So I've been "testing" the egr on on this 1983 240D. In Oregon, we do not have to actually go through DEQ, so having the egr set up correctly doesn't necessarily matter. If you look at the picture, I've blocked off every line that doesn't seem to be necessary according to the diagram. I know that I don't need all of those plugs, but they help me keep track of what I'm blocking off.

I drove the car around, and it seems to be running really well. My question, is what if I removed every line that I've blocked off at this point up to the booster? I'll be removing a couple of 3-ways which would mean there is(potentially) more vacuum going to the transmission. Is that the case? I don't want to have to adjust the modulator because I've inadvertently added more vacuum. From what it looks like, I really only need to route those two lines directly into the valve. This would also mean I can get rid of the 5/6-way plug.

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Diagrams of what I plan to remove.

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The line that goes to the orifice, #63 can be rerouted directly to the vacuum control valve............it doesn't need to go to the plug on the valve cover and be switched.

That's a California setup and the switching of the vacuum to the trans never made any sense to me.

This car doesn't have a bowden cable, so I thought I still needed that line to go to the 3/2 valve. Right now, there is not leak in that area, so I have no need to bypass it anyways. Can I remove the other lines without any adverse affects?

Yep, the other lines control the EGR. The transmission should be unaffected by that change.

yeah, it's not possible to add more vacuum, unless you bypass the restriction for the transmission. you could connect that restriction feed directly to the main vacuum line and not affect it.

Good to know. I'm just happy to remove most of the unused vacuum hoses and 3-ways.

Removing the EGR is a waste if the throttle is still intact on the intake.

Please explain what you mean by this.

From what I understand, since I've removed all of the vacuum lines going to the EGR, it has no way of opening up. This means it stays closed at all times, and is "disconnected" from the system.

I'm absolutely baffled as to what the vacuum valve(transmission) does on top of the valve cover.

When I purchased this car, it was shifting erratically. After fixing the vacuum leaks, it shifts amazingly. If you barely press the throttle, it will shift up quickly. But if you put the peddle to the metal it will hold each gear longer, so that when it reaches 4th it is around the 39-42 mph range. This seems to be working exactly as it should.

This is where I'm a bit confused. I understand that the Vacuum Control Valve actually controls how the transmission shifts(in the 240d at least). So what is being switched by the vacuum valve on top of the valve cover? I've messed with the valve to see how it affects the vacuum. When you pull on the throttle, the little flipper depresses in, and the vacuum is increased. How does this affect the vacuum control valve then? It seems like the green damper would negate any increase in vacuum.

I hope this makes sense, and I'm not just babbling.

There is a throttle body under the air filter designed to restrict the engine's airflow so it will suck more exhaust through the EGR. Killing the EGR won't have much benefit for power or economy if the throttle is still strangling the engine.

The damper is just a damper, it doesn't really do anything but slow down the sucking pulses from the pump.

The throttle plate in the intake is connected to your accelerator linkage. It will open up further as you press the pedal if everything is working properly...

Or you can pull the plate out pretty easily and ditch that linkage too since you're going for a 'clean' setup. I pulled it when I had the whole intake off, I can't recall how difficult it would be with it on the car.

Simpler would be better...

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05 E320 CDI
99 SL500
02 530i

82 240D SOLD
83 240D Euro 4spd SOLD
86 300D Euro Auto SOLD

Thanks for the replies. I'm used to working on gassers, so some of this is new territory for me.

So you are saying I can remove the throttle plate and the linkage? I would want the throttle to be completely open all of the time right? In a gas engine, this would be like setting it at full throttle at all times because it would be sucking in all of the air. But since diesels use fuel delivery to regulate the engine, I can let as much air in as I want. Right?

Thanks for schooling me guys. I really appreciate it.

Here is what a friend did on his 82 240D.
You need to seal off the sides when you remove the butterfly.

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83 SD

84 CD

So blocking those off costs $.20

Did he use something like jb weld to attach those dimes? Thanks for the pictures by the way.