IT FELL OFF! :) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

winmutt · #16 05-24-2010, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

I'll be in Atlanta, GA

ORLY?

charmalu · #17 05-24-2010, 11:24 PM

This is two reciently and maybe 3 in the past year or so. I think one guy had the shock drop out the bottom. WOW this was a close one!!!

I just replaced all my rear bushings, isn`t all that bad a job. only if you want it to be. I droped the whole sub frame assy., but I removed the diff and axles first thinking it would reduce weight.'
next time at home the whole thing is coming down with 3 jacks.

Disconnect the driveline at the diff., leave the disc on the diff.

Disconnect the park brake cables at the connection under the car, then they slide out of the grommets on each side and where the one side clamps to the floor.

Unbolt the calipers and hang on the sway bar.

place a jack under the Diff and one under each trailing arm.

remove the shocks.

unbolt the diff mount

As you lower it down some, the springs will fall out.

Unbolt the sub frame bolts

then lower down the assembly.

the trailing arm I believe is a 24mm bolt (2) on each side.

I suppose you could lower down the side that is damaged only, but I haven`t done it. maybe some one that has will chime in.

when you get the parts at the junk yard, try to locate one with low milage, this way you will get newer rear bearings. the W126 will also fit the W123. there is a chart that shows the cross reference. I think it was $42 for each trailing arm with the hub when I pulled mine.

This would be a good time to replace your bushings, but all depends on time and if this is your only car.

Iam doing this from memory, might be another step or two in there.

Charlie

layback40 · #18 05-25-2010, 03:22 AM

Dont try & weld arms like that. If it has failed there, its only going to fail again & again. Chances are that the internal surfaces are not painted, when moisture /salt gets in, bingo you have corrosion & failure.

DeliveryValve · #19 05-25-2010, 03:47 AM

^^^ I concur. Once rusted inside like that, I would have no doubt it will crack at another spot. Better to replace it with a unit that is not rusted.

.

pawoSD · #20 05-25-2010, 06:50 AM

Yikes....hopefully none of ours have anything like that happen!

thayer · #21 05-25-2010, 07:09 AM

So we got the car up on its side(one jack), the wheel off ect and the friend I've got working on it with me says that he wants to disconnect the halfshaft from the diff. From charlie's post it looks like we don't have to do that. From what I can read, we should essentially lower the entire rear "assembly" meaning:

Hub - Trailing Arm/Halfshaft - Diff - halfshaft/trailing arm - Hub

Once thats done we should be able to replace the trailing arm without disconnecting any of the axles.

Do I have this correct?

daw_two · #22 05-25-2010, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thayer

So we got the car up on its side(one jack), the wheel off ect and the friend I've got working on it with me says that he wants to disconnect the halfshaft from the diff. From charlie's post it looks like we don't have to do that. From what I can read, we should essentially lower the entire rear "assembly" meaning:

Hub - Trailing Arm/Halfshaft - Diff - halfshaft/trailing arm - Hub

Once thats done we should be able to replace the trailing arm without disconnecting any of the axles.

Do I have this correct?

Essentially, yes, you do have it correct. You have to remove the SWAY bar. As Charlie has said, the "easy" way is to remove the entire rear "assembly". I just did this, TWICE, within the past 3 months. Too bad you aren't near me, I could help. Maybe some pics will help. I had the car up in the air, then used the hydraulic floor jack to "lower" the rear assembly. The following is a repost of two previous posts.

Post #1:
mhin1956 and I spent all morning and half the afternoon. We performed the following:

Removed the rear suspension on the silver car --- he needed a driver's side trailing arm for his 300SD. Undo shocks at top with the car down. Raise car up and use jack under the springs --- undo bottom of shock. Undo the rear swap bar. Take wheels off. Drive axles out. Place jack under the pumpkin. Undo rear mount of pumpkin (rearend). We were lucky the driveshaft was already disconnected. Then undo the two small bolts and the one BIG bolt that holds the leading edge of the rear suspension in place. When I got the first small bolt out the water started pouring out, so much that I put the bolt back in while mhin1956 finished removing the bolts on his side (downhill from me). Lower pumpkin, axles, and rear suspension all in one piece.

We then removed the trailing arms. Then while the pumpkin was draining, we played with a different project of mine. Came back removed the axles from the pumpkin. Removed the front wheels. The silver car is ready to go to the scrapyard on Monday. We were done about 11ish. It really helps to have a moveable "lift" --- I love playing with the forklift.

Post #2:
All for a battery cable.
How many folks have done something really strange for a battery cable?

