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#1
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DOH! PATBOB, What do you mean by "unless you want them" Will pulling the half shaft out that way destroy the diff? I know the shaft is heald by a C Clip (according to the 1985 300d DIY Wiki). I think I get it now, you mean at the PNP, not on my car. My goal at this point is to replace as little as possible, so I'm with you there. Yeah, I just want to pull the arm, not anything else if I can help it. Its not that I'm cheap, its just that I don't want to replace used working parts with more used working parts, unless it provides an easier process.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg Last edited by thayer; 05-26-2010 at 08:45 AM. Reason: Further thought took place. |
#2
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Shame? - No shame!
Anyway... for the removal of the axle from the differential the DIY says to use curved circlip pliers. If you don't have any I found thread some strong wire through the little hole on the ring worked well. The DIY says to use the wire for putting the clip back in (so you can find it if it pings out) but I found it worked well for the removal as well. Don't forget to cover up the differential after you've finished working - I did do this but over night a strong wind blew away my plastic bag and then filled the diff up with sand for me. I ended up striping and cleaning the whole thing out... mishaps like this tend to add a delay to the repair! (Still I put in two new diff seals whilst I was there) |
#3
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well...we got a full subframe from the pull a part. they were kind enough to fork lift it onto our truck. all the boots ripped in this little adventure. So we will be using only the trailing arm and purchasing a new half shaft.
There was a US reman halfshaft at Oreilly's but it ended up being about 2 inches too short. So now I just need to source a new/reman halfshaft.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#4
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If the boots weren't torn before this, and the joints don't feel excessively loose, you should be able to disassemble clean and install new boots for far less than the cost of new axles.
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#5
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Agreed!
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Take a look at these threads I've collected Axle Boot threads Has Anyone Used: Doorman Uni-Fit CV Boot Air Tool W123 axle R&R job--some questions? Happy (speed) reading! |
#6
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Thanks again for all the help.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#7
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Should be the final update for this thread. We finally got an axle that would fit. The third try at Oreilly's got us a 500sel axle that fits perfect. Trailing arm from pick and pull. New diff oil, adjusted parking brake (did I mention that now my parking brake works) new plastics on the anti sway bar, replaced the rubber mounts for the exhaust.
Car rides like brand new. One mile, test drive, get back, key won't turn. I keep shaking, no dice. My friend tries, no dice. tries too hard. key breaks off in ignition I both love and hate this car. drilled out ignition, running on buddies junked wagon key tumbler. But I'm on the road and it drives like a brand new car.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
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