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#1
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How do I remove the instrument cluster on a 190D (w201)?
The question says it all
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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection. |
#2
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No one has a w201 here?
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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection. |
#3
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probably involves making some custom instrument cluster removal tools..
I.E. coat hangers with a strategic bend at the end... then fish them up in between the crack of the dash hump and top of the cluster body and find the clips.... then pull out ... Never did it with a 201 but on the w123 I know that I have to push some spedo cable slack up so it will come out easier and disconnect the oil pressure feed line as well as the other connections. do a search for other info. |
#4
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I ca pull it out about an inch or so but I think the speedo cable is holding it from behind. How do I release the speedo cable? I tried accessing it from below but it's impossible as there's to much stuff down there.
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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection. |
#5
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You're supposed to disconnect the cable from below. Don't ask me how though - I tried removing my cluster once (there's dust in it & I wanted to clean it) and I eventually gave up.
In case you don't have a copy, the service manual says: The instrument cluster is held in place by means of five spring clips located on instrument panel. 1 Remove cover under instrument panel, left. 2 Remove hose (arrow) toward lefthand lateral nozzle from below. 3 Unscrew tachometer shaft on instrument cluster from below. 4 Push out instrument cluster from the rear. 5 Disconnect electrical connections and line for oil pressure gauge, remove instrument cluster. If you figure out how to remove it, let me know! ![]()
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![]() 1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD ![]() |
#6
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Quote:
![]() Thanks for the info. I don't have the service manual.
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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection. |
#7
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How I did it
I have an '88 190D. My approach was to remove the panel under the steering column. A nudge from behind was enough to get things moving and I was able to pull from the front. I removed the speedometer cable and a couple of large electrical connectors and the whole thing swung out.
The main difficulty I remember was disconnecting the speedo cable. I have read suggestions to disconnect at the tranny and feed slack through the firewall so that you can get a little room to get your hand in. When you put it back in, that's the only way I could reconnect the speedometer cable. I don't remember any issues with the tach. Here's a couple photos from my removal effort: |
#8
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Assuming this is very similar to my 124, which I just battled. I used the hooks from MB ... not that expensive and easy to get from the dealership. Go underneath in the footwell behind the brakes and gently unclip the speedo cable (I had to pull back the carpet to access it) ... pull up the cable very GENTLY from the floor so it will have a little bit of give when you pop that cluster. Then go to work on the hooks ... you have to pull ... there are five clips holding it in (on the 124 at least) and they REALLY hold it. I found at way after the fact that I actually broke off two of them pulling it out. Once it comes out of the clips, pull it out a tiny bit, then go back down to the cable in the footwell and gently pull it up from the floor for a little more give ... then pull the cluster out gently until you can cram your hand in there and unscrew the speedo cable. Gently is the key word. Patience is needed, and you may massacre your forearm doing this. Once the cable is unhooked, you have way more play and can get the rest of the connections off. When you go to put it back in, look for the five clips ... if one is missing, REPLACE IT. I didn't (not realizing they were missing) and the cluster would NOT go back in flush with the vents beside it, plus it wobbled in there. Once I replaced the clips, it popped right back in tight and pretty.
Some of this may not be identical to the 201, but I'm pretty sure it's very similar.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#9
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I removed the instrument cluster. Now I think that whoever projected it should be shot on sight. It is plain retarded. There's very very little play from the speedo cable.
First I took a large flat screwdriver. Inserted it from one of the sides and pulled the cluster. It does sort of pop off. Then did the same thing from the other side. Then started pulling. I started gently, but then understood this would not be gentle at all. Pulled hard. Damn that speedo cable is strong. Made enough space to fit my hand behind the cluster. I have small hands, but large fore arms. Some wisea** from mercedes thought it would be cool to put some "teeth" like saw "teeth" on the side of the cluster. Needless to say I've got bruises all over my hand. So ... I happily stuck my hand behind the cluster, while with the other hand was pulling the cluster pretty hard. Reached for the speedo cable but it was impossible to unscrew it. Reached for my slip joint pliers and for about 15 min I tried to fit them behind the cluster to unscrew the speedo cable. Finally got a good grip and unscrew it. Changed the bulbs I wanted to change, wjhile breaking all the old ones. Putting back the instrument cluster was a breeze. Until I had to screw back the speedo cable. Yes you guessed it. For those who didn't guess it, I couldn't screw it. I couldn't pull it to reach the cluster. Now I don't have a speedo. I guess my speed by checking the tachometer. When I have the time, I'll got to a mechanic friend of mine, release the speedo cable from the gearbox, pull it, screw it on the cluster, then screw back the speedo cable on the gear box. Quite an easy job, isn't it ![]()
__________________
1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection. |
#10
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I find it easier to undo the lower panels and once you expose the under side, you can actually look up from the floor well and see the lower half of the instrument cluster where the idiot lights are. Use finger to push from within and it pops out easier.
Its easier than pulling or so I find. I do not have the proper merc tool and my clothe hanger are too flimsy. Thanks
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1992 200E M102 102.963 AKA Silver Old Grumpy Always hope I can freeze someone with the aircon- Just change the compressor again, Subseal leaked with a psssssssss sound. Its the NON-3 Pointed star items on my car that cost more to repair.$%^&%%*^& |
#11
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I tried that but there was no way I could stick my hand in there. There were steel pipes, vent pipes, and a net of wires in there. After I removed the instrument cluster I saw that there was no way I could reach the back of the cluster from underneath, not on my car anyway.
__________________
1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection. |
#12
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I had a lot of problems trying to use coat hanger pullers and pushing it out from underneath. For me it's way easier and quicker to pull out the dash speaker and push the cluster out from above.
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1987 300D - Frybrid - sold 1985 300SD |
#13
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I''ve done the 190 cluster several times. Remove the left-side vent first, work through the vent opening to R&R the speedo cable.
Be careful to NOT break the panel around the courtesy-light switch when removing the vent assembly.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#14
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I removed the speedo cable from the trans
This discussion has been very helpful as I just had to do this today (broken odometer). I disconnected the speedo cable from the transmission and started the cluster out by pushing form underneath, then pulled it out. Not too bad, lots to disconnect and whoever commented on the sharp teeth in there was right on the money!
I would definitely reccommend removing the cable at the trans, although I haven't tried to put it back in yet. two questions - 1)Does the cable just bolt back into the tranny, and should I lubricate the cable with something when I have it out? 2) Any insight on the size bulbs used for general dash illumination or a number? Thanks George |
#15
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Perhaps, but I still side with the simple 3-minute left-side vent removal method, keeps you out from beneath the car also.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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