K " Daughters Car "

There should already be a little hole, and the little hole goes on the high side of the thermostat as it sits in the housing. If there is no hole, you may have the wrong item.

Given the radiator was described as stone cold with the engine running it seemed to me the fan operation was not part of the problem. Checking the hose from the engine to the radiator to see if it is hot close to the engine and then not so hot close to the radiator might confirm the problem is no flow through the hose to the radiator. In the old days you could open the radiator cap and look for flow in the radiator.

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

$540 I replaced my radiator for $170 Shipped to my house. Behr OEM radiator was a 20 min job! Some of these mechanics are out of their minds!

Have you checked the Impeller on the water pump? could it be possible that you have lost "fins" on it? This happens all the time on VW's and Audi's but they are plastic blades.... just sounds to me like you have no circulation or very little from your pump.

__________________
1987 300D 180k
1985 300SD 330k Helga
1992 300D Lola 269k- Sold
1986 325 coupe Bessie >300k Original engine(ODO Broke) sold
2006 2500HD Druamax Linda- Tows boat and looks pretty in garage thats about it