Who else is tired of dealing with bad connections on the old-fashioned European fuses ? Aren't they a pain, or is it just me...
- e.g. even after cleaning all the fixed and spring terminals carefully with #00 steel wool, blowing it all out, and smearing a bit of dielectric grease on them and ends of fuses... I still OFTEN find various accessories not working, and--- after un-screwing the fuse-panel knobs and painstakingly maneuvering the cover off, usually find no blown fuses. So i lightly twist them back-and-forth, and---okay, now they work ! I've been searching for a source for in-line mini-ATC fuse holders.
These fuses are the type used on most newer vehicles.
They're like standard automotive fuses but smaller ( just 7/16th" across ) and pointy-bottom lugs.
Is there a "COMPACT" fuse-holder that can be soldered in place of the old fuse ?
It must be under 7/8" long, not over 7/16" wide, and - for the original cover to fit, up to 7/8" tall ( if the wires come out the side, not the bottom ) ....or, any height, if the original cover is not used. -then the new fuse-holders should have their own individual caps.
Considering the miniATC fuse SIZE, and the SPACE available for the old Euro-fuses, am I being unreasonable ?
PICO and WAYTEK make individual inline mini-fuse holders - seems like they are too big to fit... ?
Also, most other inline fuse holders cost AT LEAST a few bucks a pop ! My '84 300D takes 18 in the panel.
Ladies & gentlemen- IDEAS ?

Use the original Copper fuses, not that cheapo aluminium crap they sell at Wal-Mart!

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

I agree with all of this. Ive toyed with just wiring all the fuses to a new block over on the driver side inner fender. I even went so far as to buy a number of random fuse blocks in a yard for this purpose. Would be great to have a blade style fuse and modernize that entire part of the car.

I was going to make a junction panel where the stock fuse block is and just run the wires further forward, but other projects have derailed that plan.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Alistair is on the right track concerning fuse problems, copper fuses are good. The connections in the base of the fuse block to the wires is also a problem. they go loose over time.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

http://www.streetsideauto.com/productlist.asp?ParentID=35&SubID=1772&ptid=3464&brand=DHDT&utm_source=google+PPC&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=painless%20wiring%20fuse%20block&utm_campaign=Painless+Wiring&mkwid=saXzIX9yN|pcrid|4854193837

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I've never had any issues on any of our cars. I replace them all when I buy a car. I've had maybe 3 fuse failures in 7 years....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

on my sd, i added a 4 fuse panel under the dash, and ran a line off the starter terminal block. added radio always on line, cig always on line, and have two spare spots with standard fuses in each circuit.

Problems with your execution


1. Di-Electric Grease WILL NOT CONDUCT ELECTRICITY.
2.YOU WANT the Smoothest Metal in/on the Spring(y) "Fuse Holders"
(I.E. ROUGH Abrasives are not the thing to use when cleaning the fuse holders.)
( I use Bronze Wool[Fine, as opposed to medium or coarse].It "Polishes"
the Fuse Holders and will not leave particles or RUST)
(No, NOT Steel Wool!)


Lastly "Google" Stabilant22

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Ounce stocked with good quality Fuses; keeping the stock Fuse Block in working order has to be easier than installing another Fuse Block.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I've not had any problems either. Did the early cars come with copper fuses? All of mine are aluminum. Some of them are a bit crusty, but they cleaned up easily.

-Jason

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

yup. copper best. copper on porcelain bodies NOT PLASTIC is very best. fastlane has them at the buy parts above.
the FIRST thing you need to do when getting a car is get all the aluminum fuses out of the car! don't wait until something is not working, just replace them all.
the aluminum fuses are great for what they are made for. A TEMPORARY fuse repair when you are stranded. to be replaced as soon as you have access to the copper fuses.

I use the white metal or Copper. The reason for the mix is when I go to the junk Yard I get a bunch of Fuses of either type; so I over 100 Fuses to scrounge through.
If I have a problem due to the white metal Fuses; I just have to deal with it.
I do not use any of the Plastic bodied Fuses.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel