I have a situation which seems a bit unique, I am putting my 1987 300SDL back together after not touching it for over a year and a half.

I have the oil pan, timing cover, and head off so I plan on installing the head first, then the timing cover, then the oil pan.

Getting the valves timed seems easy enough but I'm a bit confused about the injection pump. Everything I have read so far assumes the injection pump is somewhat close to being timed. Mine is uninstalled and unmarked.

From my manual it seems that I am to turn the engine to 15 degrees ATDC on cylinder 1.

Next I use Serrated wrench special tool (damnit!) 601 589 00 08 00 to position the locking bolt and then tighten the union nut.

Then I install the injection pump, remove the locking bolt, and this should get me close enough to fine tune it once it is running.

Sound like I've got this correct?

Any way to avoid having to use the special tool?

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

you could put it into the running position, and crank the engine I bet. I'd just hook up the motor as usual with all in time except the IP, then align the splines and rotate the IP until the marks line up for the locking pin. then pull the IP out, re set the motor to 15 and reinsert the IP.

Be mindful that the #1 piston must also be on the proper stroke.

Thanks, I missed that detail. Do you know what the proper stroke would be? I don't recall the manual specifying.

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

Compression.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

15 degrees ATDC cannot occur on the compression stroke. Power stroke would be the logical answer. (Be mindful that setting the timing via an "indirect" method isn't necessarily all that logical.)

Symantics. Your grasp of the obvious is impressive however. ;~)

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Simply make sure the valve lobes on the first cylinder are pointed generally upward when setting the bottom degree indicator on the balancer. You will find that the setting also can happen with the valve lobes pointing downward.

If that is the case one complete revolution of the engine is required. Do not mess this up. Far too many people have.

Thanks for the help.

I'll be sure to get it right, unless I make a mistake.

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

Actually if the Valve Cover is off you and your Camshaft is in properly you can just line up the Camshaft Timing marks. That should have you set at TDC (Zero degrees on the Crank Dampner). After that you only have to rotate the Engine in the direction of rotation to 15 degrees ATDC.
I believe there is someone who has the IP locking Pin for rent.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I see the splined socket for rent but no locking pin. They aren't the same tool are they?

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

No.

You can get by without the spline tool to rotate the pump,wrap a piece of rag around the shaft several turns before you use pliers to rotate the pump shaft so you do not damage the splines,be careful.the lock tool would be good to have but if you must do without it remove the plug where the tool would fit in and look in the hole as you turn the pump,you will see what looks about like the tip of a straight blade screwdriver when the pump is in the correct position to install.This should be exactly centered in the opening when the pump is installed,just doing it carefully by eye will get the engine close enough to run.Of course the timing should be checked accuratly before you really get to drive the car .The lock tool is not expensive and easy to use and it holds that tip exactly centered which is very helpful as it usually takes some wiggling around to get the spline to slide in. Don

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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

The only splined socket I can remember is the one to remove the delivery valve holders.

You are right I did not see any IP Lock Pins. I thought that someone had them for rent. For some reason they are calling the Rear Axle Pin Wrenches Lock Ring Sockets. Maybe that is what confused me.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yeah,
There is a "Special Tool" for that purpose.
There's a picture of it in some Deutsch Tool Catalog.
It looks EXACTLY like a Miniature Vacuum for the Dealer to use on your wallet.

I've used a Rubber Strap Wrench from the ChiCom tool store.
A Cheap Wooden Dowel Rod of a soft wood,
1/4 inch diameter cut into 3 or 4 one inch long sections,
scotch taped Longitudinally around the Splined I.P. shaft to further protect it.
Place the Rubber Strap Wrench around the "Doweled" Shaft and "Turn" the shaft.

(I use the Larger Rubber Strap Wrench to counter-hold the W.P/Fan [Viscous] Hub during R+R)

I'd get one of the spring loaded I.P. lock Tools.
(gsxr cautions us about using ANY lock tool other than the Factory one!)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128