Yesterday, I was looking at the negative battery cable on Ben. I was thinking, you know, it really should be replaced since it's going to be an "eyesore" under the hood. Of course, I looked at two GREAT ones on Saturday --- one on both of these gassers. So, Sunday, after the Mother's Day festivities, I decided to venture to the parts car to retrieve a battery cable.

While driving to the shop.....I have a GASPING thought. What's the rearend on the blue car? Upon arriving at the shop, I inspect the blue car's rearend to find 2.47 --- can't let that go to the scrapyard with the price of gasoline rising 7cents overnight. I decided to pull it. Heck, if I'm going to that trouble, I might as well drop the rear suspension frame and grab the trailing arms, too.

So, I get the blue car up in the air --- these trailing arms look WEIRD. OH....they are aluminum.

So, now, I have the following unclaimed parts for sale:

4 bundts with center caps and lug bolts
a matched set (driver and passenger side) of aluminum trailing arms
one 2.47 rearend pumpkin.
one steel passenger side trailing arm

Please let me know your interest.

thayer · #23 05-25-2010, 07:35 AM

forklifts are so handy.

That pic does help a great deal. I doubt that the pick and pull would let us get that deep into a car on their lot. too much liability. I'll still call and ask. Tenn and GA are both a rather far drive for a part. There is another guy around here who has a backyard full of w126's. I'm going to give him a call too in order to procure the trailing arm.

Alastair · #24 05-25-2010, 07:39 AM

Hmm...

I would be most interested in finding What Model has ally Trailing-Arms and a 2.47 diff!

BTW, Where do you find the ratio, or code marked on the diff?

Very frightning to see trailing-arm failures like this, Gonna go check mine later before car goes anywhere....

--Big 'Ammer at thr ready!

charmalu · #25 05-25-2010, 10:05 AM

When you look at that picture, it all really is a simple set up.
there are only the 4 13mm bolts that bolt the Diff mount to the body
the shocks. 2 17mm on the bottom side of the arms, and the 17 mm at the top behind the rear seat.
then the 2 17mm and the long 22 or 24mm sub frame bolts.

when I removed mine from PNP. I saw the car a couple days before. a 85 300CD. went back to get the arms, and lucky me, some one else removed the axles, driveline, and parking brakes and shocks. Did most of the work for me.

so I dropped the 2:88 Diff., 4 13mm bolts and the 4 19mm bolts on the Diff studs. placed carpet under it and let it drop to the ground.

then the sub frame with the arms I was able to lower it by hand one side at a time w/o much trouble after the Sub frame bolts were removed.
then slid it out from under the car and removed the arms. Didn`t weigh all that much.
think the car had 218k, so that diff and arms are under my 85 with 361k.

Charlie

charmalu · #26 05-25-2010, 10:11 AM

Here is a chart with the cross ref on the trailing arms W123 and W126

Replacement Trailing Arm

Charlie

mhin1956 · #27 05-25-2010, 10:21 AM

I was the "one" that had the shock mount rust out on the trailing arm. Started w/ kinda a groan, then pulling into garage at work heard a clunk. Driving home on interstate was kinda like driving a noisy waterbed. NO fun. Parts car had BOTH rear arms starting to rust around shock area on arms.
If you're under your car for any reason; probably should check rear arms! Lowrider bouncing benz's aren't fun to drive!

thayer · #28 05-25-2010, 11:14 AM

ok, can someone give me a step by step on removing the half shaft from the differential? or at the hub? I need to seperate the arm from axle.

daw_two · #29 05-25-2010, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thayer

ok, can someone give me a step by step on removing the half shaft from the differential? or at the hub? I need to seperate the arm from axle.

Three easy steps:

Drain the differential fluid --- MAKE SURE YOU can get the FILL (top) plug out before removing the DRAIN (bottom) plug.
Then remove all the bolts from the back side that hold the cover onto the differential.
Then look at the inside (end) where the axle comes into the differential. There is a C clip there....remove it and the axle will slide right out of the differential.

OOPS --- Charlie is correct. I forgot to tell you how to remove the OTHER end of the axle from the hub. Well....I guess I just covered the differential end of the axle.

charmalu · #30 05-25-2010, 01:49 PM

Be sure to place a jack under the Differential to hold it.
Loosen the 4 13mm that hold the mount to the body.
then loosen the 8 15mm that hold the cover on.

the 2 top bolts are hard to get to, so lowering the diff makes it easier to reach them.

remove the bolt in the center of the hub, 13mm. it holds the axle to the hub.

if you have the Annular axles, just unbolt the 6 bolts on the differential end, push towards the hub drop it down and slide it out. The piece in the Diff can stay in w/o removing it.

I had a surprise at PNP one time. I pulled the back cover, and someone didn`t do their job. All the oil in it spilled out, got me to moving pretty quick.

Charlie