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#31
05-14-2010, 12:52 PM
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Pictures
Quote:
I am showing where the cable connects to the main body brake cable in these pictures. 
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#32
05-14-2010, 02:49 PM
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'ossum. Thanks for that. 45min at that spot and its a no go. All corroded around there and I couldnt get that pin loose. Eventually muscled the the cable out of one of its anchor points which created enough slack to unhook it.
Where does one get those sweet schematics? I would have never known that little retaining pin was there just by looking at the car. Made it to the junkyard just in time. Got a reasonable looking replacement for $100. They said it came off a 1990 model somethingorother. Part number of my old one was 1263570105B81 new part is the same without the B81 at the end. The junkyard guys pulled the part in 30 minutes without cutting but I think they did use a forklift to get under it. Don't know how they do it based on how long it took me to get it out.
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD. Last edited by angst; 05-14-2010 at 06:08 PM.
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#33
05-16-2010, 08:41 PM
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Done. At least I think so. There are no bolts left on my garage floor.
Check out the pics of the old one. It was truly one nudge away from an abrupt snap in half. Here are some notes for posterity should anyone be reading this in a thread search about to tackle the same problem. It took somewhere in the 20-24 hr neighborhood to complete. Without some of the snags I hit you might expect to take 18hr. My replacement part already had the rubber bushings in it so I did not have to mess with any of that. By comparison doing the rear springs a couple years ago took me 12hrs if that helps you scale for your abilities. The parking brake cable gave me the most trouble of everything. With the pics whunter posted of where to disconnect it you should be in good shape as long as the area isn't corroded up enough to keep you from getting to the little retaining pin. One bolt was just a hair to long to get out and was blocked by the driveshaft. I disconnected the differential to try to work around this and created a lot of work for myself trying to get the diff. to line back up again. This might potentially be avoided by NOT disconnecting the rear suspension front mount bushing. Lifting BOTH sides of the rear end off the ground symmetrically seems to be important. Initially only having one side off the ground probably contributed to not being able to get the one bolt out and it most certanly caused the trouble I had trying to get the diff. centered again. Tools you will need handy. 13mm long socket. 17mm socket 24mm socket 24mm wrench 2 jackstands minimum, 2 jacks minimum. Autozone loan-a-tool item # 27035 spring compressor.
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD.
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