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  #31  
Old 05-25-2010, 02:05 PM
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Don't forget about the DIY articles

Quote:
Originally Posted by thayer View Post
ok, can someone give me a step by step on removing the half shaft from the differential? or at the hub? I need to seperate the arm from axle.
I know that you've been helped and you now know the answer BUT don't forget about the DIY articles

For axles see

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearAxles

(Look for "resources" in the top right hand corner of this page and select DIY articles)

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  #32  
Old 05-25-2010, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I know that you've been helped and you now know the answer BUT don't forget about the DIY articles

For axles see

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearAxles

(Look for "resources" in the top right hand corner of this page and select DIY articles)

I feel the shame

I got caught up in my own problem. I usually find exactly what I need with searching.
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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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  #33  
Old 05-25-2010, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thayer View Post
ok, can someone give me a step by step on removing the half shaft from the differential? or at the hub? I need to seperate the arm from axle.
I've heard (but not done myself) its easy at the hub -- remove the bolt in the middle of the hub and tap the halfshaft spline out with a drift. It won't quite have enough clearance to go all the way out I'm told, but you can drop or maybe just loosen the diff. Unless you want the diff or shaft, I wouldn't dig into the diff to disconnect it from that end.
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  #34  
Old 05-25-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thayer View Post
I feel the shame

I got caught up in my own problem. I usually find exactly what I need with searching.

Don`t feel bad, we have all been there. sometimes can`t see the forest for the trees.

Charlie
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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  #35  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:51 AM
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I think the main reason multiple arms are failing now is because I just scrapped a good pair in March
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  #36  
Old 05-26-2010, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4_Welder View Post
I think the main reason multiple arms are failing now is because I just scrapped a good pair in March

DOH!

PATBOB, What do you mean by "unless you want them" Will pulling the half shaft out that way destroy the diff? I know the shaft is heald by a C Clip (according to the 1985 300d DIY Wiki).

I think I get it now, you mean at the PNP, not on my car.

My goal at this point is to replace as little as possible, so I'm with you there. Yeah, I just want to pull the arm, not anything else if I can help it. Its not that I'm cheap, its just that I don't want to replace used working parts with more used working parts, unless it provides an easier process.
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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Last edited by thayer; 05-26-2010 at 08:45 AM. Reason: Further thought took place.
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  #37  
Old 05-26-2010, 11:02 AM
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Shame? - No shame!

Anyway... for the removal of the axle from the differential the DIY says to use curved circlip pliers. If you don't have any I found thread some strong wire through the little hole on the ring worked well.

The DIY says to use the wire for putting the clip back in (so you can find it if it pings out) but I found it worked well for the removal as well.

Don't forget to cover up the differential after you've finished working - I did do this but over night a strong wind blew away my plastic bag and then filled the diff up with sand for me. I ended up striping and cleaning the whole thing out... mishaps like this tend to add a delay to the repair! (Still I put in two new diff seals whilst I was there)
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  #38  
Old 06-04-2010, 09:51 PM
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well...we got a full subframe from the pull a part. they were kind enough to fork lift it onto our truck. all the boots ripped in this little adventure. So we will be using only the trailing arm and purchasing a new half shaft.

There was a US reman halfshaft at Oreilly's but it ended up being about 2 inches too short. So now I just need to source a new/reman halfshaft.
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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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  #39  
Old 06-05-2010, 11:23 AM
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If the boots weren't torn before this, and the joints don't feel excessively loose, you should be able to disassemble clean and install new boots for far less than the cost of new axles.
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  #40  
Old 06-05-2010, 03:07 PM
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Agreed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4_Welder View Post
If the boots weren't torn before this, and the joints don't feel excessively loose, you should be able to disassemble clean and install new boots for far less than the cost of new axles.
Agreed - they say (the experts here) that an original axle with new boots is way better than anything that is cheap and new.

Take a look at these threads I've collected

Axle Boot threads

Has Anyone Used: Doorman Uni-Fit CV Boot Air Tool

W123 axle R&R job--some questions?

Happy (speed) reading!
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  #41  
Old 06-05-2010, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4_Welder View Post
If the boots weren't torn before this, and the joints don't feel excessively loose, you should be able to disassemble clean and install new boots for far less than the cost of new axles.
You read my mind. The axles from the P&P are tight as wax (well, nice and tight) and I don't mind going down the rebooting road. They ordered another axle, we will see if this one fits. If it does, I'll use the new one....if it doesn't then I'll reboot.

Thanks again for all the help.
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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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  #42  
Old 06-17-2010, 08:13 AM
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Should be the final update for this thread. We finally got an axle that would fit. The third try at Oreilly's got us a 500sel axle that fits perfect. Trailing arm from pick and pull. New diff oil, adjusted parking brake (did I mention that now my parking brake works) new plastics on the anti sway bar, replaced the rubber mounts for the exhaust.

Car rides like brand new.

One mile, test drive, get back, key won't turn.

I keep shaking, no dice.

My friend tries, no dice. tries too hard. key breaks off in ignition

I both love and hate this car.

drilled out ignition, running on buddies junked wagon key tumbler.

But I'm on the road and it drives like a brand new car.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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